Pump burned out?

jstblush

0
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 3, 2015
261
Pasco, WA
Our pump quit working the day before yesterday. I told my husband and he went out the next day and it was magically working again. Yea! Then later that day it stopped again and has not come back on. Anyway, I need a little (lot) of help! I need to know a good pump to buy and I think ours is a single speed. Should we switch to a 2 speed or just stick with what we have? Is there a lot to change (in connections) if we go with a 2 speed or will it hook up the same?
Thank you and here are a couple pictures.
Sherry
IMG_1815-001.jpgIMG_1817-001.jpg
 
Hi jst, I recently replaced my single speed Hayward with a new Pentair Intellipro VS 3hp and absolutely love it. I run mine at 1500rpm (saving lots of electricity as compared to my single speed 1hp running at 3600rpm). Based on my calcs, it should pay for itself in 2yrs max based on electrical savings. It is a little pricey up front, but I was able to get a very good deal on it when I replaced the existing sand filter I had with a new cartridge filter (love it too, polishes the water better than my sand filter). Looks like we had the same setup with 244-T and Hayward 1hp pump.

The easy/cheap solution is to replace the motor on your existing pump (pump is more than likely just fine). If you go this route, I would make sure to change the mechanical seal while you have everything apart. If you want to upgrade the system, 2 speed is next option followed by a variable speed stepping in costs.

If you physically change out the pump, the changes are going to be mainly in pvc piping changes unless the new system is same footprint and would be plug/play. Just make sure you purchase same voltage motor that you currently run and the breaker is rated correctly for new pump. Hope this helps.
 
Hi jst, I recently replaced my single speed Hayward with a new Pentair Intellipro VS 3hp and absolutely love it. I run mine at 1500rpm (saving lots of electricity as compared to my single speed 1hp running at 3600rpm). Based on my calcs, it should pay for itself in 2yrs max based on electrical savings. It is a little pricey up front, but I was able to get a very good deal on it when I replaced the existing sand filter I had with a new cartridge filter (love it too, polishes the water better than my sand filter). Looks like we had the same setup with 244-T and Hayward 1hp pump.

The easy/cheap solution is to replace the motor on your existing pump (pump is more than likely just fine). If you go this route, I would make sure to change the mechanical seal while you have everything apart. If you want to upgrade the system, 2 speed is next option followed by a variable speed stepping in costs.

If you physically change out the pump, the changes are going to be mainly in pvc piping changes unless the new system is same footprint and would be plug/play. Just make sure you purchase same voltage motor that you currently run and the breaker is rated correctly for new pump. Hope this helps.

Question - I always thought if you had a 1 HP pump, you should stay with a 1 HP pump. I see you went from 1 HP to a 3 HP which is a huge difference. is that because you went from a single speed to a Variable Speed?
 
I probably oversized it to some degree as I start to hear cavitation in the pump above 3300rpm (3590rpm is max). But based on the VS pump curve, I still wanted optimal flow/head at lower speed which this gave me. The VS is nice because you can set the min/max speed to prevent cavitation damage during startup/priming. I could have went with a smaller pump but based on looking at the curves and my circulation, it looked like I would have to run at higher speeds which would consume more electricity. The VS pump curves are different than a fixed speed pump, in that flow/total head are different for a given speed. You obviously have to take into account the frictional losses/pressure drops across your piping system/equipment, but based on my research, this looked like a good fit for me and the cost difference wasn't as large as I thought.
 
I noticed on my picture that it says A.O. Smith Corp. I thought our pump was a Hayward? It's a 1 HP. Maybe Bill replaced the last one with something else. This stuff just confuses me so I hope Bill understands it when he gets home. I know he can replace with same size and type...not too sure about any changes to 2 speed or variable. And I really just want the pump to stir my chlorine instead of me...hahaha
Thank you! I'm tired of stirring the pool with the pole!:stirpot:
Sherry
 
Thank you Aubie. That's what it looked like when I was looking up replacements but wasn't positive. ;) Do you think a 2 speed would save any decent amount of electricity to make it worth my while? Also, he runs the pump 24/7 and I know you don't have to do that. But, sometimes it's easier than arguing the fact. :) Although we were gonna try to dial the run time down just before the pump quit working. :(
Sherry

- - - Updated - - -

Also, do you know what made the top look so orange?
 
