Remodel - Not off to a good start.

duraleigh said:
Keeping your posts under one thread is ALWAYS a good idea...even when the subject changes somewhat. I lets others see the whole "story". Few responders will bounce back and forth trying to assemble the information and you often get overlooked.

:goodjob:

Perhaps Jason will see fit to merge the new one into this one.
 
No problem if a merge is recommended. I was looking to try and get some specifics without overwhelming any new readers with the history. :).

It looks like it took 13,000 gallons to fill it according to my water meter. Maybe I have an under recording meter since it has never been changed out since 1985. :)..... but I'm going with 13K as the capacity and changed my signature to this amount.

The gas to the heater was hooked up by Suburban Propane at a cost of $279 (includes new regulator). It seems we are getting nickle and dimed to death here.

Thanks guys

EDIT: here are a couple of pictures just taken:



 
I just love the color! Did you check the CL website for start up procedures? If not, I would and follow their advice. It may mean warranty invalidation if you don't. Seems very important, and that's how it is with some other finish companies.
 
Brushpup said:
I just love the color! Did you check the CL website for start up procedures? If not, I would and follow their advice. It may mean warranty invalidation if you don't. Seems very important, and that's how it is with some other finish companies.


Everything I have been able to find so far on the CL website says to refer to your pool builder for startup and water chemistry requirements. I don't even have warranty papers yet and probably won't see anything until I write the final check.
 
hoosierrun said:
Brushpup said:
I just love the color! Did you check the CL website for start up procedures? If not, I would and follow their advice. It may mean warranty invalidation if you don't. Seems very important, and that's how it is with some other finish companies.


Everything I have been able to find so far on the CL website says to refer to your pool builder for startup and water chemistry requirements. I don't even have warranty papers yet and probably won't see anything until I write the final check.

:shock:

Yikes! I went there and found the same thing. Other companies, Wet Edge for one, had very specific startup procedures to follow. CL was very clear about that 3 copies warranty page. Man, I hope you get that....its what made me say :shock: Good luck and keep us posted.
 
Brushpup said:
Just wondering if they got back to you on startup.

They came in Monday and dumped a couple of gallons of acid in the pool and asked us to continue brushing towards the drain. Yesterday (Wednesday) they called and said "I" could start balancing the water. They are supposed to come out Friday to re-install the pavers around the skimmer, fix the pool light wiring (they still never did the 12 volt section they cut), and wire up the heater.

I have some white splotches in the surface of the pool and spa and they don't seem to be going away, but the pool remodelers say that the splotches will eventually disappear.

I am irritated that they want me to bring the PH back up. You would think it would be their responsibility to turn it over to me fully balanced and let me take it from there.

When I ran the base demand test, it took 41 drops to arrive at a PH of 7.4. That will roughly equate to about 25 pounds of soda ash (possibly more), but the new coating should absorb some of the acid. That soda ash costs about $50 for a 25 pound bucket at Leslies. I may buy 10 pounds and supplement with baking soda which is way cheaper.

I could sure use some advice here on how I should begin. I've read many posts and the water chemistry (pool school page) and have a general idea of where I need to go. I'm not sure about the amount of product I should put in at 1 time. Should soda ash or baking soda go in the skimmer? (as powder?). I don't want to risk discoloring the pool surface, but don't want to trash the pump bronze impellers. I'll probably pick up some test strips and use those until I get in the general range and then go to the more accurate test kit. I'm thinking a pound of soda ash at a time at 2 hour intervals.

Thanks guys.
 
I just found this and wanted to check in, but have to be off to work. For now post a full set and don't sub with baking soda as it will drive up your TA too much and do too little for your pH. What is your pH now? Your pool is pretty small for 2 gallons of acid.
 
Brushpup said:
I just found this and wanted to check in, but have to be off to work. For now post a full set and don't sub with baking soda as it will drive up your TA too much and do too little for your pH. What is your pH now? Your pool is pretty small for 2 gallons of acid.


I really have no way to measure the PH this low, but as I mentioned it took 41 drops of the base demand reagent. Maybe I should buy the 25 pound bucket from Leslies (~$50).

I can say that the acid level is so high that when I stepped in the water to brush the pool, I noticed later that I got slight burns on my skin (just noticeable, but a little irritating). I know I'm not supposed to be in the water, but it is hard to brush every spot from the outside.
 
I would get Soda Ash at the store. It is sold as Arm&Hammer WASHING SODA...not detergent. Get a few boxes and play with the pool calculator and add a little at a time. It will raise your pH and not make your TA go crazy high if you over shoot. I really think the installers were very negligent with that addition, and I would call them and start documenting. I'm not startup expert, but I know you shouldn't be with an acid pH in your pool.
 

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Patrick (and others who have provided input), thanks so much for the help.

I ended up buying the 30 pound container of soda ash from Leslies and some test strips (I'll save my test kit reagents for a bit later). I didn't know about Washing Soda when I bought this stuff.

Right now my TA, CC, and hardness are in the desired range. I have no FC and CC is a tad on the high side. PH is still not measureable (too low). We are slowly going to add soda ash over the next few days and keep checking. The pool chemistry is now solely in my wife's hands as I need to leave for a while (bad timing but an estimated 10 day job is turning out to be a month). You may not hear from me for a while. I've encouraged my wife to get on the board and continue dialog, but I have my doubts that she will. She has to make the final payment after accepting the finished job. When I come back, I'll provide an update. I really think these pool guys over-committed and took on too much work. It looks like a lot of people held off on their pool remodelling because of the economy, but just decided it had to be done. Count me in on the crowd :). Take care guys!
 
and supplement with baking soda which is way cheaper.
Do not use baking soda to raise pH....it has very little effect.

I'll probably pick up some test strips and use those until I get in the general range and then go to the more accurate test kit
I am gonna' sound a bit harsh perhaps, but you should really re-think the test strips......it's a lot like guessing at whats in your pool instead of actually knowing. We teach a pool chemistry method that involves decent precision in testing and dosing so your results are predictable and consistent. Test strips are at the opposite end of that spectrum.

It's pretty easy to tell I have an agenda in that I make one of the suggested kits. That said, you will never spend wiser money than having the instrument in your possession that allows you to take control of your own pool. Strips simply will not do that nor will pool store testing.
 
Ok, I got back in town late Saturday (been gone for a month). The pool looks pretty good. My wife wrote the final check and did the best she could keeping up with the chemicals and brushing the pool. Then she had to leave for a couple of weeks and left the pool in the hands of our adult son. My son removed all the leaves and debris on a regular basis and drained the excess water off from the big rain storms we have been experiencing in the Tampa Bay area. He brought water samples to a pool store twice when we were gone and with guidance from the store (and a few chemical purchases) got the water in balance. I was able to run 3 tests last night before I had to quit due to bad mosquitos. The PH is 7.4. FC 5 PPM, CC .2 PPM, and TA 80. This looks good to me. Now I can take over and continue to keep it in balance. The Spa heater works and all the lights work.

The only thing they forgot to do was seal down the trim rings for the skimmer basket covers. When you go to remove the covers for the skimmer baskets, the entire trim ring for the pavers lifts up. I'm not sure what product to use to hold these down, so if anyone has any recommendations (some kind of caulk?), I'd sure like to hear of a recommendation.

Thanks guys. It was a long way getting here, but I think we are about done. I have a few more grey hairs over this project and hope I don't have to do it again. :)
 
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