Post build to swim time?

[alvindo]

So if everything holds up weather wise, we’ll finish our fiberglass install next week. Most likely though I think, we will finish by the 10th. The shell has had water in it for about a month. So it’s full of pollen and I think now it’s a full blown algae bloom. How long do you think it would take from build finish to get the pool ready to swim?

 

[Texas Splash]

How long do you think it would take from build finish to get the pool ready to swim?

That really could vary. I'll stick my neck out though and say this..... If you have your TF-Series test kit now (or Taylor K-2006C), you can start the SLAM Process immediately after the system has had a few hours to circulate water. Then after about 4-7 days you should start to see significant improvements. It may be 100% TFP-SLAM complete, but good enough where you can still maintain the elevated SLAM FC level and still swim. Even during the SLAM, you can swim as long as your FC does not exceed its SLAM level based on the CYA. In other words, if you add 30 ppm of stabilizer (via the sock method), your SLAM FC level would be 12. As long as you don't go over 12 and you can see the bottom of the pool, it's safe to swim.

 

[Texas Splash]

For your reference.

 

[alvindo]

Thanks for this. I just ordered the salt pro testing kit from TFtestkits. I’ve read the abcs of pool chemistry, but am not really sure what to dial in first. Should I go CYA then chlorine? Tackle everything at once?

 

[newdude]

You need CYA to help protect the FC from the sun, or else you'll be adding FC every 30 minutes. And lots of it.

So get 30 CYA going if none has been added once the pump is running.

Then get the PH to a low 7.

Then SLAM away.

 

[Texas Splash]

Should I go CYA then chlorine?

Easy stuff:
1- Let the water mix for a good 3-4 hours, then grab a sample. Your CYA will be zero and your FC next to nothing. The pH is what will probably need attention first.
2 - Lower the pH to about 7.2 with muriatic acid.
3 - Use the PoolMath to determine the dosage amount of stabilizer to increase the CYA from 0 to 30 ppm. Use a sock to pre-sock the stabilizer for about 30 min, then take it over to a return jet and squeeze all the mushy stabilizer out.
4 - Add 12 ppm worth of liquid chlorine and do your best to maintain the FC level of 12 while following all the tips on the SLAM page.

Be careful pouring the acid into the pool (splashing and wind direction). Store MA away from anything metal and everyone/pets. I keep mine outdoors in a Rubbermaid container. The summer heat won't bother it.

From there, it's all about diligence. Testing the FC as much as needed to stay around 12, and brushing/scrubbing the pool surfaces. Inspect everywhere and stay on it. You should see positive results consistently.

 

[alvindo]

You need CYA to help protect the FC from the sun, or else you'll be adding FC every 30 minutes. And lots of it.

So get 30 CYA going if none has been added once the pump is running.

Then get the PH to a low 7.

Then SLAM away.

Thank you. This is helpful. I know where all the chemicals have to be, but the order of which to attack first has been difficult to sort out.

 

[alvindo]

Easy stuff:
1- Let the water mix for a good 3-4 hours, then grab a sample. Your CYA will be zero and your FC next to nothing. The pH is what will probably need attention first.
2 - Lower the pH to about 7.2 with muriatic acid.
3 - Use the PoolMath to determine the dosage amount of stabilizer to increase the CYA from 0 to 30 ppm. Use a sock to pre-sock the stabilizer for about 30 min, then take it over to a return jet and squeeze all the mushy stabilizer out.
3 - Add 12 ppm worth of liquid chlorine and do your best to maintain the FC level of 12 while following all the tips on the SLAM page.

Be careful pouring the acid into the pool (splashing and wind direction). Store MA away from anything metal and everyone/pets. I keep mine outdoors in a Rubbermaid container. The summer heat won't bother it.

From there, it's all about diligence. Testing the FC as much as needed to stay around 12, and brushing/scrubbing the pool surfaces. Inspect everywhere and stay on it. You should see positive results consistently.

Thank you, very helpful. This is exactly what I was looking for.

 

[Texas Splash]

Also, once you actually get to step 4 above where you're adding chlorine, you don't have to test anything else like pH or TA until after the SLAM is completed. Even the CYA you probably don't need to test again unless you're just curious. The FC will be the most important for a while. Once the water starts to get really clear, then you might also test the CC test once in a while.

 

[alvindo]

Also, once you actually get to step 4 above where you're adding chlorine, you don't have to test anything else like pH or TA until after the SLAM is completed. Even the CYA you probably don't need to test again unless you're just curious. The FC will be the most important for a while. Once the water starts to get really clear, then you might also test the CC test once in a while.

I do have a question on this. For a fiberglass pool with a swg, I ultimately need to get to CYA levels 60-80 right? Do I do that after I’ve slammed it with cya at 30. Or do I gradually raise the cya to that higher level or try to do it in big slugs? Thanks again, very helpful.

 

[PoolStored]

AFTER Slam is completed.

Do it in increments as a learning experience. Best not overshoot...