Pump leaks at the 2" inlet when turned off

[JamesW]

Ok, you have a Hayward Super II.

I thought that you might have a Tristar. In any case, you should get the high temperature unions

 

[miamicuse]

Ok, you have a Hayward Super II.

I thought that you might have a Tristar.

Is that a Haywood Super II pump? The metal plate on the tank body is worn, but I can make out the model number being SP5???X15AZ where the ??? could be [Q or O or 0] [ L or 1] [Q or O or 0].

But that lid when closed in that position I can't fit the plastic handle over the plastic thing on the lid to open it.

 

[JamesW]

Probably SP3010X15AZ.

 

[miamicuse]

In any case, you should get the high temperature unions

I am going to get the high temp unions. This is an eye opener I didn't even know these fittings exist! Thanks so much for this information I am going to rework the piping. I think I will replace the pump inlet and outlet joints with these unions. I am also thinking the inlet to the Haywood filter where I have a 90 could use this union.

The only other one I am wondering about that may be prone to leaking (it's not leaking now) is where all the pipes come together to a Jandy valve and leading to the 2" going to the pump. There I have a male adapter, one end solvent welded to the Jandy valve. The other end is a female adapter connected to a 2" PVC pipe leading to the pump inlet. See the picture below.

If I unthread the female adapter from that male adapter. clean up all the pipe sealant on the threads, can I use half of a high temp union onto that male adapter and get a good seal? In other words, use the left side of the high temp union to connect to the male adapter, if that works then I can easily take apart the entire pipe segment between that Jandy valve and the pump inlet. Hope I am making sense.

 

[JamesW]

What you're proposing won't work. You would need a female threaded union or adapter.

If necessary you can cut flush with the valve and the outside of the valve will take the next size up from the internal pipe size.

The internal size looks like 2", so the outside would take a 2.5" slip coupling.

You can use a coupling and a reducer bushing to get back to 2" or a reducer coupling.

429-292 - Spears 429-292 - 2-1/2" x 2" PVC Schedule 40 Reducer Coupling

Spears 429-292 - 2-1/2" x 2" PVC Schedule 40 Reducer Coupling - PVC Schedule 40 Coupling

www.supplyhouse.com

 

[miamicuse]

The Jandy valve connection OD will let me solvent weld a size up from 2"? That's good to know. I just read on their web site these valves are made by CPVC, so I need to use CPVC cement and not regular PVC cement I think.

So one option is to solvent weld a 2.5" to that, leaving the short stub of the male adapter inside but cut flushed. Then reduce from 2.5 back to 2", a short piece of 2" then the high temp union.

Will this fitting work to connect to the existing 2" male adapter?

Waterway Pump Union Assembly - 2" - 400-5670

Or is this just a nut for a union and so it's the same as what I originally suggested but won't work?

 

[JamesW]

Once you get back to 2" pipe, just use a regular slip x slip union. Schedule 40 or schedule 80 will work.

You only need high temp unions at the pump.

You might even be able to use a 2-1/2" slip x slip union glued to the outside of the valve. Then, reduce to 2" with a bushing.

Make sure that the union won't interfere with the operation of the valve.

ERA SCH 80 PVC 2-1/2 INCH UNION (SOCKET): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

ERA SCH 80 PVC 2-1/2 INCH UNION (SOCKET): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[miamicuse]

Got it, thank you JamesW!

I have to check to see if the bigger union will be in the way of the valve levers. I bet the union's bigger nut on the outlet connection will also prevent me from using the handle to open the lid if the lid was placed in that orientation.

 

[miamicuse]

OK before I order the high temp unions, one final question about the pump basket cover.

Since these unions will have a bigger nut, and it will thread and bottom on the inlet connection, like what I am showing in a red circle below.

Right now, there is a 30 degree "zone" when the cover is tightened, my Haywood cover wrench will not fit over the lid because the male adapter to the outlet is in the way.

These high temp unions will most likely prevent me from opening the cover with the wrench?

