solar plumbing repair

[Mr Glenn]

So I bought this house with solar heating for the pool. The valves diverting the water to the various pipes in the solar setup have started leaking. It seems like the leaks are at the fitting joints (the blue glue seems to be cracked and failing). So my question (looking at the pictures posted) do I simply make a few cuts along the pipe and replace the parts? Do I need the black 3-port diverter? Any advice on how I should go about repairing the leak? It looks like a should probably replace the connectors to the copper pipes as well? Thanks for any help.

 

[ajw22]

The blue is PVC primer and not glue. PVC primer can be blue or clear. Blue is used to indicate to inspectors that the joints have been properly primed and glued.

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Solar Pool Heaters - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

A Solar Diverter Valve is different then a standard 3-way diverter valve. A Solar Diverter Valve has a drain hole that allows the solar panels to drain down from the supply side of the panels, which can be important (depending on how your system is configured) when the valve is closed. The "hole" is actually a small check valve in the diverter




Only Compool, now Pentair makes proper Solar Diverter Valves.

• 263047 - 3-Way Solar Valve with Drain-Down, CPVC 2 in. (2½ in. slip outside)
• 263057 - 3-Way Solar Valve with Drain-Down, CPVC 2½ in. (3 in. slip outside)

These valves are included in the Pentair Solar Touch and Sun Touch control systems.

 

[Mr Glenn]

Thank you AJw22 for correcting my descriptions. So based off what you stated, the valve I am having trouble with is a standard 3-way diverter valve.
What type of fittings/couplers are those that connect the copper pipes from the solar panels to the pvc near this diverter called? I am trying to figure out what I need to buy to repair this job properly. Thanks

 

[Dirk]

Is your array higher or lower than the pool?

Either way, consider automating your solar heating system. A manual valve is a pretty inefficient way to heat a pool, especially if you have a one-speed pump. A solar heating controller will monitor both the temperature of the water and the temperature of the available heat on the solar array and determine when to automatically turn on and off the pump and when to open and close the solar diverter valve.

For example, my pump comes on in the morning and my solar diverter may or may not engage my array, depending on the morning temps. Sometimes the pool is being heated right away, other times it's later in the morning. Then, when the pool reaches my preferred temp, the array is disengaged and the pump ramps down, saving on energy costs.

It's even sensitive enough to pause solar heating when a cloud passes over and the array wouldn't be adding any heat to the pool.

More to the point, I don't have to think about my solar heater. It comes on as soon as it can, and it shut off when the pool is warm enough. The rest of the time I'm saving on electricity. When coupled with a variable-speed pump, the energy efficiency is even greater.

We can point you to some solar automation if you're interested.

 

[Mr Glenn]

Thanks Dirk. I think I started this whole thread out incorrectly when I mis-spoke on the valve that was leaking. I do have a automated setup. I have this Sun Touch Control system and this actuator that opens up when the temp hits a certain number (located near the pump and filter).
I read through some PVC repair links that ajw22 suggested and I am going to slather glue onto the joints to see if that will seal the holes before I start cutting through pipe.

 

[Ahultin]

Looks like the lasco 26424 is a pressure rated compression adapter to go from 1.5 copper to 1.5 mip, you'd then need a 1.5 fip to 2" slip fitting to connect to your 2" pvc.

1-1/2" PVC Compression Male Adapter | U.S. Plastic Corp.

These fittings are for joining schedule 40, schedule 80 plastic, iron, steel, and copper pipe to each other. Since the cap and body are r...

www.usplastic.com

 

[ajw22]

I read through some PVC repair links that ajw22 suggested and I am going to slather glue onto the joints to see if that will seal the holes before I start cutting through pipe.

This Snap Fitting may be a better way of fixing the leak depending on exactly where it is...

Pool Service Products | Catalog

Pool Service Products, based In Orlando, Florida, is a wholesale distributor serving the swimming pool professional. We specialize in tools, hard to find parts and much more.

www.toolsforpools.com

 

[Dirk]

I do have a automated setup.

