Saving a PVC stub

needsajet

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Jan 4, 2016
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I've noticed this come up... Need to cut pipe very close to concrete, but there's a fitting there... the last guy messed me around by putting a fitting too close to the equipment pad concrete. So you'd like to remove a glued fitting, but save the pipe inside it.

If you have a hammer drill/chisel, chipping out the concrete and replacing it after with a bit of ready mix might be the quickest/easiest way, but here's another way to save a stub.

The pictures are a simulation with an elbow that had been glued on to pipe for around three years, so I'm guessing it's pretty much set :)

I wouldn't recommend this in sub-freezing temps or on a mission critical stub without trying it out on some scrap first.

First, cut off the fitting, leaving as much pipe inside the fitting as possible. Cut it off as square to the pipe as you can. Sand it off so you can see what you're doing.
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For the next bit, you have to be a bit careful. Cut lengthwise down your stub, through the fitting, but not into the pipe. Go slow and keep an eye on both ends of the saw blade. You'll feel when you get to the glue. If the glue was colored, you might see it when you get deep enough. Make two cuts, around 1/2" (12mm) apart.
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Then use a screwdriver and hammer to tap down between the pipe and the little section of fitting.
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Repeat this and work your way around the stub. I finished this one off with the Aussie Glue Fire method, but if you're uncomfortable with that, you can just take your time and get all the little sections off this way. The fitting residues still stuck on show you that I didn't quite cut down to pipe inside. When you're good at this, you can get them off clean, but you're at a bit higher risk of cutting into the pipe. As you get good at it, you'll tend to get over confident and cut too deep. Go slow and watch the blade on your hole saw to avoid any problems.
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Here's the finished product, before and after sanding, and then with a fitting to check it. Be careful chipping off the bits of PVC because it's easy to dig into the pipe. Sandpaper is all you really need, and won't dig in or cause any problems.
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You'll get away with slight cuts into the pipe, perhaps 1/32" (under a mil), but not if they go all the way down the surface to be welded. When cutting the fitting, you can avoid any risk by tipping the hole saw a fraction so that if you do go through the fitting and into the pipe, it's at the end of the stub.
 
Here's the finished product, before and after sanding, and then with a fitting to check it. Be careful chipping off the bits of PVC because it's easy to dig into the pipe. Sandpaper is all you really need, and won't dig in or cause any problems.
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You'll get away with slight cuts into the pipe, perhaps 1/32" (under a mil), but not if they go all the way down the surface to be welded. When cutting the fitting, you can avoid any risk by tipping the hole saw a fraction so that if you do go through the fitting and into the pipe, it's at the end of the stub.

Awesome! I used this method and it saved me from dealing with the concrete pad. Thanks!
 
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I don't know this for sure, but the posting of a PVC fitting above is probably an internal adapter. If you have the time to order one, that's a good option. Be sure to specify the pipe schedule when ordering (usually sched 40 on pools) as well as the pipe diameter. I haven't seen these in the big box stores, so perhaps the poolguy might post a retail link for people facing this situation. Do pool stores over there carry them?
 

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Hmm, Here's another thought as I've had to do this before (not on a pool but my house where I did not want to bust the wall open under a sink)
I used my Dremel with the router attachment. That way I could set the depth of the cut.
This was on a drain so I was not as worried as I would have to be with something that had pressure or suction in it.
 
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