Startup on Stonescape mini pebble pool/spa

[Enzman]

My pool builder is telling me that we won't be putting any chlorine in the pool for about 2 weeks? He says that it will bleach the heck out of the pebble? I went with a black stonescape mini pebble. He's saying not to turn the salt generator on etc? Is this smart? My pool will be green in 2 weeks no?


Pool is getting acid washed tomorrow then filled with water. This is a brand new pool.

 

[HermanTX]

See the TFP startup guideline. You can use LC. He is right - do not start SWCG or add salt at this time, do not use the heater and do not run a pool cleaner. Also, did you download the startup guideline for your specific plaster?

Start-up New Plaster

The first few months are the most criticle for a newly plastered pool. We're here to share best practices to ensure the plaster will last for many years.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[txreap]

I also had a pebble aggregate surface (NPT) this past weekend. Do we add liquid chlorine immediately?

 

[HermanTX]

I also had a pebble aggregate surface (NPT) this past weekend. Do we add liquid chlorine immediately?

Did you find the start up guidelines for your specific plaster? If so follow that. You can also refer to the TFP Start Up guideline. See post # 2 above.
Did the PB add a startup dose of sequestrant when the pool is full? Then you need to do a full test of your water and then start to balance all. While most likely you will need LC I would not just randomly add it until you have a baseline of a test. Also, did you measure your pool volume when it was being filled? Ensure that is accurate in the Pool Math app to enable proper doses of whatever chemicals need to be added.

 

[txreap]

I did find the instructions and hired local NPC certified company to manage the startup for 1 month for $500.l ( 3 days/wk). Sequestrant did not ship as expected, so I canceled order. Local company will add Butech (sp?) and something to bring calcium up to 200 min from 130. In addition to the Butech and reading up on sequestrants, I am less concerned about metals as my pool is 20+ years old and has been drained and refilled several times without me having any knowledge of sequestrants. So I am probably fine as have never had a staining issue on the original white plaster.

 

[Enzman]

Currently my ta is 110 and my ph is 8.2. He isn't planning on adding any chemicals until the weekend. This can't be right?

 

[HermanTX]

Currently my ta is 110 and my ph is 8.2. He isn't planning on adding any chemicals until the weekend. This can't be right?

The concern is pH and if they add MA then that will drop that and also drop TA as well.
I went onto the NPT (Stonescape) website and it references to the NPC (National Plasters Council) for start up. I copied the info below where it gives specific info on pH and TA as well as Calcium.

1st Day​

**NEVER add water to chemicals! Always add chemicals to water prior to adding them to the pool. A 5-gallon bucket is great for pre-diluting chemicals.**

1. Test fill water for pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness, and metals. Record your results.
2. High Alkalinity should be adjusted to 80 ppm using pre-diluted Muriatic Acid (31% - 33% Hydrochloric Acid). Always pre-dulite the acid by adding it to a five gallon (19 L) bucket of pool water.
3. Low alkalinity should be adjusted to 80 ppm using sodium bicarbonate (baking soda).
4. pH should be reduced to between 7.2 and 7.6 by adding pre-diluted Muriatic Acid if the alkalinity is already 80-100 ppm.
5. Brush the entire pool surface, from the top of the walls down, starting at the shallow-end and ending at the deep-end. Brush thoroughly twice per day to remove all plaster dust. Brushing your pool finish at least twice a day is one of the best things you can do to maintain the gorgeous appearance of a pool finish. Remember, wheeled devices should not be used in the pool until after 28 days.
6. Although optional, it is highly recommended to pre-dilute and add a quality sequestering agent using the recommended initial start-up dosage and then the recommended maintenance dosage per the sequestering agent’s manufacturer. This is cheap insurance against metal staining.
7. Operate filtration system continuously for a minimum of 72 hours.
8. DO NOT add chlorine for 48 hours. DO NOT turn on pool heater until there is no plaster dust in the pool.

2nd Day​

1. Test pH, Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness and repeat steps of 1st day except for step 6.
2. Once the alkalinity is adjusted to 70 ppm and the pH is adjusted to 7.2 to 7.6, then adjust calcium hardness levels to a minimum of 150 ppm. (CAUTION: Adjustments requiring more than 20 lb. of CaCl^2 should be pre-diluted and added in 10lb increments – morning and afternoon.)
3. Brush the entire pool surface thoroughly at least twice daily to remove all plaster dust. Again, routine brushing is critical to a long-lasting, beautiful pool finish.

3rd Day​

1. Test pH, Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness and repeat 1st day, Steps 1 through 5.
2. Pre-diluted chlorine may now be added to achieve 1.5 to 3 ppm. No Salt should be added for 28 days.
3. Brush the entire pool surface thoroughly at least twice daily to remove all plaster dust.

4th through 28th Day​

1. Test pH, Carbonate Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness and repeat 1st day, Steps 1 through 5, for the first 14 days. Carbonate or Corrected Alkalinity is Total Alkalinity – 1/3 Cyanuric Acid Reading.
2. After the 4th Day, calcium levels should be adjusted slowly over the 28-day period not to exceed 200 ppm.
3. After the 4th day, adjust cyanuric acid levels to 30 to 50 ppm based on the primary sanitizer of the pool (pre-dissolve and add through the skimmer).
4. On the 7th day, if there is any plaster dust remaining – remove it using a brush pool vacuum.