RUST STAIN/MAYBE HOLE IN PEBBLE TEC FLOOR OF POOL "HELP"

[java1764]

Hello,

I hope I am posting a new post...

My husband found a nail in the pool. Well, I thought he would have removed the nail. He did not. After I found he did not, he removed it a few weeks later. There was a very bad stain, or maybe even deterioration in the pebble tec. To make matters worse, after he reomved the nail, I found him scrubbing the pebble tec with a COPPER WIRE BRUSH...In my very upset state as you can imagine, I have had the pool for 5 years, and have taken very good care. Well now it looks like there is a hole in the pool from the nail, and from the copper wire brush there is a black stain.

I don't have any idea what to do. I don't want to make matters worse. I have scrubbed with the proper pool brush and nothing helps. I have shocked the pool, hoping that would help.

Our chemical balance is fine. My problem is the stain and I think a hole. (It's too cold now, to dive in and check it out)

Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Before I call a professional to repair the damage. I would like to save some money and try myself first. Unless the experts think I will be wasting my time.

One more item, I have scale build up around the water line on the tile. I have tried the chemicals that I was told to use, however, it is not working. There is a test with the chemical, you poor a capful on the build up and if it bubbles then I have the right product, if does not, I don't. It did not bubble. Any advice on how to get rid of the "ring around the tile"? Without having to use a pumice stone, I have used the pool pumice stone, and it does not help either. I think I am looking at a chemical need at this point.

Again, my chemical balance is all good...

I think my specs will show up with my signature (this is my first post).

Thank you in advance for your assistance.

 

[maxepr1]

put a couple Vitamin C tablets on the stain, should go away.

 

[jblizzle]

Again, my chemical balance is all good...

Welcome

We are not a trusting bunch. Please post the full list of test results so we can judge for ourselves

Here in AZ we see the ring around the tile a lot. Sometimes I think it is due to "scaling" i.e. improper water balance. Other times it is just due to deposits resulting from evaporation and hard water.

If it is scaling, getting the chemistry in line can help remove the stain. I am not sure how much can be done for the evaporation problem.

There is always the options of a sand/salt blasting to clean the tile.

 

[linen]

Welcome to tfp, java1764

I agree with jbliz, it would help us help you if you would post your latest test results. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/read_before_you_post

 

[Bama Rambler]

First, Welcome to TFP.

As stated above a set of test results and how you got them would be nice.

The iron stain should be easy to remove with a vitamin C tablet or two. The copper stain (if it's not just smeared rust staining) may be a little more of a challenge. I suggest getting a Jack's stain kit for the copper stain if it doesn't come up with the Vit C tab.

I suggest trying muriatic acid on the scaling if that's not what you've already tried. Try mixing it 4 parts water to 1 part acid to begin with and mix it 2 parts water to 1 part acid if that doesn't work. You can try it full strength if 2:1 doesn't work but be careful if you do that. Also be sure to wear rubber, latex, etc. gloves when working with it. And be aware of the wind direction you don't want a whiff of it if you can help it.

 

[java1764]

Thank you all for the responses. Vitamin C? Interesting. On pebble tec? I am going to wait till it's warm so I can dive down to see if it actually ate through the pebble tec. That is what it looks like to me from just a visual. It's the shape of the screw that was left to rust...I will give it a try.

As for the question on how I got my results for the pool. I went and took a sample and had it tested 2 times at 2 different locations of Leslies Pool Supply.

My levels are what they should be according to them...(the muratic acid, is always a bother to have to put in, but it is something that has to be used with the salt system).

The last test results are:

Pool Volume is: 11200

FFAC = 2
TAC = 2
Salt = 3200
CH = 200
CYA = 30
TA = 110
PH = 8.0 (I added muratic acid so it's ok now, I am taking in another water sample tomorrow)
Phospates = 1000 which is very high I added proper chemical will have results tomorrow hopefully its back to below 100

So, I guess I can't get an answer until I have the chemicals under proper control?... Especially the phospahtes and this is the first time since the pool was built 5 years ago this has happened. Don't know why? Maybe the cotton wood tree that use to be in my neighbors backyard? 20lbs of cotton every hour (heavy when wet). And even then the phospates were not high?

Any suggenstions?...

Will repost new test results tomorrow.

Thank you so far for your help. Nice site...

I use to take care of the pool weekly if not daily. My spouse became ill so it has not been on the priority list....it's back on though, I don't want to ruin such an expensive investment...

Thank you all very much.

 

[linen]

You will definitely benefit from your own test kit. Pool store results are notoriously inconsistent. Take a look at the test kit link in my sig. Depending on the test they used, it is very possible your ph was higher than 8.0 (many tests saturate at that level). Did you see how they tested ph? If you ph has been tending to the higher side like 8.2-8.4, it is very possible the scale buildup is due to that. I used the poolcalculator.com to get your CSI value at 8.4, I got ~0.6. High CSI (at/above 0.6) suggests a greater tendency for scaling.

Ignore the phosphates, if you pool is properly maintained, phosphates don't matter. People on here have reported phosphate levels above 4000 ppm and have had no problems since they kept their pools with the proper FC levels. See this link: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/recommended_levels for proper levels.

 

[Shane1]

The experts here will get you going in the proper direction. If you take thier advice the end result will be a great looking, properly maintained pool with minimum expense. Dont buy another thing Leslies tries to sell you. You can get your water tested their for now but eventually you will want to buy your own test kit.
I had some rust on my pebble tec last year. A tech came out and poured some acid on it and bingo it was gone in a matter of seconds. He used a long peice of PVC to pour the acid directly on the stain. It was amazing how easy it was.

 

[Bama Rambler]

Keeping in mind that the results you're getting may not be correct, here's my comments about the results you have.

pH = 8.0 - You need to do your own pH testing and adjusting. You cna buy your own OTO/phenol red test kit and do that yourself. As Linen said, it may be higher than 8.0.
FC = 2 ppm - That's not bad if it's correct. but you really want it higher than that. (we'll discuss more in the CYA section)
CC = Missing but if their TC is correct then it's zero - Good!
TC = 2 - It's as it should be. It should match the FC or be no more than .5 higher. FC + CC = TC
TA = 110 - That's not too bad but it's higher than we recommend. If you'll lower it to about 70 or 80 ppm you'll notice a marked reduction in the pH rising and the need to add acid.
CH = 200 - That's pretty low for a plaster pool. There's no immediate need to raise it but it's something to think about. How old is your pool?
CYA = 30 - This is the one test the pool stores are the worst at. But a CYA of 30 ppm is way too low for a swcg pool. It needs to be about 70 ppm. You'll be able to keep FC in the water and you'll also be able to run your swcg at a lower setting or for less time than you are now if you'll raise it. However, keep in mind the 30 may not even be close to what the number really is.
Salt = 3200 - That seems to be in the ballpark for most swcg's here in the states, but without the model of your system I can't say what yours should be.

As mentioned above. Don't worry about the phosphates and you really should consider getting a good test kit. I know it seems like we abandoned your original question but I think it's answered and the chemistry is very important.

 

[java1764]

Hi. Thank all who posted. Emergencies came piling on, and unfortunately still are. It took me a while to find the site again. I followed all advice, wanted to thank those who posted if your still here. Leslie's / every time I have them test, I seem to have phosphate issues and with no leaves or anything ive really taken out, they always try to sell me a product. So thanks for that tide bit.. things are good pool wise, except the build up around the tile still. Don't know how to rid it. I'm at the point of getting the power washer n blasting it off!