Pool turned green in a day

New2water

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 28, 2011
141
Stockton, CA
Pool Size
18000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
We are having some palm trees being removed. The contractor tried to protect the pool with a screen tarp but still by the afternoon there was a lot of organic matter in the pool and it turned green in a few hours. Do I need to partially drain and replace the water to reduce dissolved solids before starting the SLAM?
 
We are having some palm trees being removed. The contractor tried to protect the pool with a screen tarp but still by the afternoon there was a lot of organic matter in the pool and it turned green in a few hours. Do I need to partially drain and replace the water to reduce dissolved solids before starting the SLAM?
You should scoop out as much junk as possible and start the SLAM at the same time. Also would be help to add your recent test results to your Poolmath account so you can track progress
 
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You should scoop out as much junk as possible and start the SLAM at the same time. Also would be help to add your recent test results to your Poolmath account so you can track progress
There’s no visible junk left in the pool. Started SLAM four days ago and have used 6 gallons of liquid Chlorine and today FC is again at Zero. Stains have again started forming on all the pool surfaces. TA tested at 220, pH at above 7.5 and CYA between 40-50. (Edited to clarify)
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I need to figure out my browser. Some of the links are not working for me. I can't view or download the Chlorine/CYA Chart.
Until it’s figured out, raise your chlorine to 20ppm and keep it there. Check it every 3 hours if you need to and redose it back up to 20 as needed. Keep doing that for the next few days until all three of these are true:
1. The algae is gone
2. An overnight chlorine loss test shows no more than 1.0 FC loss
3. The CC result is 0.5ppm or less

Do them in that order. It’ll likely take a few days or weeks depending on how bad the contamination is.
 
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If between two cya values round up for chlorination purposes - so your cya counts as 50 - slam level is 20ppm.
Along with what @Bperry said
Don’t forget to Do ALL the things
👇
*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide {light niches, steps (inside & out), drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, seam flaps, etc.}
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.
 
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I’m in this process. Algae is gone and pool water looks crystal clear.
I’ve added two gallons of higher concentration Muriatic Acid (31.45%) which brought pH to 7.5 but TA is at 120. Do I need to lower TA further by adding more acid?
 
Algae is gone and pool water looks crystal clear.
What about the OCLT ? It's critical, or its just a guess, and starting over in a few weeks SUCKS.


Do I need to lower TA further by adding more acid?
Up to you. It will come down on its own if you manage the PH in the high 7s and dose at 8+. If you want to speed it up, manage the PH as a low 7 and dose at high 7s. Each cycle will lower it some.
 
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I’m in this process. Algae is gone and pool water looks crystal clear.
I’ve added two gallons of higher concentration Muriatic Acid (31.45%) which brought pH to 7.5 but TA is at 120. Do I need to lower TA further by adding more acid?
Do not lower the pH below 7.0.
 
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