Skimmer and Light Niche replacement since liner is being replaced

[Bill1974]

I'm having a liner replaced and also changing the coping out so that pavers can used. The rest of the paver and concrete decking around the pool will be replaced next year. It's not in the budget this year to do everything, and I know it will look messed up with the coping pavers being higher than the rest of the paver and concrete decking around it.

Since the line is being replaced, I figured to replace the light niche (conduit is broke off the back and it's been fixed a few times already). Since the skimmers are on the same side and as the light niche I figured what better time to put new ones in too (i like to create projects for myself, i'm not doing the liner or paver work, i know my limits).

1. Is there anything I need to be careful about when replacing the skimmers?
2. Backfilling: I have read numerous ways to backfill, my understanding is 89 gravel/stone or coarse sand would be appropriate to back fill with. I have about 2 feet working width to work within, there are 2 feet of pavers between the aluminum pool coping and concrete decking. I'll also be replacing the flex piping in this area with sch 40 pvc. If the digging goes easy I'll go all the way to the pump, otherwise that will have to wait till next year.
3. I am guessing if i have time to also replace the return ports and some of the flex pipe if possible and replace the remaining flex next year. Anything to be aware of when doing this.
4. Any recommendation of how to treat rust on the steel walls since it will be exposed around the skimmers, niche and return ports? I assume scrap, wire brush and a rust converter and primers? any recommendation on the rust converter? and primer?

 

[Bill1974]

I'm having a liner replaced and also changing the coping out so that pavers can used. The rest of the paver and concrete decking around the pool will be replaced next year. It's not in the budget this year to do everything, and I know it will look messed up with the coping pavers being higher than the rest of the paver and concrete decking around it.

Since the line is being replaced, I figured to replace the light niche (conduit is broke off the back and it's been fixed a few times already). Since the skimmers are on the same side and as the light niche I figured what better time to put new ones in too (i like to create projects for myself, i'm not doing the liner or paver work, i know my limits).

1. Is there anything I need to be careful about when replacing the skimmers?
2. Backfilling: I have read numerous ways to backfill, my understanding is 89 gravel/stone or coarse sand would be appropriate to back fill with. I have about 2 feet working width to work within, there are 2 feet of pavers between the aluminum pool coping and concrete decking. I'll also be replacing the flex piping in this area with sch 40 pvc. If the digging goes easy I'll go all the way to the pump, otherwise that will have to wait till next year.
3. I am guessing if i have time to also replace the return ports and some of the flex pipe if possible and replace the remaining flex next year. Anything to be aware of when doing this.
4. Any recommendation of how to treat rust on the steel walls since it will be exposed around the skimmers, niche and return ports? I assume scrap, wire brush and a rust converter and primers? any recommendation on the rust converter? and primer?

 

[ajw22]

Let's see what advice @jimmythegreek has about your project.

I would replace as much of the flex PVC as you can.

Jimmy said this about treating rust -
You can treat with a rust converter paint like por15 or zero rust.
While I always like to deal with issues this is a mixed bag for me. You can only access the pool side and when painting anything metal for rust proofing if you can't encapsulate it your basically doing nothing really. Doesn't hurt and can only help really, but it is what it is.

 

[jimmythegreek]

You want to use 3/4 clean stone or similar sized angular stone. No fines in it. Replace what you can with ridgid PVC, flex is still schd40 they both are. You can just use a coupling to the flex amd replace that when you can. Since you can get ti both sides of pool a wire brush on am angle grinder cleans it up fast, then rust converter. No primer needed with most of them