Ah, I see. What threw me was the pic you posted of a three-way valve near your array, which doesn't have an actuator. I thought that was a manual solar valve.

I'm not actually sure what is the best way to get from copper to PVC. I'd be tempted to sweat a slip to female copper adapter onto the copper, then thread PVC into that. But maybe there is a more reliable way. What I'm seeing in your pic is that copper to PVC joint has been leaking, probably on and off for years. It looks to be stressed, too, as in not everything aligned well. Maybe that's just the camera lens. This guy:


I would also tend to avoid glue tricks and/or short cut patchers or anything with an o-ring or a gasket. Especially out in the sun. Just my preference. Maybe they'd work just fine. But I'd prefer to cut out a leaking fitting and replace it, and glue it in properly, whenever possible. My worry would be a future failure, which, depending on where it is in your plumbing schematic, and how long it would be before being spotted, would be happy to drain out your entire pool and/or fry your pump trying to.

DIRDIO is my MO (do it right, do it once).

 

[Mr Glenn]

Looks like the lasco 26424 is a pressure rated compression adapter to go from 1.5 copper to 1.5 mip, you'd then need a 1.5 fip to 2" slip fitting to connect to your 2" pvc.

1-1/2" PVC Compression Male Adapter | U.S. Plastic Corp.

These fittings are for joining schedule 40, schedule 80 plastic, iron, steel, and copper pipe to each other. Since the cap and body are r...

www.usplastic.com

Thank you for the information. If the glue slathering doesn't work then I will move onto DIRDIO and re-do the whole leaky area.

 

[Mr Glenn]

Is it ok to use Sharkbite fittings for this type of application?
I was thinking this Sharkbite fitting and then connect this fitting to the thread end, and then use this reducer to attach to the 2 inch pipe
And then install the new three-port diverter . Any thoughts on this setup? Can I use just regular pvc connections? or should I use cpvc?
Also, I was thinking I would build some simple shade/covering for that small little area to protect the whole setup from the Sun.

 

[Ahultin]

Is it ok to use Sharkbite fittings for this type of application?
I was thinking this Sharkbite fitting and then connect this fitting to the thread end, and then use this reducer to attach to the 2 inch pipe
And then install the new three-port diverter . Any thoughts on this setup? Can I use just regular pvc connections? or should I use cpvc?
Also, I was thinking I would build some simple shade/covering for that small little area to protect the whole setup from the Sun.

The sharkbite says it's rated to 200psi so it should work but, as you don't want to use a metal male with plastic female, i would use this one SharkBite 1-1/2 Inch FNPT Adapter, Push to Connect Brass Plumbing Fitting, PEX Pipe, Copper, CPVC, PE-RT, HDPE, UXL114140F Amazon.com

 

[Dirk]

Yes! Male PVC into female metal, never the other way around.

Sharkbites utilize an o-ring, which I don't like. But it should be fine, other than that. But you rattled off quite a list of parts. If you need to get from 1.5" copper to 2" PVC, then you only need two parts. These two together (no o-rings!) would be about 12 bucks total, if you could find them local without shipping. (Look for a plumbing supply store near you, not a big-box.)

1-1/2" x 2" Sch 40 PVC Reducing Male Adapter - Mipt x Soc 436-213

Buy 1-1/2" x 2" Sch 40 PVC Reducing Male Adapter today! This adapter offers an easy installation with little hassle. Call today or order online!

www.pvcfittingsonline.com

Nibco 1-1/2" NOM C x 1-1/2" FNPT Copper Adapter 903 11/2 | Zoro

Order Nibco 1-1/2" NOM C x 1-1/2" FNPT Copper Adapter, 903 11/2 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

If you don't want to sweat copper, then the cost goes up, inversely proportional to the reliability...

 

[Dirk]

There are Sharkbites that go from 1.5" copper to 2" PVC (no other reducers or CPVC needed), but you have to get the right Sharkbite ends for each pipe type.