 

[JamesW]

They have long neck unions that give you more room. I think that you might be able to get the top to end up at 90 degrees to where it is by starting the threads differently. Are the fittings 1.5" or 2"?

 

[miamicuse]

These are all 2" fittings.

The cover will end up in that position regardless where you start threading it in.

It closes snug in that position. But my pool maintenance guy will turn it another 10 degrees or so and when it's over tightened and I can't use a wrench it's frustrating.

 

[miamicuse]

What you're proposing won't work. You would need a female threaded union or adapter.

If necessary you can cut flush with the valve and the outside of the valve will take the next size up from the internal pipe size.

The internal size looks like 2", so the outside would take a 2.5" slip coupling.

You can use a coupling and a reducer bushing to get back to 2" or a reducer coupling.

429-292 - Spears 429-292 - 2-1/2" x 2" PVC Schedule 40 Reducer Coupling

Spears 429-292 - 2-1/2" x 2" PVC Schedule 40 Reducer Coupling - PVC Schedule 40 Coupling

www.supplyhouse.com

JamesW, I got the high temp unions in so now I have all the necessary pieces except one.

I am still trying to decide on how to make the connection to the 2" male adapter coming out of the Jandy valve on the suction side.

From your previous suggestion, one option to have a better seal on this threaded connection is to cut the male adapter flushed with the 2" outlet at the valve (or even leaving it in place), solvent weld a 2.5"X2" reducer coupling to the outside of the valve outlet, then do rigid piping to the inlet of the pump where I will use a high temp union. I emailed Jandy asking if I should use CPVC or PVC cement to join to the valve and they said definitely CPVC cement as the valves are made from CPVC.

My other option is to change the current threaded seal using a female adapter to a gasket seal (kind of like the high temp union). Using half of a high temp union won't work as you pointed out. I wonder if this one they call a "half union adapter", will this one work? Will this provide a gasket seal onto a 2" male adapter, or is this just another "half of a union"?

Pentair 42001-0402 - Half Union Package 2" Slp

Amazon.com : Pentair 42001-0402 2-Inch Slip Half Union Package Replacement Sta-Rite Max-E-Therm Pool and Spa Heater : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com : Pentair 42001-0402 2-Inch Slip Half Union Package Replacement Sta-Rite Max-E-Therm Pool and Spa Heater : Patio, Lawn & Garden

www.amazon.com

 

[JamesW]

The half union won't work.

You can use pvc or cpvc glue.

 

[miamicuse]

I received the four hi-temp unions I ordered. I used two of them today to replace the connection at the 2" inlet and 2"outlet sides of the pump. The leak stopped (for now, don't know if it will again after the pool guy come to do his weekly maintenance and shift, bump and jerk all the piping).

I then used the other two hi-temp unions to replace the connections at my other pump (for a fish pond).

I also would like to change out the current threaded 2" connections into and out of the pool filter. I guess I do not need a hi-temp one? Do they make a union like this (2", with a 2" male gasket seal on one end, and a 2" slip connection on the other) that is non hi-temp? Or should I just get two more of the hi-temp versions?

 

[JamesW]

Just use the hi-temp unions.

 

[miamicuse]

Just use the hi-temp unions.

Will do, thanks again!

 

[KDpoolguy]

Just to revisit this topic, I’ve had success fixing a leaking glued joint by cutting a 1/2” off a 2” coupling. I’d then cut that in half and Priming and glueing and placing each coupling half Over the leak and pressing it close to the joint. They sell kits like this for smaller irrigation leaks.

 

[Oly]

I'm thinking that you could reduce the need to remove your pump filter basket lid by trapping more debris at your skimmer basket using hair nets or skimmer socks.

 

[KDpoolguy]

Did this repair today for a leaky joint at the pressure side going to the spa. It’s only on at night when I’m running the spillover spillway you filter the spa, so I didn’t see it until recently. Cut 2” coupling and wrap around and prime and glue and no more joint leak.