South Alabama build - conclusion

Pool bottom and liner went in yesterday, first time I’ve ever watched this process but looks good to me! He had me shut off the water and vacuums when it got a few inches deep in the shallow end, they’ll be back tomorrow to shift as needed. Electrician should also be along tomorrow to finish the pad and wire up the light controller and outlet for the robot.

Digging the Latham Reef liner too.
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Got a full pool now.

Electricians started yesterday but did not get finished, should finish today (if they can source the breakers they need, apparently supply is short around here). They did wire my Superflo pump to the Intermatic timer (unnecessary) and wired the SWCG direct to power (should be "ok" because of the flow switch but I had asked that it be on the timer) so they'll switch those today also. PB is here cutting the vinyl out of all the various openings for return jets, skimmer and wall jets. Assume all that's left really is wait for the electricians to get finished and then start 'er up.

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Your pool is looking great! Congratulations! All your research and due diligence is certainly going to pay off. Looking at your yard before the build started, I'm sure you'll have amazing landscaping to complete your oasis. You definitely have me thinking more about the pool bonding issue though. I'm not sure if most of your concerns are dealing more with the framing for your liner, as we are doing a shotcrete pool. I guess the rebar in the shotcrete shell eliminate the need for the grid under your pavers? I do see a copper wire that goes around the perimeter of the pool, but they haven't explained to me how this works. Everything is still open waiting for the inspection. I think I have a little time to ask the builder the physics concerning the bonding. I'm looking forward to your finished project. The liner is a beautiful color, btw.
 
Your pool is looking great! Congratulations! All your research and due diligence is certainly going to pay off. Looking at your yard before the build started, I'm sure you'll have amazing landscaping to complete your oasis.

Thank you! Regarding the landscaping, I'm very torn on my fence situation. Just on the other side of those hedges on the right side of the yard is a wire fence that will not satisfy code. The current plan is to place a 6' wood privacy fence just on the inside of that hedge row (technically those hedges are on my property, but in discussing the fence idea with the neighbor we both felt we'd rather leave the hedges instead of taking them out - I'd lose a few feet of yard but the hedges will help with noise insulation I think, and keep the neighbor kids from climbing my new fence etc), but the appeal of the backyard might be reduced with a giant slab of privacy fence compared to the natural border we have now. So I assume if we do that, we'd then be looking to plant even more plants on the inside of the fence, although I wouldn't shoot for a solid hedge row.

You definitely have me thinking more about the pool bonding issue though. I'm not sure if most of your concerns are dealing more with the framing for your liner, as we are doing a shotcrete pool. I guess the rebar in the shotcrete shell eliminate the need for the grid under your pavers? I do see a copper wire that goes around the perimeter of the pool, but they haven't explained to me how this works. Everything is still open waiting for the inspection. I think I have a little time to ask the builder the physics concerning the bonding. I'm looking forward to your finished project. The liner is a beautiful color, btw.

To my knowledge the rebar in your shell will not eliminate the need for the bond grid or bond wire ring, in the comparison between our pools your shell = my liner track as those are both the conductive parts of the pool structure itself. It does sound like your builder installed the bonding wire around the pool just like mine did. That meets code most places, but you'll find many who feel the grid is a better solution (and it makes sense that it must be better by nature of more surface area, not sure it can be measured just how much better). I'm planning to spend a little more money to lay out a second ring instead of a full grid, sort of meeting in the middle. That bonding ring of yours will be left where it is and will be underneath your decking (either concrete or pavers). I still don't really get how it works, other than it makes the decking "equal" to the pump, the pool, and any metal touching the pool should there be some voltage introduced to any of the above.
 
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These guys are sneaky, not sure when they came and did this but walked around the side of the house today and we have a water bond. PB was by for just a few minutes yesterday taking a few additional measurements for the liner, I’m hopeful that meant it was “on the assembly line” or at least very close.

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Might be failing our electrical inspection, inspector said the water bond "had to be accessible" so he wants to see it in some kind of recessed box like you would see for a sprinkler system valve/controller. That's boggling to me since his usual water bond is the copper wire attached to a ladder anchor which is embedded in concrete, how exactly is that "accessible?" Will see what the PB comes up with.
 
Got a full pool now.

Electricians started yesterday but did not get finished, should finish today (if they can source the breakers they need, apparently supply is short around here). They did wire my Superflo pump to the Intermatic timer (unnecessary) and wired the SWCG direct to power (should be "ok" because of the flow switch but I had asked that it be on the timer) so they'll switch those today also. PB is here cutting the vinyl out of all the various openings for return jets, skimmer and wall jets. Assume all that's left really is wait for the electricians to get finished and then start 'er up.

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I may have missed it, but what color is this liner? Beautiful!
 

