Problem with Old Goldline green PC board with 20 amp fuse.

waltiti

Member
May 27, 2015
10
psl,fl
Hi guys,

I was reading the forum and I find some info but not the solution for my board after following all steps.

I have an old Goldline PCboard green control with the 20 amp fuse on the right bottom side
And I have the common issue of the power light ON only and don't generate chlorine.
Fuse is ok, anyway, I replace it, but the issue still there.

The readings are : ( I think they are in metrics )
29
30.8
85P
-0.00
al-8
r1.40
0.00

The readings on the pool store said:
* NO chlorine
* 2700 salt level.

Do I need to replace the whole board? or how to fix it?

I attach some pics maybe you can see something I can't, but the thermistor/Varistor shape part looks ok, is not cracked.

Not sure if I remove and re-install the fuse with the power on will shock the board and start to run ok like @chris640 do on this thread.
Aquarite Chlorine Generator Power Light Only

Thanks for the help in advance guys, always something happens when pool season starts LOL !!!!
 

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JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
14,424
I think that the problem is the AL-8 setting. Go to that setting and move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto until the setting is AL-0.

If it won't change, you probably need a new board.
 
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waltiti

Member
May 27, 2015
10
psl,fl
Im already tries that, auto-super-auto a couple of times to reset, but nothing happens, also I can't hear the click the board does after you turn on or after you do the auto-super-auto cycle.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
14,424
If you tried to change the AL-8 to AL-0 and it wouldn't change, then I think that you need a new board.
 
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waltiti

Member
May 27, 2015
10
psl,fl
So, to change the AL-8 to AL-0 , I have to do auto-superchlorinator-auto onky, 1 time, several times , I have to select AL- 8 and do the auto-super-auto, or how..?

thanks
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
14,424
Select AL-8 and move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto until the setting changes to AL-0.

If it won't change, you need a new board.
 

waltiti

Member
May 27, 2015
10
psl,fl
I just trying to do the auto-super-auto and I see the Thermistor/limiter is cracked at the top around the circle, that could be the issue ?????
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
14,424
It looks like it's going bad, but I think that the reason that it's not turning on is the AL-8 setting.

I don't know what the AL-8 means.

AL-0 is AquaRite
AL-1 NatureSoft
AL-2 MineralSprings
AL-3 SmartPure
AL-4 This changes the default display from average salt to percent output.
AL-5 This is used with Jandy automation
AL-6 and AL-7 are used on the aquatrol, which is an aquarite with a timer for above ground pools.

There might be a way to change the setting back to AL-0, but I don't know how.

Maybe Hayward can advise on how to do it.

I suspect that the setting got changed due to spurious voltage spikes from a display board not making good contact with the long pins from the main board.

That's probably what changed the setting to metric.

You can replace the thermistor if you like, but I think that the system will not work unless you can change the AL-8 back to AL-0.

 

chiefwej

LifeTime Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 12, 2011
3,386
Tucson
Looking carefully at your picture, the thermistor appears to have a crack running almost half way around the edge.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
14,424
The crack was noted and does indicate that the thermistor is failing.

However, unless you can get the setting back to AL-0, I don't think that it's going to work.
 
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