Re: Poured concrete pool

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mnevmatulin

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Feb 26, 2015
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Memphis, TN
Re: Poured concrete pool

I am considering building a pool and trying to decide on the type based on price, ease of doing yourself, quality, etc. Thought poured concrete would actually be a good choice. My biggest concern was possible leaks between walls and bottom since those would have to be two separate pieces of slab. Mr. "Waste" stated that this should not be a concern but I would like to hear other opinions too (no disrespect to Mr. "Waste")
Also, how thick should be the walls/ bottom? Will I need to plaster the surface? I was hoping to just grind/sand the rough areas and paint with epoxy paint. Would that work???
 
Re: Poured concrete pool

oe_alex said:
You will want to use a waterstop between the cold joint of the wall and floor. Waterstops & Installation Accessories | Sika Corporation U.S.

I would imagine that painting would be fine. Dropping in a liner would make the most sense to me with concrete walls. You will not achieve the PSI in a poured wall like you do with shotcrete.
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Waterstop would probably work, but the pool shell would need to be engineered to be constructed in separate pours. I am not sure why you think gunite would be stronger than poured concrete. Concrete mixes can be designed for virtually any slump and ultimate compressive strength. I've poured 8 inch slump concrete that had 8000 psi design strength. It's all about the mix design. I think any money the OP hopes to save by pouring this will be more than offset by the formwork necessary for the wall pours. Walls approaching six to eight feet in height are NOT a DIY project! As far as waterproofing, a product like Xypex would easily out-perform epoxy paint any day. This project sounds more like a "ceement pond" than a pool.
 
Re: Poured concrete pool

If you are going to do a separate floor and wall pours its not going to work with either plaster or paint. You will have two separate structures with very different load characteristics. Temperature changes and time will cause them to fight each other. You could pour then together but that takes much more engineering and skill. So properly engineered and constructed it would work. Then you could plaster it. It would probably cost twice the cost of a gunite pool. There is a build on here right now that is using poured walls and a floor. I can't find it now.

If you want a pool where you can do it all yourself then its going to be vinyl liner. You can have concrete floor, poured or block walls.
 
Re: Poured concrete pool

mnevmatulin said:
I am considering building a pool and trying to decide on the type based on price, ease of doing yourself, quality, etc. Thought poured concrete would actually be a good choice. My biggest concern was possible leaks between walls and bottom since those would have to be two separate pieces of slab. Mr. "Waste" stated that this should not be a concern but I would like to hear other opinions too (no disrespect to Mr. "Waste")
Also, how thick should be the walls/ bottom? Will I need to plaster the surface? I was hoping to just grind/sand the rough areas and paint with epoxy paint. Would that work???
Click to expand...

A cold joint with shotcrete/gunite is generally not an issue so long as the joint was prepped properly. With poured concrete, this is much more of an issue.

What is your reasoning for wanting to go with poured concrete? As mentioned below, the form work alone would more than likely make up for the cost difference for gunite or shotcrete, both of which pose no issue with cold joints, elaborate forms etc.

BigEinAZ said:
Waterstop would probably work, but the pool shell would need to be engineered to be constructed in separate pours. I am not sure why you think gunite would be stronger than poured concrete. Concrete mixes can be designed for virtually any slump and ultimate compressive strength. I've poured 8 inch slump concrete that had 8000 psi design strength. It's all about the mix design. I think any money the OP hopes to save by pouring this will be more than offset by the formwork necessary for the wall pours. Walls approaching six to eight feet in height are NOT a DIY project! As far as waterproofing, a product like Xypex would easily out-perform epoxy paint any day. This project sounds more like a "ceement pond" than a pool.
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The same cement content gunite/shotcrete mix as a poured concrete mix (especially if it has to be pumped) would yield higher compressive strengths due to having less water, lower slump, and the pneumatically applied process where pressurized compaction also adds to the cured compressive strength.

I'm curious the to make up of 8" slump - 8,000 PSI concrete. That slump could not be achieved from water alone and more than likely used mostly plasticizers and admixtures? I assume the high slump was required for the mix to be pumped up multiple stories?
 
Re: Poured concrete pool

Brian,

That particular mix was for caisson pours using a steel tremie pipe. The soil was really bad so the shafts had to be filled with liquid to keep them from caving in. The tremie reached all the way down to bedrock and was raised as the concrete filled the shaft. The bentonite slurry was forced up and out of the hole as the concrete displaced it. Probably A LOT more information than you wanted . . .:)

The mix design had a high cement content, retarder, high-range water reducer and superplasticizer. For pumping concrete, the aggregate shape and size has as much to do with "pumpability" as slump does.

As a side note, your pool is spectacular! Nicely done!
 
Re: Poured concrete pool

That will work but requires A LOT of over excavation and engineered backfill. Combine that with the material and labor cost of the formwork and you'll be at least double the cost of conventional pool shell construction.
 

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Re: Poured concrete pool

I'm curious the reasoning behind deviating from a typical gunite shell. Nearly any other method is going to require custom engineering, specialized equipment or materials, and be more expensive. If cost is an utmost concern and you are not interested in a fiberglass or prefabbed metal frame vinyl pool, then a poured concrete floor and CMU block walls would be the only reasonable option.
 
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