Pool store said this and I listened.....

Kev68ss

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May 2, 2010
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#1
OK- here's my readings- matched the pool store by the way-
CL 6
FC 0
CYA 60
TA 80
PH 7.6
Salt 3100 ppm

My temp is 82 and I have noticed the pool is getting darker blue, not crystal clear like it has been- rain recently- They said my phosphates were over 1000 and I needed phosphate remover and clarifier, so I bit the advice- I know, I probably got stuck, but what the heck.

Looking at my numbers, my water should be clear- was she right about the phosphates?? I guess I'll be able to tell in two days- said to backwash after 48 hrs. Any ideas? This happened last year after really bad rain- the water gets "dark" but not dirty looking if that makes sense.
 

RobbieH

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#2
She's right that they are in there, but wrong in telling you need to do something about them. Probably one of the most common pool store comments we talk about here.

Your CYA is a little low for your SWG. You need to be up around 70-80.

So am I reading that right, you have total chlorine of 6, but free chlorine of 0? Welcome to the shock process. pool-school/shocking_your_pool

Sorry, if those numbers are right, that's your problem.
 

duraleigh

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#3
You will not have a good experience trying to blend pool store's advice with our advice. You really should pick one or the other and go with it.

Something is wrong with your test results. How are you testing?
 

jblizzle

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#5
Follow the Shocking Your Pool process until you pass the 3 tests to stop.

For CYA of 60, you shock FC level is 24ppm ... stay above this at all times.

What kind of filter do you have? Add it to your signature please.
 

Kev68ss

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May 2, 2010
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#6
Added- I have a sand filter- not sure what size- big one.... Anyway, why are you thinking shock when I have a CL of 6, no signs of algea, and 0 CC? Just curious.

Thanks
 

jblizzle

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#7
Cloudy water can be a sign of something in the water ... which may not show up as CC.

If there is nothing growing, you will pass the 3 tests very quickly and can move on with enjoying your pool :)

EDIT: Or at least due the OCLT to first eliminate that nothing is living in the water ... does not have to be a shock level.
 

Butterfly

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#8
jblizzle said:
Cloudy water can be a sign of something in the water ... which may not show up as CC.

If there is nothing growing, you will pass the 3 tests very quickly and can move on with enjoying your pool :)

EDIT: Or at least due the OCLT to first eliminate that nothing is living in the water ... does not have to be a shock level.
Yep, totaly agree with Jason. :goodjob:


Kev68ss said:
OK- here's my readings- matched the pool store by the way-
What test kit are you using?
 

Kev68ss

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May 2, 2010
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#10
Test kit-TF100. Algea growing all over bottom today- I put the phosphate remover and clarifier in- pool did turn very clear, but the algae is there- will shock with bleach tonight- should I pour in skimmers- or all around pool?
Also, what does OCLT test mean?

Thanks-off to Wal Mart for Bleach
 

jblizzle

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#12
Also based on your last post it does not sound like you have read Pool School ... specifically the link Robbie and I previously posted.
 

LasVegasLawyer

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Jul 12, 2011
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#13
Kev68ss said:
Test kit-TF100. Algea growing all over bottom today- I put the phosphate remover and clarifier in- pool did turn very clear, but the algae is there- will shock with bleach tonight- should I pour in skimmers- or all around pool?
Also, what does OCLT test mean?

Thanks-off to Wal Mart for Bleach
OCLT is "Overnight Chlorine Loss Test." It is one of the three tests your pool needs to pass in order for you to end the shock process. You can just slowly pour the bleach in front of a return. Make sure your pump is running 24/7 during the shock process.

Remember, the BBB method is less about chlorinating with bleach and more about knowing why your pool needs the chlorine. In your case, you need to shock your pool because the rainwater may have introduced additional organic material, which used up your chlorine faster than your SWG could create it, resulting in a too-low FC level, which gave the algae a window of opportunity to bloom. Do you remember what your test results were right after the rain?
 

Kev68ss

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May 2, 2010
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#14
I have read the pool school advice- I had already put in clarifier, so I was past that. I am doing the shock treatment tonight. After the rain, my chlorine levels stayed at 6, they are at 7 now, so low cholrine wasn't the problem-that's where I got confused- all my numbers looked perfect- even the pool store said that- that's why I thought phospates were high, so I believed them- it did clear my water though! Anyway, I am doing the shocking method to 24 as described and brushing bottom, pump 24/7. Let's see what happened. Still confused on algae growth with CYA 60, FC 6 CC 0 and ph 7.6??
 

jblizzle

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#16
Smykowski said:
Target ranges assume a clean pool. If you have algae already, even if you maintain target levels, algae will overwhelm the chlorine. Keep shocking.
Yup. And if the FC EVER dropped down below your minimum or to 0 ... that would have allow the algae to start.
 

Kev68ss

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May 2, 2010
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Near Nashville TN
#17
OK- big algae growth now at very small on bottom of pool- continuing to brush and run pump 24/7. My bleach is keeping my ch very high- just went and tested and it was 40. Can't believe at levels like that I am having any growth at all. I want to make sure I'm not having a loss at night- (1) should I turn off my swg until loss is less tan 1 ppm? I actually hit the boost setting yesterday and believe that, plus the fact I'm running at 60%, is keeping ch high.

Water is getting much clearer now also. (2) Will the dead algae still be green on the bottom and can be vacuumed, or will it disappear all together?

Thanks again for the help on these 2 questions
 

jblizzle

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#18
Yes turn off the SWG.
I think most turns white when dead.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone :)
 

Kev68ss

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May 2, 2010
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#19
OK- I have had Ch levels over 30 for the last 3 1/2 days. PH is 7.2. Brushing daily as well as backwashed twice. Yes pool is looking pretty clear, not perfect. I have noticed places, especially in the seams where algae still is showing up- is this normal?? How can it grow with over 3 days at +30 CH levels??

Am I missing something?
 

frogabog

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#20
Around here (and elsewhere in pool land actually), CH refers to calcium hardness. We use TC and FC (Total Chlorine and Free Chlorine) to distinguish between chlorine and calcium hardness - FYI

Did you turn the SWG off? You're dosing with bleach how often, and with what quantities?

At 30ppm FC you're 6ppm ABOVE mustard algae shock level (for CYA of 60). No algae should be able to live through that. Your shock level is actually 15ppm according to the pool calculator so I'm not sure what's going on other than the concept that you're not actually at 30ppm, or maybe you're using the wrong reagents for testing.

Can you post a full set of results from your TF100 test kit? FC, TC, pH, TA, CH, and CYA. Use the powder chlorine test, not the yellow drop OTO test please.