I probably oversized it to some degree as I start to hear cavitation in the pump above 3300rpm (3590rpm is max). But based on the VS pump curve, I still wanted optimal flow/head at lower speed which this gave me. The VS is nice because you can set the min/max speed to prevent cavitation damage during startup/priming. I could have went with a smaller pump but based on looking at the curves and my circulation, it looked like I would have to run at higher speeds which would consume more electricity. The VS pump curves are different than a fixed speed pump, in that flow/total head are different for a given speed. You obviously have to take into account the frictional losses/pressure drops across your piping system/equipment, but based on my research, this looked like a good fit for me and the cost difference wasn't as large as I thought.

Thanks for the info. Assuming the flow/head is equal, what's the difference between running a 3 HP at low speed vs running a 1 HP at higher speed in terms of efficiently/cost and wear and tear on the pump?
 
Yes for sure a 2 speed is going to save you money in electricity (most of the manufacturers have electricity cost calculators on their website that you could get an idea of what you can save with the different variations). Ideally you would only need to run it on high speed when you need a good skim of pool surface or if you have a booster pump for an in pool cleaner system. Otherwise, it would probably be sufficient to run on low speed most of time.
 
It looks like it's exposed to the elements. (orange rust on your pump motor)

Pretty common occurrence. It get's rained on then beaten down on by the sun possibly.
over time it starts rusting.

What surprised me is how clean your bonding wire is! (that bare wire fastened to the pump)

If there is a way to get a closeup photo or read out that i.d. plate on the pump body itself,
I'm sure someone here can tell you what exact replacement motor is needed for an easy
low cost replacement.

You could probably get by just fine only running the pump 2 hours a day.
That's what I've been doing the last 2 years.
 

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borjis,
I went out and tried to get the read out on the plate but it is gone! I looked at our original papers and found this owner's guide with a number of IS-3005X7-97. The only thing is, we installed in 1998 so I can't remember if that is still the same one we have now. I will have to ask Bill when he gets home.

And you really only run your pump for 2 hours a day??? Ours is on basically 24/7. I would probably save a TON just dialing down the run times! And is it okay to keep turning it on and off that often? Is it hard on any of the parts? That would be amazing!
Sherry
 
people can and do run their pumps twice a day with a timer or longer times for these reasons:

skimming if they get a huge load of tree stuff dropping in

if they have an swg (salt chlorine generator) in this case, you do have to run
much longer than 2 hours to make sure enough chlorine is generated and that
requires the pump running to do so.


Ya it's true...only 2 hours per day!
When my pool is in use, generally on weekends, I do run it most of the day though.

if you search for pump run time threads here you will see many posts by folks asking how long the pump has to run.

It's not about turnover....thats a myth...it's about adequately circulating
your water/chemicals around and just keeping the water clean.

In your situation I would bet anything more than 2 hours a day during the week is wasting electricity.



I'm pretty positive that number would indicate you have this pump:
Hayward Super Pump II 3/4HP
Model: SP-3005X7

There are others more knowledgeable about which 3/4 hp motor you could replace it
with, but I think the correct one must be somewhere on this page (see the item 15 list of 3/4 hp rated motors)

Hayward Super II Parts - INYOPools.com
 
Wow, when I get the pump fixed I'll for sure have to experiment with run times! But we don't have a timer hooked up. But I think Bill said we have one, it's just not hooked up. ;( I saw that pump too, but I think ours is 1HP, nor 3/4HP.

So it won't hurt anything to manually turn the pump off and on?
Sherry
 
It's me again. :confused: We were wondering if anyone can tell us how to fix a leak where the blue stuff is at in the picture. It's not a threaded end. We just replaced the pump motor and that's working fine. Does this leak mean we have to replace the pump now too or can it be fixed?
Thanks,
Sherry
IMG_1898.jpg
 
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