Questions from newbie - 1st post

[DeepWaterRunner]

I'm thrilled to have found this forum, so thanks to all! Now with a 1yo pool after prior experience 35 yrs ago with a regular chlorine pool. Now trying to figure out the Chems with the SWG. I've been reading all weekend and haven't found some answers and hubby wants me to stop being obsessed with reading. I've been using AC7 strips, and I'm getting a strong sense these are not suggested. Now that I see the light:

Q1: I've seen the table of recommended test kits, so which one should I get?

I've found after this winter that I have some scale build up on the waterline tiles .despite the Total Hardiness being in the "OK" range on the strip.

Q2: How do I better manage my chems to prevent?

Q3: How do I get rid of the scale?
(I scrubbed with pumice stone made from the recycled glass and it was totally ineffective and dissolved to nothing. I wouldn't even mind paying a service to do this if that is the best way. I don't mind DIY and putting some physical labor into it. I just want what would be effective.)

Q4: I see I'm frequently alkaline TA= between 120-180 according to the strip. Is it normal to have to constantly be adding MurAcid?

I'm truly grateful for your help. I could afford a pool service, but prefer to be a DIY pool gal. Happy to bring a service professional in when it makes sense, but I love understanding and troubleshooting myself!

 

[Divin Dave]

Hi, and welcome to TFP. Its a great forum and when it comes to pool, folks know what they are talking about.

I'll try and help with some questions.

Q1. The TF 100 test kit, is hands down the best value. it has more of the test regents the homeowner will need for pool testing.
TFTestkits.net

Q2. Test the water regularly with the TF 100 and keep your chemical levels at the TFP recommendations.
Pool School - Recommended Levels

Q3. I dont have any experience with scrubbing off scale, but Im sure others will chime in about that. To control the scale or eliminate it, keep your calcium and ph within the TFP recommended levels.

Q4. Muratic acid lowers the pH of the pool. TA acts as a buffer to pH and slows down the pH rise. If you kept your TA considerably lower, you might not have to add Muratic to the pool as often. There is no exact number of TA to aim for. Different pools act differently due the plaster content, CH of the water and other variables..., so a bit of trial and error might be in order for your pool to find it's happy place. Generally, a lower TA, maybe in the order of 60 or 70 would be a good place to start.

I would recommend also, how to use Pool Math so you can determine how much of something to add to your pool. It makes pool care easy.
PoolMath

I hope this helps,

 

[kellyfair]

In here to second the TF100, and for ease of testing (and to make it more fun) get the speedstir too!

 

[funandsun]

You won't go wrong with either test, a lot of folks use the TF-100, I have the Taylor K-2006. I had ordered it before I met TFP. It has served me in battle very well. But like I said, you can't go wrong with either.