Preparing for RJ30 install -bonding, anode questions

[Matt_PEBKAC_Oh]

Tried to cram for the upcoming SWG install. I know where I'm putting the cell, flow switch and controller. Planning to get a timer to include with setup (never had one, always 25/7 setup).

I have an inground fiberglass pool. We have a natural gas heater after the filter. I have a light in a niche which I am sure was safely installed, never have had any issues getting shocked by it. The only other metal in the pool is the old, stainless steel ladder that I am looking to replace with the white coated units, including the grab bar by the steps.

Reading many articles here and posts about anodes for SWG. What is the best design, how and where to put it? Do I need anything to protect the heater or swimmers from any issues with adding the SWG?

 

[cowboycasey]

No need for anodes, what you are changing out will help the most and no trouble at all with fiberglass.. Just put the SWG after everything else... Do you have a heater bypass? if not this is a perfect time to install one when the SWG goes in

You will add the SWG into the copper bonding grid, there is a bonding lug on it

 

[Matt_PEBKAC_Oh]

No and no idea.

Pump, filter, heater, then out to pool. No check valves, not bypasses. SWG last out of the shoot, after the heater.

I have never seen anything about bonding around the pool. Only standard electrical gounding. 1st pic is main circuit with a gfi breaker in the main box. Heater has an outlet tied to same circuit.

 

[DeanP66]

Your pool light, if installed correctly should be installed on a GFI circuit or to a GFI electrical outlet. You can test it by turning on your pool light and then clicking the test button on your GFI outlet. If installed correctly, the light should go off. Press the other button on the GFI outlet (reset) and light should come back on. Then you know it's working right and you're protected.

 

[mguzzy]

No and no idea.

Pump, filter, heater, then out to pool. No check valves, not bypasses. SWG last out of the shoot, after the heater.

I have never seen anything about bonding around the pool. Only standard electrical gounding. 1st pic is main circuit with a gfi breaker in the main box. Heater has an outlet tied to same circuit.

You have to have a bonding wire going to your pool pump and heater.. its code, unless it was a backwoods Pennsyltucky installation. The controller box will have a bonding lug, the SWG cell that goes in the return line won't. (at least I have not seen any on the ones I know of) ...

 

[Matt_PEBKAC_Oh]

Your pool light, if installed correctly should be installed on a GFI circuit or to a GFI electrical outlet. You can test it by turning on your pool light and then clicking the test button on your GFI outlet. If installed correctly, the light should go off. Press the other button on the GFI outlet (reset) and light should come back on. Then you know it's working right and you're protected.

Yes, pool light is on GFI as I made sure of that when I wired it. Put a handy switch near the deck door.

 

[Matt_PEBKAC_Oh]

Not sure if there is a grid for bonding. I have replaced and rebuilt the pump, even replaced the heater a few years back. Its connected to the metal pipe gas line. I have never had a wire on the bonding lug of the pumps. Haven't seen a bond wire setup anywhere around the pool.

I guess I need some advice on bonding pump, heater and new salt system.

 

[Matt_PEBKAC_Oh]

I just reviewed my pictures I was able to get during construction back in 2006. I never saw a grid but there may have been something since I missed that part of the install. They had to install the light niche but who knows what is on that side. In one photo with the pool filling, you can see the white hose in the pool. That was the conduit used for the light. I do remember some wire put in the concrete patio but no idea what it was like, maybe just standard steel mesh that is put in sidewalks. Sorry for the grainy photos, that was with a Sony 1.3 mp camera back in 2006. I also attached original Ruud heater and pump. Never any bonding wires coming from those devices. That last photo, is a rare -in the wild Baquacil AD (automatic dosing) system.

 

[Matt_PEBKAC_Oh]

SWG and main parts plumbed in. Just need to get the controller mounted and wired. Still no idea about the bonding issue.

And, while in packing the controller, kept hearing something rolling around loose. I have to convert it to 120v so I discovered a transformer bolt had been stripped at the factory and was loose. I had to tighten the other three but couldn't get grip on the last bolt.

Plummbing and controller pics attached.