Sta-Rite SR200 AGS Replaced, but AGS LED still lights

[kbailey]

I cannot get my heater to light. This heater has ran fine in the past.

I have replaced the AGS switch and the Thermistor because the AGS LED was on and the water temp reading was not correct.

After replacing the AGS and Thermistor when I turn on the heater the temp looks correct. The heating light flashes for several seconds and I hear the blower running. I do not hear the heater actually light though and then the Service Heater light comes on and the AGS LED lights up.

What troubleshooting steps should I take now.

 

[JamesW]

Check in the metal box where the Fenwal ignition control module is to see if there is any damage or signs of mice.

Check the wiring going to the AGS switch to make sure that it's not chewed through.

If the wires and AGS switch are confirmed to be good, the problem is likely to be a bad circuit board.

 

[kbailey]

All of the wiring looks good. Any other suggestions before I purchase a new circuit board? The circuit board is pretty expensive. Any suggestions for getting the best price for a circuit board?

 

[JamesW]

Check the AGS with a multimeter. It should read as cosed (0 ohms) before the heater starts. If it reads as open, it's bad.

You can try taking the wires off of the AGS and connecting them together. This will simulate a closed AGS. Then, turn off the gas at the gas valve and start the heater. If the AGS LED still comes on that would indicate that the board is not reading the AGS circuit correctly. You want the gas off so that the heater doesn't actually light.

Since the heater is not actually firing right now, the AGS should be closed and the AGS LED should not be on.

The AGS LED should only be coming on if the water is getting too hot, which should not be happening if the heater is not actually firing.

 

[kbailey]

I replaced the board with a 42002-0007. I connected the 9 pin connector to the 6 pin connector leaving 1 hole to the left side of the connector and 2 holes to the right. When I power it on, the number 128 appears for a second or two and then I see r14. Nothing else happens. Can someone help me get this new board working?

 

[JamesW]

Pentair Control Board Kit Basic - 42002-0007S replaced by 461105 - INYOPools.com

"Your Source for Swimming Pool & Spa Parts With 40,000 Parts in Stock - INYOpools.com"

www.inyopools.com

Connect the 9 pin ribbon cable to the 6 pin circuit board starting with the bottom pin (closest to the yellow button) and leaving the top 3 holes open.

If you label the pins 1 through 9 starting with the bottom pin, connecting the following briefly activates the following:

1+2...Spa On
1+3...Pool On
1+4...Off
1+5...Temp Down
1+6...Temp Up
1+7...Aux 2
1+8...Aux 1
1+9...Filter Pump

Briefly connecting the pins as indicated activates the function as indicated and is what happens when you press a button on the membrane pad.

If you had functions AUX 1, AUX 2 or Filter Pump, you won't have those functions anymore.

Did you have those functions?

 

[kbailey]

Ok, I have it connected as you described. I am seeing the same results. I believe the r14 is the revision of the board. When pushing the buttons for pool on or off neither work. There are no LEDs lights on the board that are lit. The display is just off/blank. The blower motor does not spin or anything.

 

[JamesW]

Is the ribbon cable oriented correctly?

Press the Temp up button. If the cable is backwards, it will activate Spa On.

R14 is the software revision number, which should also be printed on the CPU as shown in the picture.

 

[kbailey]

I believe I have in oriented correctly. The clip to close the connector is on the same side of the board as the yellow button.

 

[kbailey]

I don't recall ever seeing or using AUX 1, AUX 2 or Filter Pump. The filter pump for the pool is running and had always been used the flow water through the system and is not connected to the heater in any electrical way. The only buttons I have ever used are the two up down, pool on and pool off.

 

[JamesW]

Shorting the first two pins briefly is the same as pressing the Spa On button.

Maybe a bad membrane pad or not connected correctly.

 

[kbailey]

I will try jumping the pins. Is it possible that the pad has to be replaced with one that matches the new board? The pad does work with the old board.

 

[JamesW]

The old pad should work.

Make sure that it's not reversed.

The 9 pin female connector from the membrane pad should start with the male pin closest to the yellow button, which will leave 3 female holes open.

Do you have a picture of the membrane pad?

There's voltage on pin 1 (closest to the yellow button).

When the voltage returns on one of the other pins, the corresponding function is activated.

Pressing a button just connects pin 1 to one of the other pins while the button is pressed.

 

[kbailey]

Is was able to get the heater to run by jumping the pins.

 

[JamesW]

Try reversing the connector.

If that doesn't work, maybe it's a bad membrane pad.

If you can measure the resistance between the female holes, the first two should show as closed when you press the Spa On button.

This connects pin 1 to pin 2.

 

[kbailey]

The key pad is still not working though.

 

[kbailey]

By reversing, do you mean to flip the connector so that the white mark on the ribbon is on the other side?

 

[JamesW]

Yes.

 

[kbailey]

Before doing that I went ahead and reinstalled the old board. When I powered it on this time it just showed pool on and a temperature. I was able to adjust the temp up via the pad to get the heating light lit and the heater ignighted. I am not sure what changed, but it is back together as I started with other than replacing the thermistor and AGS early on in this journey.

 

[kbailey]

Thanks for all of your help. I now know a lot more about my heater. I am still a little concerned that it is working now with the old board.