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Thank you! Regarding the landscaping, I'm very torn on my fence situation. Just on the other side of those hedges on the right side of the yard is a wire fence that will not satisfy code. The current plan is to place a 6' wood privacy fence just on the inside of that hedge row (technically those hedges are on my property, but in discussing the fence idea with the neighbor we both felt we'd rather leave the hedges instead of taking them out - I'd lose a few feet of yard but the hedges will help with noise insulation I think, and keep the neighbor kids from climbing my new fence etc), but the appeal of the backyard might be reduced with a giant slab of privacy fence compared to the natural border we have now. So I assume if we do that, we'd then be looking to plant even more plants on the inside of the fence, although I wouldn't shoot for a solid hedge row.
I felt the same way when we took out our old fence and (scraggly) hedges and replaced it with a 6 foot white privacy fence, but I LOVE the privacy, like the look now that we're used to it, and we are slowly planting stuff in front of the fence to bring back the green. If you really love the hedges, you could do a black metal fence that would meet code and still give you that green feel. But again, we LOVE the privacy of our 6 foot (and then a bit - we created a little berm that actually makes the top of the fence more like 7 feet above the pool level).
 
So the builder added a return on the shelf, which seemed like a good idea to me but it’s awfully close to the water surface. As we haven’t been swimming yet I didn’t think much of it, but while brushing today I stirred up the water enough that the wave action was causing it to become exposed constantly, which while likely no functional problem just strikes me as odd and annoying.

I’m not even sure what can be done at this point. I surely don’t want to look at a liner patch if he were to relocate this return. But being that the decking is still unfinished (not to be done by the PB), I’m wondering if I should ask him/pay him to split off this return and put it on its own valve. Currently, all three returns are on a single valve from the pump/filter. At least that way I could shut it off when we are actively swimming and turn it back on for general circulation/skimming?

Any other thoughts or ideas?

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I’m not even sure what can be done at this point. I surely don’t want to look at a liner patch if he were to relocate this return
You can relocate it and just install a plug in this return if you were to go that route. You’ll still see it, and it will be a forever reminder, but seeing the plug will be better than looking at a patch in a brand new liner.

Also, the current water level looks low so the problem may fix itself when you raise the water to regular level for the summer.
 
Also, the current water level looks low so the problem may fix itself when you raise the water to regular level for the summer.
It does appear that way in the picture, but the water is 6” below the liner track and is already higher than halfway up the skimmer. On top of that, the level is only about 1.5” below the overflow (closer to 1” if I were to remove the vinyl “dam” the builder left in place) so I don’t believe I can raise the level much higher than it is now. Or if were to raise it an inch, then the same wave action may instead lead to excessive lost water through the overflow.

I’m not in love with the idea of looking at a plug either, but along those lines would there be any harm in plugging that end and not relocating the return at all? Rather not end up there if it can be avoided but just curious if there would be any adverse affects of just blocking that outlet with no other plumbing changes.

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And speaking of the overflow, should there be some sort of grate over it? I've already had to pick a number of leaves out of there behind the vinyl flap, though I'm honestly unsure yet if they're coming from the pool or from the completely open other end (waiting to be plumbed into a french drain when the landscaping is finished). I imagine I'd want some kind of grate over the opening to prevent leaves and other from flowing into the pipe and creating a blockage, which would be especially prevalent in a heavy storm when the overflow is actually needed.
 
It does appear that way in the picture, but the water is 6” below the liner track and is already higher than halfway up the skimmer
Rats !!! I was hoping. Lol.
I’m not in love with the idea of looking at a plug either, but along those lines would there be any harm in plugging that end and not relocating the return at all?
you can abandon it and plug it with no issues besides seeing it. When they built my pool they put in a port for a future pressure/suction cleaner that we didn’t use. It sat with a plug in it with no ill effect other than every kid that swam in the pool liked to touch it. (Still no ill effect, just kids being kids)
And speaking of the overflow, should there be some sort of grate over it?
This is a *grate*question and I’m thinking the same thing you are. I’m interested to see what those who have them think. Both my skimmers would completely clog/ dam up after big storms so I can only imagine it would have a similar result.
 
If the plumbing is still accessible, I'd put the return on it's own valve. As you said, then you can turn it on/off as you like. But then again, I like valves on everything!

Andrew
 
What about buying a new return fitting, cutting the existing plumbing and capping it. You could cut and cap it 4 inches upstream of the existing fitting and nobody will ever be able to tell from the pool. Then run the stub from the pump to your new fitting and put it wherever you want it.
 
And speaking of the overflow, should there be some sort of grate over it? I've already had to pick a number of leaves out of there behind the vinyl flap, though I'm honestly unsure yet if they're coming from the pool or from the completely open other end (waiting to be plumbed into a french drain when the landscaping is finished). I imagine I'd want some kind of grate over the opening to prevent leaves and other from flowing into the pipe and creating a blockage, which would be especially prevalent in a heavy storm when the overflow is actually needed.

Something like this: Amazon.com : Hayward SP1026 Vinyl/Fiberglass Inlet Fittings for Pools, Spas and Hot Tubs : Swimming Pool Maintenance Kits : Garden & Outdoor
 
Thanks, I had seen that and thought it would help for sure and at least look better than the open hole. I do still think those gaps would allow some leaves and such through, but definitely not as many!

I had one other idea on the return, I currently have it directed almost horizontal, if I pivot the eyeball down 30-45 degrees that might buy me another 1/2" or so, I'll see what that does when I stir up the water with the brush again. But either way I'll probably have the builder come by and see if he can offer any other alternatives, at a minimum quote me to split it off and put it on its own valve, and on the extreme end capping it either at the pool with a plug or in the ground leaving it as a "fake" return and relocating.
 

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