Since the amps are ok, I suspect that everything is ok. However, I would like to know what Zodiac says.
Question about swg performance
- Thread starter jan verbeem
- Start date
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I Have sent email to both support and sales department, but no answer forthcoming. Looks like Zodiac isn't that much interested in customer support.
On the back of the control unit is written O/P 25.5V dc - 7.2A.
So today I tested with the flow switch bypassed and no cell connected, and measured 25.5 V
Next I connected again to the cell as normal with flow switch connected and measured 16.9V
When I switch off the pump the output voltage increase steadily, but I only get to just over 20V before the water in the cell housing has evaporated to a level that the no flow light will light up.
Any comments on my update welcome.
On the back of the control unit is written O/P 25.5V dc - 7.2A.
So today I tested with the flow switch bypassed and no cell connected, and measured 25.5 V
Next I connected again to the cell as normal with flow switch connected and measured 16.9V
When I switch off the pump the output voltage increase steadily, but I only get to just over 20V before the water in the cell housing has evaporated to a level that the no flow light will light up.
Any comments on my update welcome.
I got an answer from Zodiac.
Dear,
If you have an occassional "Output Fault" message showing on the display and the fan sometimes fails, it means that the power supply pcb may be on its way out. If you are still able to use the unit, just observe from time to time your chlorine levels.
With regards to the voltage output on the cell, it should be around the 20V range but the most important factor there is that you are getting 7.2A output. That means the cell will be producing the correct current to produce the chlorine.
Since my cell housing is transparent I can see when the cell is producing a lot of chlorine gas or not.
The cell is also self cleaning and I can set every 2.5 hours or 5 hours, but I can as well manually reverse the polarity.
Now I notice that after about 2 hours the cell starts to produce significant less of chlorine gas. When I manually reverse the polarity the amount of chlorine gas created is visibly a lot more.
I also notice that if I set the reverse to 5 hours the pool will get low in FC, but not so if I set to 2.5 hours.
The total hardness of my water is 150ppm, so it can't be that the cell has scaling after 2 hours.
The output voltage is 16.5V and current 7.4A, those figures don't change when the polarity is reversed.
Still trying to find out where my problem lays.
The cell is also self cleaning and I can set every 2.5 hours or 5 hours, but I can as well manually reverse the polarity.
Now I notice that after about 2 hours the cell starts to produce significant less of chlorine gas. When I manually reverse the polarity the amount of chlorine gas created is visibly a lot more.
I also notice that if I set the reverse to 5 hours the pool will get low in FC, but not so if I set to 2.5 hours.
The total hardness of my water is 150ppm, so it can't be that the cell has scaling after 2 hours.
The output voltage is 16.5V and current 7.4A, those figures don't change when the polarity is reversed.
Still trying to find out where my problem lays.
An update just in case anyone is still following this thread and can advise.
Today I received a new cell genuine Zodiac. I installed and measure the exact same voltage and current as on the old cell. 16.5V and 7.2A.
So I have also 2 power units and both give the same results.
Then what I discovered today.
I measure output voltage at the power supply connectors during normal operation and it is 16.5V.
While I measure the current, which I do by bypassing the black wire at the cell connection using crocodile clamps, the voltage will rise to 18V.
I connect the black wire again to the cell and voltage will decrease again to 16.5V
Both cells ( old and new) and both power units give the exact same measurements give or take 0.2V.
Is there an explanation for that?
What intrigues me the most is that the troubleshooter says voltage should be 21 -24V and Zodiac has answered it should be around 20V.
Today I received a new cell genuine Zodiac. I installed and measure the exact same voltage and current as on the old cell. 16.5V and 7.2A.
So I have also 2 power units and both give the same results.
Then what I discovered today.
I measure output voltage at the power supply connectors during normal operation and it is 16.5V.
While I measure the current, which I do by bypassing the black wire at the cell connection using crocodile clamps, the voltage will rise to 18V.
I connect the black wire again to the cell and voltage will decrease again to 16.5V
Both cells ( old and new) and both power units give the exact same measurements give or take 0.2V.
Is there an explanation for that?
What intrigues me the most is that the troubleshooter says voltage should be 21 -24V and Zodiac has answered it should be around 20V.
WASP
0
Perhaps the connector has a high resistance and causes a voltage drop when plugged together. Can you clean the connector and assemble with dielectric silicon grease.
Perhaps the connector has a high resistance and causes a voltage drop when plugged together. Can you clean the connector and assemble with dielectric silicon grease.
I would assume if the connector has a high resistance, that resistance would even increase with only 1.5mm wire with crocodile clamps used as bypass.
But what I forgot to add in my previous post is that apart from 2 power unis and 2 cells, I also have 2 sets of cell lead cables, and I have tried both with the same result.
I really don't get my head around this.
Supply voltage is 220V 50Hz.
Since both PSU's and cells all give identical results, it would indicate as no error, but why does Zodiac support and their trouble shooter all indicate that the output voltage should be significantly higher.
It is also a question to me why, with a water hardness of <150ppm, that both cells show a lot of chlorine gas right after polarity reversal but which decreases gradually to almost none visible after 2.5 hour.
Current and voltage don't change during that period.
Since both PSU's and cells all give identical results, it would indicate as no error, but why does Zodiac support and their trouble shooter all indicate that the output voltage should be significantly higher.
It is also a question to me why, with a water hardness of <150ppm, that both cells show a lot of chlorine gas right after polarity reversal but which decreases gradually to almost none visible after 2.5 hour.
Current and voltage don't change during that period.
Don't know why the voltage is lower than spec. As long as amps are good, it's probably fine.
Don't know why bubbles slow down.
Don't know why bubbles slow down.
Chriso
0
, I have a SWG and just bought an intellichlor generator and the Pentair Superflo VS pump. I'm overwhelmed with how to operate this. My pool guy told me to run it at low rpms (1400), but I did overnight and the flow light and low salt light were flashing red this morning. I am now running at 2000rpms and everything seems fine. Does chlorine get produced more at higher rpms? The pool store said to never run lower than 2400rpms, bc the pump isn't circulating water properly. This doesn't sound right to me. My main question is, how long should/could I be running the pump for to produce ideal free chlorine levels all while saving a good amount of money?
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