S200 runs for about an hour then stops - power supply seems quite hot

cbednorz

Member
Feb 17, 2022
7
Sydney, Australia
Pool Size
50000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair iChlor 30
Hi,

Have a two or three year old Dolphin S200 that has started only running for about an hour then stopping.
When running it seems to be working perfectly - forwards, backwards, climbing walls, impeller etc.
Impeller / impeller shaft is clean.

If i run it out of the pool, upside down in diagnostic mode it seems fine.

I've noticed that the "new style" power supply / controller seems to be pretty hot (not crazy hot) and the top label with the buttons is lifting off.
With the S200 disconnected the on / off button still seems to work fine, but with the S200 connected it is sometimes difficult to turn on - multiple presses of the On button before it lights up.
When the S200 stops the lights on the power supply / controller remain on - but I think it has always done that - is that normal?
I assume the power supply / controller decides when the S200 stops - there isn't any intelligence in the robot itself is there?

What are the chances this is a power supply problem?

The S200 is only in the pool twice a week when running and is removed and washed off afterwards. If the problem was corrosion would it run for that long before stopping?

Thanks for any advice.
 
@cbednorz
When the S200 is turned on, the cleaner will run one complete cleaning cycle as determined by the microprocessor on the cleaners control board, located in the motor assembly. (I'm guessing 2hrs)
The power supply will remain on for some time after the cleaner stops. (I'm estimating a total time of 3hrs)

If the power supply is getting abnormally hot, I would think you have an excessive current draw and the power supply is shutting down on high temp or the cleaners motor is shutting down due to a fault. Check for:
1. Moisture in the cleaners motor assembly. Open motor, dry it out. Replace desicant pack. Replace o-ring seal.
2. Water penetration in the cable. Cracked / damaged cable. Replace the cable.
3. Water in the cable swivel (if you have a swivel). Replace seal. Replace cable.

Do you have a multi-meter?
1. Do a continuity check on the cable.
2. Test output voltage of power supply when first turned on and just after the cleaner stops.

Hope this helps. Sorry you did not receive a response earlier.
 
Thanks for the reply - great information.
I'll check the voltage from the power supply before and after and see what it is.
Kind of hesitant to open the motor assembly as I feel like any sealed thing is never the same once it is cracked open but if the problem persists or gets worse I guess there is no harm as the alternative is replacing it.
 
Thanks for the reply - great information.
I'll check the voltage from the power supply before and after and see what it is.
Kind of hesitant to open the motor assembly as I feel like any sealed thing is never the same once it is cracked open but if the problem persists or gets worse I guess there is no harm as the alternative is replacing it.

The motor assemblies are designed to be opened easily as they have simple mechanical latches that hold the two haves together. You simply pop the latches and the two haves separate. There is a wire or two that connects one half to the other but there’s enough slack to have it open up. When it comes time to close it up you just make sure that you clean and re-lube the o-ring with a thin layer of pool silicone grease. Then reassemble the halves and snap it tight. It’s really not a big deal. The dessicant pack should be replaced no matter if it’s wet or dry. You can buy a ton of them very cheaply off Amazon.
 
Some power supplies had issues getting hot and bubbling out as you described even when stored/used in a shady cool environment.
Many were able to get them replaced under warranty.