Power Requirements -New Install

Papadon

Silver Supporter
Jun 26, 2024
14
Central Texas
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Hi, New Member here:
I’m having a 20K gal pool installed with the following equipment:
Pentair Inteliflo Variable Speed and Flow 3hp Pump,
Pentair SD 80 Sand Filter,
Pentair Intelichlor IC60 SWG Cell,
Intelicor PC100 Salt Chlorine Power Center,
Pentair Ultratemp Heat/Cool 140KBTU.
Pal multi color single zone remote and transformer (64-PCR-1ZW-65)
Pal Evenglow Multi-Color Lights (3) (64-EGN-80)

I have found the following circuit breaker info:
20 amp for the pump
60 amp for the heater/chiller
Since the power center is to be tied into the pump I’m not sure what else is needed.
I assume a separate breaker for the pool lighting.
I would like a wall outlet there also for other uses and lighting
What other breakers do you recommend?
 
Pump and chlorinator can run off the same 240VAC 20A breaker.
Heater/cooler on its own 240VAC 60A breaker.
Lights and lighting system, outlets, on same GFCI 120VAC 15A breaker.

Are you going to use a mechanical timer or an automation system for the pump/chlorinator?
 
He will connect everything from the breaker box which I will install, but I’m responsible for running the power there from the main; about 50 feet away
 
I ran my own power when ours shorted one leg of the 220v 3 years ago. I had to run a new line all the way from my main breaker down the fence to the back and then across the back to the filter - about 130'. It took us two weekends between me and my uncle who is an electrician. We couldn't go under the pavers that are now down so we ran schedule 40 along the bottom edge of the stucco until we got to the lawn and trenched a 45 over to the fence. Trenching took out all our edge sprinkler pipes but we shortened those runs afterwards to bring the grass in away from the fences. Now I have a short "planter" built with 7" wall stones all along the trenched path and my sprinklers no longer spray my block wall which is now nicely painted.
 
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When my pool patio was redone, I redid the pool plumbing and electrical. I ran wire big enough for a 100A 240V subpanel. Better to have too much than not enough. To save I used direct burial aluminum service entrance cable instead of conduit and copper THWN. I had an excavator handy so trenching was easy for where it could reach. I still had to hand trench under a deck. Conduit would have been a challenge for my since I would have needed more than 360° of bends and I didn't want pull boxes where they would have been needed.

Run a network cable, coax, water line, sprinkler line, propane/NG line and any other lines if you can.

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Get the IntelliCenter with the integrated subpanel and the integrated SWG power supply.

Get a CCP420 cartridge filter.


 
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Hi Bill, nice work. I’m not familiar with this cable
A popular option for underground service cable is to use direct burial triplex aluminum. It is three stranded conductors bundled together. The neutral is typically one size smaller than the 2 hots. It is available in a variety of sizes including more than 3 conductors. It is fairly easy to work with and doesn''t require conduit except just before and aftet it comes out of the ground. Depending on your power configuration you might need to run a ground wire with it or use a cable that includes a ground. Search for triplex electrical cables.
 
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If you are going to be running 240 VAC, you will need 4 wires (two hots, neutral and ground).

Mobile Home Feeder Cable | WireAndCableYourWay.com

If you are using aluminum wire, make sure all your connection points are rated for aluminum wire. Also use anti-oxidation compound only where the instructions call for it. If terminals are not rated for aluminum wire, a pigtail of copper wire will need to be spliced in using a connector rated joint copper and aluminum wire.
 
When using aluminum wire or copper clad aluminum wire, the wire size (gauge) will need to be upsized to carry the same load as pure copper wire.

I believe @JamesW posted a wire gauge comparison chart some time back.

Check local codes to be sure of their requirements.
Also check your panels/equipment to see if they allow aluminum wire to be used.
 
You also have to factor in the Voltage Drop to keep it below 3% from the main house panel to the subpanel.

Example: For 60 amps at 100 feet of aluminum wire, you need #3 wire.

The ampacity of the wire depends on the temperature rating of the wire, but you cannot use the 90 degree C ampacity because breakers are not rated for 90 degrees C.

Breakers should not be loaded to more than 80%, so a 60 amp load will require a 75 amp breaker and wire rating.

Since 75 amp breakers are not common, you will probably need to go to 80 amps for the breaker and wire on a 60 amp expected load.

For 75 degree C aluminum, you need #2 wire rated at 90 amps.

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