Resurfacing - Aquabright and other questions for TFP

[ZWExton]

Hello all,

I came upon this sight while researching pebble v plaster. Read everything available on here about Aquabright, fell in love, then got the quote and saw that it was virtually DOUBLE the cost of a competitive Pebble quote I got. Yikes! If it was 20 or even 30% more I could justify it, but 100% more is a bit much. Is this typical? He's the only guy in the North Dallas area offering it so I can't necessarily get another quote.

So Pebble it is, I suppose. Found a company I like - the gentleman provided the best price, the best warranty, and some beautiful options with the fancy glass beads that should look great. He's also been over multiple times at my request with samples - I would be happy to give him the business.

Reading up on the resources provided here at TFP, I have to ask these clarifying questions (in order to keep my future Pebble in superb shape for as long as possible

1.) You guys use liquid bleach, and almost exclusively liquid bleach to sanitize the pool? No granular shock or pucks or anything?

Side note - prior owners of my home did not care for the pool well - 60sf filter was 75% FULL of DE. Wish I had pictures. In addition, CYA was so high for a while that I used nothing but granular shock to chlorinate and drained/refilled a few inches a week to eventually level it out. At present, I monitor the pool twice a week with test strips and need to do very little - typically shock when chlorine is low, add 1 Puck a week in the summer, levels remain good and water is delightful (until it hits 98° in summer.)

2.) Test strips. I'm guessing these suck - which makes sense because they are so easy. No fuss, no muss, probably no accuracy, right? I've seen some kits referenced for water testing. Is there ANY strip that is reliable enough for self care of a private pool?

3.) I have been told specifically to put my current chemicals into the skimmer with the pump running. I questioned this initially but when my pump was replaced (Hayward variable speed now) the pool guy confirmed that's what he does. I always add it pretty slow (a full 60sec for a 1lb dose of shock) but it this also hurting my pool? Even when I go liquid bleach, is this a mistake?

4.) Attaching some pictures of my pool. Let me know if you'd resurface now or wait a year or two. There's some surface flaking on the bench of the spa (pictured) and various discoloration (resurfacing guys are calling it mottling) on the pool floor. Pool is almost totally exposed to the southern and western skies, so it bakes. Looking to go a little lighter for summer temperature relief. Currently 90deg on May 24.

Can't wait for the replies! Excited to find such a wealth of knowledge. How 'bout that internet?

 

[DeanP66]

ZWExton, welcome to TFP. This site is a wealth of knowledge. I'll try to answer as many questions as possible.

1) Yes, we stick to liquid chlorine (bleach) because it does not increase cya levels. All solid forms of chlorine add either cya or calcium to the pool with every dosage so it builds and builds until the pool is unmanageable. Liquid chlorine only adds chlorine and a negligible amount of salt. That's it.

2) Test strips -- You said it, they suck. They are unreliable and the ranges are often times too broad to make any good decisions from them. We call them "guess strips" here. Using test strips to care for your pool will lead to frustration.

3) Generally, it is not a great idea to add chemicals to your skimmer, especially if adding something like tablets that will stay in the skimmer basket even after your pump turns off for the day. What will happen is the water in the skimmer basket will be so concentrated and when the pump turns on again in the morning, that high concentration will go right into the pump and filter and can damage the gaskets and o-rings. With liquid chlorine, you can just add it slowly in front of a return when the pool is on, or even walk it around the perimeter of the pool. That's what I do because I have a Variable speed pump that runs on a very low setting most of the day, so the water coming out of the return is not very strong. By pouring it around the perimeter of the pool, I get chlorine virtually everywhere in a short period of time. Adding dry acid to the pool by using this method could cause staining on your pool floor. That's why we recommend going with muriatic acid (liquid) instead. You can add it just like liquid chlorine with no damage to your surface. Just make sure the pump is on. You can even brush the water a little if you want to mix it around a little bit.

4) I'll leave the surface issues to others with more knowledge. What you might try though is to put some vitamin c tablets in a sock and rub them against some of the surface stains. If they lighten or clear up, it means that there is metal in your water that is causing those stains. They can be treated with ascorbic acid and sequesterants to impove the pool's look which could buy you some time regarding your resurfacing.

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

I agree with the above responses and will add:

1. The alternative to liquid chlorine is going to a SWG ... although all the builders in TX seem to freak out at that idea

2. Just get the TF-100 from tftestkits.net and have the best from the start ... and the best value for what you get

3. Yup, basically nothing gets put in the skimmer

4. If you are not leaking water, the is purely asthetics. You could likely get by with it for as long as you can stand the site and feel of it

 

[ZWExton]

This is a great help! The strips always seemed to react the way I expected when I made adjustments and I really wanted to believe I was getting good information. I will be a big boy and get the proper kit.

Follow-up question(s) - the folks at the local pool supply had me buy this giant tub of "shock" last year when I was fighting high CYA. They said not to use tablets and manage chlorine with this instead until CYA comes down.

1.) is this complete BS? If all solid/granular products add CYA, what is this stuff? And what the heck are "other ingredients?"

2.) Is CYA perishable at all? I have extreme sun exposure - once I get CYA to an appropriate level, why would I ever need to add it again?

 

[jblizzle]

If the bucket of powder you got is Cal hypo, then that adds calcium instead of stabilizer with your chlorine. Being in Texas you don't want to be adding calcium either!

Cya does slowly breakdown and is lost due to Splash out and filter backwashing. Generally I think you may need to add it in the spring and might want to check it once in the middle of summer and add if necessary.