Same Equipment, New Plumbing

MWengineer

Member
Apr 23, 2019
13
Philadelphia
Thought I would post what I've been working on the last couple of weeks. The pump and filter were previously installed on the ground with hoses and at the opposite corner of the pool. Power supply was via UF cable with a GFCI outlet that wouldn't trip when tested. I wanted to relocate and upgrade the installation for ease of maintenance and safety.

The new concrete slab (2ft 9in x 9ft) is four inch thick standard quikrete (~3000psi) on 2" crushed stone, sloped about 1/8 inch per foot away from the house. The pump (Hayward Power-Flo LX) is on a two inch thick high-strength grout pad (quikcrete 6000 psi), and anchored with 3/8 inch stainless all-thread with Sika chemical epoxy through the grout and into the slab. The filter (Waterway Clearwater 22 inch Sand) is sitting loose on its base. The filter base used to have the pump mount on the side but that didn't work out with the location I wanted for the pump so I cut it off. I also filled the underside with expanding foam to keep any critters from making a home there.


Plumbing is all done in schedule 40 PVC with clear primer/cleaner and glue (don't love the look of the purple stuff where the work is visible and i seem to get it all over everything). Connections are all 1-1/2 inch, with the long runs in 2 inch. The straight lengths of pipe on the suction and discharge side of the pump are minimum five pipe diameters per Hydraulic Institute Standards. Elbows are made up from all 45 degree fittings. I could not get long sweeps from the supply house in Sch40. I would have preferred true reducers for the size transitions, but again the supply house only had bushings. I installed 1/2 inch manual air relief valves, leaving enough extra length of pipe to cut-off and replace the threaded adapters a couple of times before having to mess with the valve or 2" tee. Valves are all 1-1/2" single-union ball type located at the skimmer and return eyeball for isolation and one on the pump discharge for flow control. Unions are located to permit removal of the multiport valve and pump assemblies separately for maintenance and winter storage. Piping from the waste outlet is positioned to discharge into a future catch basin which will pull double duty for the downspout. The buried lengths of pipe are sloped up towards the pump and filter to prevent trapped air and bedded in 2 inches of sand with about 18 inches of total cover. There is caution tape buried about halfway down to warn of the below pipe in any future digging. I jacketed the two inch pipe where it leaves the ground with three inch DWV to protect it from the weed-wacker or other damage.




Pressure gauge is 2 inch glycerin filled 0-30 psi stainless steel on a brass tee tapped off the multiport valve. I'd like to add a pressure sensor integrated to my google home system for remote monitoring in the future.

Electrical supply is covered by two breakers. The pump is hardwired on a dedicated 20-amp GFCI breaker, intermatic timer located inside the house, and a switch for local control during backwash operations. The convenience receptacle is a tamper-resistant GFCI on a dedicated 20-amp breaker with weather-tight cover. The pump is bonded to the pool frame with solid #6 wire buried with the pipe.

Thanks for reading and any criticism, suggestion, or question is welcome!
-Mike
 
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Just a suggestion. If it were my pool, I would install unions just below the ball valves so you could disconnect the pipes during the winter.
Any contractions/expansions in the pool wall could result in damage to the wall or plumbing.
Just a thought. :cheers:
 
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I'll have to read more into aerating, but a tee would be easy enough to install if needed.

I was thinking, after the fact of course, I should have got double union instead of single union for at least the isolation valves. Would have made it a non-issue. Is your concern more on the pipe pushing/pulling vertically on the wall fittings, the pool wall moving laterally, or just both?

Some back of the napkin math shows 3/16th inch expansion for 100 deg change over the installed vertical length of pvc. The weather was about 60 degrees when installed so I should only see about half that movement each way in even above/below average yearly temps for Philly. The movement of the pool wall is another problem entirely as it's anyone's guess which way that will want to go when it expands. All that said though, better safe then sorry! Thanks for the feedback!:cheers:
 
Is your concern more on the pipe pushing/pulling vertically on the wall fittings, the pool wall moving laterally, or just both?
Both.

The movement of the pool wall is another problem entirely as it's anyone's guess which way that will want to go when it expands.

With freeze/thaw cycles, it’s anyones guess as to what could happen. I always error on the side of caution. :cheers:
 
Looks great and is a nice install for an AGP. You cant pay to have nice clean work you gotta roll your sleeves up. Good job. Dont sweat the expansion of pipes. 1.5 PVC bends easy it will be fine and you put sand around pipes I see so that will eat up any movement.
 
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