Problems with FC again

TeenaTeens

Bronze Supporter
Apr 25, 2022
301
Tampa FL
Pool Size
12200
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
FC has become increasingly more difficult to balance since a bag of salt dropped in a couple of weeks ago caused it drop overnight. I discovered it immediately, topped up FV and It passed the OCLT at that time, but I’ve noticed my SWG is not working as it should. Super chlorinated for 24 hours with a rise of only a few ppm yesterday. so performed OCLT again last night which failed. Water is clear. I can’t understand what’s happening with this pool right now. Only drop in FC was that one incident which I found immediately and fixed. I clean my filter monthly, although will do it again today. I maintain my FC 7.5 - 10% of CyA. I keep CYA between 60-70 (my pool is enclosed with UV protection screens)

Just brought pool to SLAM level and will do that until it passes the OCLT. Ugggh.

On another note, Can I add some salt while slamming? Lots of rain has it at 3000 and I thought better to risk contamination while at slam level, rather than once it’s good again.
 
Sorry to hear of your troubles 😩
I feel like it’s hiding somewhere 🧐 just waiting for its chance to shine…
Have you checked all the possible offenders?

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, etc.)
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.

Is your enclosure dirty & introducing organics when it rains? That’s been an issue for folks in the past.
Are you checking fc at different times of the day to be sure you’re covered? How do you run your pump & swcg? Around the clock or on a schedule?
Your logs show that 8 days ago your fc went below minimum.
You can add salt any time. Slam or no.
If its more than a bag or so turn the swcg off until it’s mixed well.
Otherwise make sure you put the salt away from the intake/turn off the main drain while it gets mixed so you don’t get a slug of high salinity water in your cell.
 
Sorry to hear of your troubles 😩
I feel like it’s hiding somewhere 🧐 just waiting for its chance to shine…
Have you checked all the possible offenders?

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, etc.)
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.

Is your enclosure dirty & introducing organics when it rains? That’s been an issue for folks in the past.
Are you checking fc at different times of the day to be sure you’re covered? How do you run your pump & swcg? Around the clock or on a schedule?
Your logs show that 8 days ago your fc went below minimum.
You can add salt any time. Slam or no.
If its more than a bag or so turn the swcg off until it’s mixed well.
Otherwise make sure you put the salt away from the intake/turn off the main drain while it gets mixed so you don’t get a slug of high salinity water in your cell.
I test all over the place. Morning and night and during the day sometimes. All reagents are newly replaced. The drop in FC was the result of a bag of salt beleive it or not! A year since I last slammed with no issues whatsoever, added a bag of salt, and the FC completely disappeared overnight. I tested it first thing in the morning and caught it thankfully, but it’s pretty hot here, so seems I didn’t get away with it at all.

I have checked everywhere - there is no algae. The pool is spotless. The cage is clean - in fact cleaned professionally once a year and 6 weeks ago was the last time. Pools and cage are only 15 months old. I run the pump all day from 6-8 4 hours of that is on 100% the rest is at 50%.

I’ll scrub again today. Just frustrating. I think the salt bag introduced contaminants - but my CC is 0. 🤷🏻‍♀️🤷🏻‍♀️🤷🏻‍♀️
 
Can you post a complete set of current test results? When did you add the salt? What does your water look like?
I have - tested yesterday and today. Just tested FC again and added a slight bit more to get it to SLAM.
 

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I have - tested yesterday and today. Just tested FC again and added a slight bit more to get it to SLAM.
PH is a bit low as I added MA yesterday to drop my TA back to 60. I’m struggling to keep it at 60 tho. It creeps back up to 70 every couple of weeks. I had flakes (see my post) arrive a few weeks ago at 80.
 
PH is a bit low as I added MA yesterday to drop my TA back to 60. I’m struggling to keep it at 60 tho. It creeps back up to 70 every couple of weeks. I had flakes (see my post) arrive a few weeks ago at 80.
Dropping it to 60 got rid of them.
 

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We're posting over each other.

Since you have initiated a SLAM, continue that SLAM until you meet the requirements to stop it.......
1. Your Pool water is crystal clear with no visible sign of algae
2. You passed the OCLT losing not more than 1 ppm of FC
3. Your CC's test is either .5 ppm or 0 ppm.

Keep the FC at SLAM until the cloudiness clears up in your pool, Then, let the FC come down to maintenance level and perform the OCLT.
 
And the water is slightly cloudy. As of today. Clear yesterday
Seriously I’m stumped - I tend this pool religiously. Follow TFP to a T. I test daily with water guru sense 2 (way more accurate than sense 1 for FC and Ph BTW) and back that up and compare with Taylor’s testing 2-3 times a week. I clean my cartridge monthly and run the filter 10 hours a day, 4 of those on 100%, the rest on 50%. The salt cell is new (replaced on warranty for other reasons having trouble with the app responsiveness for chlorinator), low bather load - two adults swimming for 15 minutes daily. I’ve had zero issues since my last slam last year when water went cloudy twice, but I was new to looking after it, and thought I had learned my lessons. Apart from the flakes recently which I fixed immediately.
 
Don't worry about the TA as anywhere between 50 and 120 is ok and it's the PH that you need to keep in the 7s. How do you know the salt cell is working maybe it's not putting out anywhere close what it supposed to. Worry only about the slam for now once you have the PH @7.2 while measuring make sure the FC isn't above 10.
 
If the salt from July 1 was a cause for contamination, it is LONG GONE. I assume you haven't added same brand of salt, right?

It seems to me you are over testing. Your regimen is fine if you want to keep it but I would back off a little. My suggestion would be FC daily with an OTO test. Then, pH, TA weekly and CH and CYA monthly. That's a very adequate regimen.

Because of the cloudiness, I assume you are running the pump 24/7, right? What RPM?

What do you think caused the cloudiness today?
 
Don't worry about the TA as anywhere between 50 and 120 is ok and it's the PH that you need to keep in the 7s. How do you know the salt cell is working maybe it's not putting out anywhere close what it supposed to. Worry only about the slam for now once you have the PH @7.2 while measuring make sure the FC isn't above 10.
It is a new salt cell and I’ve been struggling keeping the FC stable since it was out in. I will give the techs a call once I have slammed to be sure that’s in fact the issue. How can I test it apart from testing from the returns?

Not sure what caused the cloudiness - no drop in FC, no bather load at all, I have been running my filter for two days 24/7 at 75%. I’ve turned it up to 100% today.

And the advice on this page was to keep my TA at 60 to avoid the flakes again. My water stays between 86 and 88 degrees - we still heat it to 88 most mornings. My Ph is never above 7.9. So I’ve been trying to keep it at 60 hence all the testing, but it isn’t working out very well.
 
I don't see any reason to run your pump that high. Theoretically, it can force contaminants back out into the pool. (cloudiness?)

Most folks with VS pumps run 24/7 around 30% (I think) and then ONLY run on high to prime when needed.

You will also save a LOT of electricity.
 

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