Reconfigure Jandy 3-port valve stops

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gerjman

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Dec 8, 2014
20
Houston
Hi Folks, I'm doing a replumb on my waterfall to ditch the loud little fixed pump and instead divert from the main pump (Intelliflo VS) so I can run it "slow" and return as little or as much as I want through the waterfall versus main return. I wanted to use a 3-way Jandy valve for this but 95% of the time I will not be running the waterfall, so I want to optimize the flow to main return to run "through the T" to make it as efficient as possible. The stops on the Jandy are of course fixed (molded into the lid) such that they assme the inlet is always "into the T" not into a branch as I want to plumb it. I know you can file off the stop so it will go 360, but I do NOT want to do this as the kids might be turning the waterfall on/off and i don't want them to fully shut off main flow stress the pump and seals, etc..

I found that the cheaper Pentair 3-ways have PINS so i can adjust the stops wherever I want (which is a great feature), however when I recieved the Pentairs, I was a bit surprised at how constricted they are into each port. There is a plastic shelf on each side that constricts even more than the diverter inside. I think the Jandy's do not have this much restriction.

Does anyone know if you can REMOVE THE LID on the Jandy and rotate it such that the stops can align with one of the branches instead of the inlet into the Tee? this will achieve the same thing and it will still work as diverter between the other two ports?

BTW, SIDE QUESTION ==> the other side benefit to the Pentair was that i noticed you can pickup intermatic drop -in actuator for $80 , much cheaper than Jandy. If i ever add an actuator, I figured that would be a good option. If I am able to rotate the lid instead and use a Jandy, is there a similar Jandy compatible actuator that doesn't cost as much as the insanely priced Jandy.

Thanks!
 
On the Jandy 3-way valve lid - look for the work "INLET".... it's probably aligned with the base of the "T". Realign "INLET" with the port you are going to use for the inlet port (from the pump/filter). No need to file off any stops and prevents someone from rotating the valve handle to possibly dead-head the pump.
 
gerjman said:
Does anyone know if you can REMOVE THE LID on the Jandy and rotate it such that the stops can align with one of the branches instead of the inlet into the Tee? this will achieve the same thing and it will still work as diverter between the other two ports?
Click to expand...

Yes, just did this on a replumb job myself. As proavia says, just remove the 8 screws on the Jandy lid and rotate it to where you want the inlet.

gerjman said:
BTW, SIDE QUESTION ==> the other side benefit to the Pentair was that i noticed you can pickup intermatic drop -in actuator for $80 , much cheaper than Jandy. If i ever add an actuator, I figured that would be a good option. If I am able to rotate the lid instead and use a Jandy, is there a similar Jandy compatible actuator that doesn't cost as much as the insanely priced Jandy.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Keep an eye on Jandy actuator (JVA) pricing as it does swing wildly by the season. I think I paid $111 in August, where it is now listed up at $156.
 
Not 100% sure about actuators - I don't have any automation on my pool. That being said, the literature I have seen says the Intermatic actuators will work on all "industry standard valves".
 
Thanks for the tips proavia and dodger, it looks like i will take back the pentair valves and pickup a Jandy and go that way then. I will also give the intermatic a shot when the time comes and see if I can rig it up to work.
 
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