Recalibration attempt failed on Hayward Aqua Rite

[BruzerJim]

Greetings fellow pool lovers

Into Week 2 of opening the pool and awaiting my heater sensor replacement part. My salt reading reads 3000 ppm on my board. My water test said it was 1700 - big difference.

My Salt cell is clean and I had them check the cell last year when the readings were slightly off.

I tried to recalibrate and I couldn't get beyond Step 1 -

How to Recalibrate Your Hayward Aqua Rite Turbo Cell - PoolSupplyWorld Blog

There was no click to recalibrate after switching Off and back to Auto. Does anybody have any experience with this?

Do I need a new board? Or parts? Any direction would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Jim

 

[JamesW]

What are the diagnostic readings?

 

[BruzerJim]

I'm not sure how to read each # as I normally focus on the salt level and test weekly at local pool store
it now reads: 0, 58, 14.7, 0.00, 75P, -0, AL - 0, r 1.58

 

[JamesW]

Probably a bad thermistor.

 

[BruzerJim]

I checked the manual and it makes no reference to parts. Where does the thermistor go? Is this something I can replace or do I need to replace the board?

 

[JamesW]

Black disc quarter size top right. Can be replaced if you can solder.

You can use SL322R025 or AS322R025. The SL322R025 is easier to solder into the board

 

[BruzerJim]

Very helpful - thanks James!

 

[BruzerJim]

The system seems to be still generating chlorine- I will order the part and hope for the best. I appreciate your efforts James

 

[JamesW]

Probably not generating chlorine.

 

[BruzerJim]

James - I got the part today. Desoldered (no easy feat) and attempted to solder the new thermistor. I hooked it up and it started clicking and the lights were a flashing. I shut the power off after a few seconds as it didn't sound right.

Do you think my solder job is the issue? Or is it something else now? The thermistor was definitely brittle and fell apart in my hand as I dismantled the power.

Any thoughts on this James?
Thanks again for your efforts.

 

[BruzerJim]

The solder did not reach the front of the board - You can actually see the holes from the front of the board but the back seems fairly secure.

 

[BruzerJim]

 

[JamesW]

You might want to redo the thermistor.

Also, make sure that you put all the wires back correctly.

 

[JoeGolan]

You may need a higher wattage soldering iron, use of a under powered iron will leave you with 'cold' solder joints. You need enough heat for the solder to flow and then let it cool naturally without moving the thermistor.

 

[BruzerJim]

I am having some heat issues with the old soldering gun. Will rectify and try again.

 

[JamesW]

It looks like you reused the little plastic leg covers. Just leave those out.

 

[BruzerJim]

Ok - I will do that. I thought they were important as all the other videos online show these leg covers. I will remove and resaulder and let you know.

**** day job...

 

[BruzerJim]

Ok - fixed my gun. Got proper solder - removed the bad solder and resoldered (much easier this time) the thermistor back on. Hooked up wires - threw on the power and the lights are still a flashin! No more clicking noise just flashing lights.

I don't know if I damaged the thermistor - I did buy a second one - but it looks good. The solder joints look good. Or is it something else?

 

[BruzerJim]

 

[BruzerJim]