Southeastern Oklahoma pool closing

pypeke

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Silver Supporter
Jul 31, 2015
291
Southeastern Oklahoma
Hi, all!

I live in southeastern Oklahoma where normally winters are not too bad. However, several years ago, an ice storm shut us down for 3 weeks (0°F) with no electricity. So, I need to close the pool every year because it may or may not get below freezing here. We have a high water table and high moisture in our soil so we never lower the pool water before closing.

Our inground pool is on a slope with one side against the soil and 8 ft from our house. The other 3 sides are covered with a concrete and rock wall. The local pool company sometimes blow out our lines, but I have no idea how they do it. Sometimes, the guy lets gravity drain the pipes. I know they use a gizmo in the skimmer and screw on plugs on the 3 returns, and I know they do not drain any pool water. I have no idea how they drain the lines, and I want to do it myself this year.


Here is what I know: Thanks to TFP.

1. Close the pool when water is 60°F and pH is 7.4-7.6. Then balance TA, bring to shock level, pass the overnight FC test, let chlorine levels go down to halfway normal. Remove any debris and backwash and rinse the sand filter. Remove the metal ladder. Once pool is closed, put the pump plugs and filter plugs in the pump basket. Disconnect unions and take o-rings inside the house and put inside a ziplock bag after lubing them.

2. Because our pipes and 3-way valve are at the same level as the bottom drain, gravity will drain the skimmer line once the gizmo is installed. The 3-way valve gets turned to fully open the skimmer (and fully close the bottom drain). Gravity drains the skimmer pipe because we disconnect the union on the 3-way valve.

3. We disconnect the unions by the pump so the pipes on the top of the deck will drain by gravity.

4. Once we install the screw on return plugs (using Teflon tape), gravity drains the return pipes through the red ball valve.


Here is what I don't know:

1. Gravity doesn't work for the main drain pipe. About 6 ft of the main drain pipe is above ground so it could easily freeze since there is no way to plug up the main drain in order to drain the line. I assume I need to blow air in the line, then quickly close the main drain at the 3-way valve. (Like a straw with a finger on a straw.) Where do I connect the air compressor to blow out the line?

2. Since gravity is draining the 3 return pipes and the 1 skimmer pipe, do we still need to blow those lines? Since we leave the valve open, we don't add RV antifreeze. Should we close them and add antifreeze? Not sure how we could unless we poured antifreeze in the pipes on top of the deck near the pump.

3. What connectors do I need to attach the air compressor?

Thanks for any suggestions.



as of 2018.jpg
 
Please bee a little more specific in the elevation of the piping from the skimmers and returns vs. your equipment pad. A general idea would be fine, not as specific as what I have indicated below.


My skimmer/return lines run down to the ground (at the bottom of the wall) and then run back to the equipment pad. If the pad is at 163.1 (ASL), the pool patio is at 163.30 (ASL), then clearly the skimmer lines would be at 160.00 (ASL), around there. ASL is (Above Sea Level) and this was taken off my "As Built Survey". So naturally, my plumbing is higher and water would drain towards the pool, not away.

In your case, your plumbing, if water was to drain away from the pool, the pump would have to be lower and you could open the valves or the unions and water would just naturally be removed, or at least most of the water without having to clear the lines.

The main drain is usually 8' lower, maybe 7' feet and as you stated would not drain.


Here is what I don't know:

1. Gravity doesn't work for the main drain pipe. About 6 ft of the main drain pipe is above ground so it could easily freeze since there is no way to plug up the main drain in order to drain the line. I assume I need to blow air in the line, then quickly close the main drain at the 3-way valve. (Like a straw with a finger on a straw.) Where do I connect the air compressor to blow out the line?

The air compressor can be hooked up to an NPT fitting at the pump with an air compressor. See post # 1 in my thread.

The concept of closing an in ground swimming pool


2. Since gravity is draining the 3 return pipes and the 1 skimmer pipe, do we still need to blow those lines? Since we leave the valve open, we don't add RV antifreeze. Should we close them and add antifreeze? Not sure how we could unless we poured antifreeze in the pipes on top of the deck near the pump.

If gravity drains the water, then you do not need to clear the lines. Water will move at 1/8" slope and be completely gone in an hour or so is you plugged the skimmer and return lines properly. This means that you will have to remove something at the pad, or even the drain plugs or unions so water can trickle out.

3. What connectors do I need to attach the air compressor?

The air compressor is hooked up to an NPT filling at the pump basket. You will need to isolate the return side with either the MPV or a black winter plug so air will only travel to the suction side. Once you clear the main drain, use the shut off valve to trap air.
 
as of 2018 b.jpg

Catanzaro, thank you. As to the elevations, the pipes come out from the wall about 6 ft, then run vertically about 6 ft, then run horizontally for about 20 ft, then up about 2 ft to the pump. The pump is about 8 ft higher than the 3 way valve and main drain down below.

So it is good to know that I have no reason to blow out lines or use anti-freeze. Gravity is working on everything but the main drain.


That leaves me with the 6 ft of main drain pipe that could freeze because that pipe has water inside it. Even when the pump was down below with the rest of the plumbing, that 6 ft section was exposed and had water in it in the winter. Twice the lake flooded which caused us to move the pump up on the deck. Pumps are expensive to replace. Plus we got tired of going up and down the stairs and walking 60 ft to turn the pump on and off.

That main drain pipe has been like this since the pool company built the pool...maybe 20 years ago. I don't know why it has never frozen and burst, but it is probably only a matter of time.


Should we put some kind of heat wrap tape on the 6 ft main drain pipe that runs parallel to the ground and plug it in? I am thinking the kind that protects plumbing under mobile homes.

Thank you again.
 
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