Looking for advice. I bought my house in Portsmouth, RI 2 years ago and we have a gunite chlorine pool that was orig built in 2002. Overall the pool itself is in good shape and the previous owner upgraded equipment including newer Pentair Variable Speed Pump, Hayward Sand Filter and Hayward 400K BTU nat gas heater (installed 6/2020). Since I have lived here I noticed quite frequently I have dealt with cloudy water despite having good water chemistry. In the first season (2022) I noticed my Maytronics robot vac would always come up with what looked exactly like fine filter sand in the cartridges. Fast forward to the beginning of last season and I decided to change the sand at opening. When I took all the old sand out I noticed the previous owner had a lateral sticking straight up as opposed to horizontal. I figured at the time problem solved, this was allowing sand back into the pool. I ultimately replaced the ‘sand,’ but this time with glass media. During last season though I was still getting what looked exactly like filter sand in my robot vac cartridges and dealing with cloudy water especially after using the heater. I was wondering how this is possible since we switched to glass. At night with the pool light on you could see the suspended particles (sand). I would frequently use clarifier and then it would clear up in 1-2 days, but I felt like I was stuck in a vicious cycle. My theory is that since my heater is plumbed after the filter that for several years sand from the erect lateral got into the heater or heat exchanger and it’s just taking a long time for it to all work itself out, back into the pool to be vacuumed out. I definitely notice more sand in the pool/vacuum cartridges after higher use of the heater. Am I on to something here or am I way off?
Sand In My Pool
- Thread starter MikeFek
- Start date
Forgot to mention when I replaced the sand to glass last May I also replaced the lateral assembly completely as well.
Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 3,100
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
What type of pool you have? Can you fill in your signature with pool info? How are you testing your water?
Hi I filled in as much info as I could in signature. I have a gunite pool. I use a Taylor test kit. I take samples to pool stores as well 2-3 times a season up here. Pool season is May - October with a heater up here. Thank you
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,661
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Post up a full set of results and tell us what target levels you use for each of the results...said another way, where do you keep FC, CH, TA etc.
These were my test results below from this morning. My water looks amazing right now, but my fear is when the weather finally gets nice and I run my heater the fine particles will come back and cloud up my water…
5/30
10:00A
pH - 7.8 - I prefer to keep it around 7.4
Cl - 4.7 ppm - I had just added Cal Hypo last night but like to keep at 3.0 ppm
Alk - 85 ppm - I have been trying to bring this up over 100 ppm
Ca Hrd - 175 ppm - I have also been trying to bring this up over 200 ppm
I use both Cal Hypo and Jumbo Tabs (I have an inline chlorinator), had a CYA issue towards end of last year so try to use jumbo tabs sparingly now
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,661
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Yeah, likely this. With a plaster pool, minimum CH needs to be 250. Higher if your fill CH is low. You are dissolving calcium out of the plaster. You need to get it up now. Find a source for calcium chloride and get your CH up over 250 now. Do it now. Any local pool stores? I hate to recommend Pool Stores (pffft...I said it), but best place for the pure stuff).
Calcium Hardness - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?
Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.
www.troublefreepool.com
What is the CH of your fill water? My guess is low and you haven't maintained it and are dissolving calcium from your pool.
Not sure of the CH of the fill water but you are probably right, it’s low. I will test, but I literally just ordered a 25lb bucket of Calcium flake a couple days ago, should arrive soon. I will bring the level up to 250ppm. I appreciate you providing this info! Thank you!
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,661
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Test your fill water. May be best to run your CH up in target range, 350-550 if your CH is low.
Leave the TA alone. The bigger issue is what the CYA level is but if like you say you had a problem last year presumably it was high, I can pretty much assume your FC is at minimum if not less. There lies your problem.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,661
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Let's be clear for the OP.
Your SAND problem is likely the low CH. It is dissolving calcium out of the plaster. Articles previously linked apply.
Your CLOUDY problem is sanitization. You need to maintain proper FC for your CYA. For your reading pleasure...Link-->FC/CYA Levels
We got so much rain this winter, and I ended up pumping out so much water when I closed it and after I closed it that the CYA level was only 23 ppm when I had the pool store test it on Sunday morning. CYA was around 100+ ppm last September.
CYA as tested by my local pool store was only 23 ppm on Sunday 5/25, 2 days after opening. Attaching those results here. Thank you for your input and advice!
Attachments
Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 3,100
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
We dont care much for pool$tore testing. We trust your Taylor test results!
Hi PS just wanted to let you know that I think you were pretty much spot on about the ‘sand in my pool problem.’ As suggested I gradually increased the CH to about 300 ppm from 170 ppm a few weeks ago. I noticed a huge difference in the water clarity right away. I do believe the plaster/gunite was etching into the pool water due to low CH for an extended period. I may bring the level up to 350 ppm like you suggested too because I believe the gunite is due to be resurfaced, but I’m trying to work with what I have for now due to cost. Not to mention I tested my fill water and it was 30 ppm CH. As we say up here in New England, I got wicked soft watah!
Thanks again!