Pool Still Green

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bobby g

bobby g

0
May 15, 2015
22
southern, ct
Good Morning, I am in the process of opening our pool this year, I been working on it for a few days all the levels seem to be ok but the pool is still green.



Shocking with 12% sodium hypochlorite


FC - over 5 color should a red on test kit color was actual purple

CC - same as FC

PH - 7.5

CYA - 60

TA - 110

Thank You
 
I used the taylor test kit with the drops.
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Great. Do you know if it's the K-2005 or K-2006 test kit? Does it have a small, round powder container (R-0870) and bottle of clear drops (R-0871)?

- - - Updated - - -

Also, please confirm the following based on that water color:
- Are you on a well?
- Have you ever added anything to that water other than regular bleach or pool store liquid chlorine?
 
That's the K-2005 test kit which is fine. It's only restriction is you don't have the FAS-DPD portion to test FC accurately at higher levels. You will want to order this: FAS/DPD Chlorine CC's test. That will basically turn your K-2005 into a K-2006 test kit. You really need that powder & drops portion for FC testing to perform the SLAM properly.
 
That looks like a Taylor K-2005. You need to add the FAS/DPD Chlorine CC's test to make the same as the K-2006 that you need to clear that pool.

Your CYA is too high, so a 50% water exchange will help things out. The process we use to clear a green pool is what we call a SLAM Process. Instead of "shocking" the pool we bring the pool up to shock level and hold it there until all the algae is dead and filtered out.

While you wait for teh FAS/DPD test kit to get delivered, you have a homework reading assignment. Start with ABCs of Water Chemistry and Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
 

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From one Bobby to another. Here is a pool water clarity hack that I discovered here a few years ago on TFP that I'm sharing with everybody in need of clearing their pool. From green to cloudy blue to crystal clear. Read this post from start to end. All 5 pages. Myself and others here on TFP are helping this person clear their pool with the aid of triple filtration and SLAM procedures with the solutions being only $5-$20. Use a Duda Diesel bag at 5 micron clamped onto an elbow on your return jet, and a skimmer sock, or a fine hairnet on your skimmer basket.

I have provided the links, involving particular drop down menu selections to select and order your duda diesel bag in this post. You can order a Duda diesel bag on eBay for $5. You should be able to get your water crystal clear within 4 to 5 days filtering at 5 micron with the Duda diesel bag without having to use DE. Read this post carefully and follow my instructions carefully about pressure rise, positive and negative vacuum and pressure, and installation of the bag. You will need a Hayward return 90 deg elbow. Part number
SPX1105Z4, the duda diesel bag at 5 micron, and a hose clamp.

Any questions send it here and I will respond right away.

Help with Stubborn Cloudy Green

Help with Stubborn Cloudy Green
 
MannyT said:
Tim, you mentioned that is CYA level is to high (60) and he should drain. I see that he has a SWCG and according to the FC/CYA chart that is actually not recommend and should be between 70-80? I'm new at this so I'm probably wrong but trying to learn.
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That is correct for a clean properly operating pool. The SLAM Process is hard to do at elevated CYA levels. It can be done, but takes a lot more chlorine.
 
Bobby, additional filter add-ons are nice and certainly have their place in pools, but make no mistake, you must get that FAS-DPD to SLAM your pool. Before you can filter anything, you need to kill the algae. To do that, you need chlorine (bleach) in the "proper" amount based on your current CYA. What we at TFP always remind folks about is that once you have algae, no amount of filtration alone will remove it. You have to kill it first with chlorine. So once you get the FAS-DPD, please post a new CYA and FC number for us so we can help you through the SLAM.
 
Yes Bobby please adhere to Texas Splash information. Get the FAS-DPD chlorine testing kit as your first measure. It is included in the Taylor TF-100 kit or the Taylor K-2006 kit which has less amounts of reagent. It is required to measure the higher levels of chlorine for a SHOCK or SLAM of FC 15-20 PPM. Start with that and some 6, 8,or 12% strength sodium hypochlorite bleach or pool chlorine. Get the kit, measure your CYA levels, then we will advise, or the Pool Math calculator will advise how much chlorine to add in oz. Depending on chlorine needs, strenghth, and gallon size of pool.
You have to kill the algae first by SLAM or shocking the pool. We will talk advanced filtration later, to clear your water out in a shorter amount of time.

Make sure to read the Pool School section of this forum to understand the water chemistry and relationship and balance, of what to use and what to add and what consequences it has.
 
Right now you need to get that FAS-DPD add on kit. FAS/DPD Chlorine CC's test It will allow you to measure the FC and maintain it at 24ppm. The more you can maintain the 24ppm (@60 CYA) the sooner you'll kill the green. Maintain is just that. You try to test as often as necessary to stay at 24ppm. At first that can be as often as every hour. You know you're making progress when you go longer and longer between testing. You'll get the the point the pool doesn't look green and the FC is holding and you do an overnight chlorine loss test (OCLT). If you pass you'll likely still be a little cloudy and need to filter for a couple days to get the dead algae out. Patience is the key ingredient.

Once you pass the OCLT then you can bump up the stabilizer/CYA and fire up the SWCG and get that set to properly keep your FC at a proper level.
 
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