Hey guys. I was wondering what the preferred method is for placement of control joints in cantilever coping? Is there a certain distance each cut should be? Should the cut continue around the edge or stop at the top of the cantilever? Finally, is it best practice to have cuts at each anchor (ladder, b-ball hoop, hand rail) and the skimmer boxes? We just had ours poured yesterday and they are coming back to remove the forms and cut the joints today. Unfortunately I can't be there and obviously procrastinated too long to get an answer to these questions! I have confidence in our concrete guy but just wanted to educate myself just in case. Here is a pic of our pool. We went with a charcoal coping border with a seamless slate stamp. I'm hoping the color lightens up a bit after it cures completely. We are going with Gull gray (which is lighter than the charcoal color) with a charcoal release for the rest of the deck, . We picked Grand Ashlar with slate texture for the stamp pattern. Thanks for any suggestions!!
Saw cuts in cantilever coping?
- Thread starter Rev173
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There isn't a hard and fast rule I am aware of for relief cuts. I always took a common sense approach to it and tried to keep the cuts looking ascetically pleasing. I did pour a 14x16' patio at my last house, lever put in the relief cuts I planned and a decade later it still hadn't cracked. I've also seen cracks within inches of relief cuts.
I would expect to see cuts every 6-10 feet evenly space out around the pool. They shouldn't need cuts at all the rails, ladders, etc.
I would expect to see cuts every 6-10 feet evenly space out around the pool. They shouldn't need cuts at all the rails, ladders, etc.