Again, not a fan of this technology, but they sure are easy. Full disclosure, I have Sharkbites connecting my water softener to existing copper stub-outs. I didn't want to solder copper stubs coming out of my sheetrock wall, because I couldn't see what they were connected to inside the wall. Sometimes Sharkbites are worth their o-rings. I can justify their use when they are viewable. I would never use a Sharkbite, for any reason, inside a wall.

Here's an example, if you can find the right size.

PVC Transition Couplings: Push-to-Connect Pipe Couplings

Used to transition from schedule 40, 80 or 120 PVC pipe to PEX, copper, CPVC, PE-RT or HDPE pipe without needing any special tools or glue.

www.sharkbite.com

 

[Mr Glenn]

Wow, great info here. I don't really have the tools to sweat copper pipe. So I like the idea that since I can see the Sharkbite fittings then i will know if they fail on me. So I will give the ones with the female threads a try with that male adapter.
But I also found these: sharkbite 1.5 to 2 inch coupler that seems to be all in 1.
So I will order both and then send back what I don't decide on. I like where this is headed. Thanks for the input.
Update on the glue slathering: the glue slowed down the leak to a drip drip. So I am ok with that until I can get the time to take this project on.

 

[Dirk]

I just learned this myself, researching the info I provided. You need to make sure each side of the Sharkbite is compatible with the pipe to which it will affix. They're not all the same. A Sharkbite that is made to go on to copper will not work with a PVC pipe of the same size, because they are slightly different diameters. They're color coded, so you know which is which. Research this a bit to make sure you get the right Sharkbite part for your application. They make them for transitions, so you'll need a Sharkbite with one side for copper and the other side for PVC, in the correct pipe size. Hopefully, they'll make one that you need, so you don't have to use more than one part.

FYI: after proving my concern about glue tricks, be aware: a "drip drip" can total to a very large amount of gallons per day. It's deceptive, and way more than you might think. Prioritize the fix.

 

[Mr Glenn]

Hi Everyone,
I originally posted this thread: solar plumbing repair
and got some good suggestions. I ended up completing those repairs durning the winter.
Pictures below. We will see how it holds up once I turn on the solar here in a few weeks. but my new question is this:
The new black 3-way valve has 3 positions. I am not sure which way I should have that turned to.
Can someone help me determine which way to position this valve for proper flow of solar heater panels (to the left) and the pool pipes (to the right)?
My pump and filter are around the corner of these fittings to the right.
Thanks,
Glenn

 

[ajw22]

Really, you need a Solar controller. Otherwise, you are going to be the mechanical Turk.

Send the water to the solar panels when the solar panel temperature exceeds the pool temperature.

Turn off the solar panels when the solar panels are less than the pool water temperature.

Turn off the solar panels most nights or the panels will work as a cooler.

Solar panels are not very efficient if you just set it and forget it.

Solar Pool Heaters - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Mr Glenn]

There is a solar automated valve (controller) at the pump that turns the flow on and off based on temp. this black valve is doing what? That is what I am trying to understand and then set it in the correct position. I attached images of my solar controller and valve. I have also attached a photo of what the old valve looked liked before I removed it.

 

[ajw22]

SunTouch® Control System

SunTouch Control System is the easy way to keep your pool and spa clean, comfortable, and ready to enjoy. With the touch of a few buttons, you can quickly program your pool and spa filtration and heating cycles to fit your schedule.

www.pentair.com

https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/pentair-pool/residential/automation/suntouch/manual/suntouch-control-system-manual-english.pdf

https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/pentair-pool/pool-manuals/suntouch/SunTouch_Quick_Reference_Guide_English.pdf

The actuator on top of the diverter valve should be controlled by the SunTouch controller and send water to your solar panels when the panel temperature is greater than the pool temperature.

I thought this valve switched water between your solar panels and your pool.

Post a full picture of all of your pool equipment plumbing so we can understand your setup.

 

[Mr Glenn]

So around one corner of my pool I have the solar array that water runs through and then those pipes run around the corner to my pump and then into my pool. I recently added a salt cell and my pool is saltwater now.