Pool Renovation, need help with new chemistry.

[tkrotchko]

I had my pool built in 1998, I managed to nurse it through the last 7-8 years using advice here and it's given me a pretty good understand of what I would do differently next time, and so that was our thought process going through bids and listening to some very talented pool and deck people in the DC area.

We're going with a paver deck instead of concrete this time, and instead of traditional plaster, we've chosen WetEdge Signature Matrix.

In speaking with the pool renovation people, I asked them if they balanced the water before they left after the plaster install, and they indicated it was my responsibility. That didn't scare me, I've been maintaining the pool for 20 years, but I realized that I needed better water testing equipment, and a better understanding of the startup water balance procedure with new plaster.

So I picked up a good deal on ebay for a ColorQ Pro 7 kit, I purchased the mobile Pool Calculator (which I think is affiliated with you guys), and I purchased the "Pool School - Trouble Free Pool" ebook from Amazon

I understand pool chemistry pretty well, but I'm a little puzzled on how to start from scratch with plain water and new plaster. It appears to me that what I need to do fairly quickly is
1) Add Sequestrant
2) Add calcium to avoid the tap water leaching from the new plaster
3) Balance the pH using a combination of Borax and Muriatic acid.

Unfortunately, I'm not sure of the correct order, and obviously this doesn't address TA or CYA. I did a brief search and I didn't see any posts addressing this specific situation, so I apologize if my search skills aren't up to snuff.

The fill date is probably at about 4-5 weeks away based on the schedule, and it will be filled from a water truck from county water (since I have a well). But I want to be equipped with a plan and have the chemicals on hand to get the chemistry correct right away.

Help would be appreciated.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

For the first thing, you need to follow the directions for the WetEdge SIgnature Matrix warrenty guide and start up instructions-

http://wetedgetechnologies.com/files/28_Start_Up_Instructions_07_16_1.pdf

I grabbed that right off their website using Google. Make sure you register your finish with them also.

We're not terribly fond of the ColorQ tester as it requires frequent re-calibration to assure results.

The TFP Pool Math calculator comes with the PoolMath app.... what's really handy about this app is that it will keep a log for you as well as provide in hand guidance while you're testing your pool and inputting the results. Look for "PoolMath by TroubleFreePool" in your app search feature. We have nothing to do with "Pool Calculator"

Maddie

 

[tkrotchko]

Maddie, thanks very much for replying.

And thanks for the link to the PDF from WetEdge. Even i can follow these instructions. It even has the order of balancing (TA, pH, CH). Would you agree that I should probably keep around baking soda, muriatic acid, borax, & calcium chloride to deal with changing chemistry the first two weeks?

Regarding the LaMotte, According to the instructions, calibration is performed every time you do your testing (which I've run through) and it looks like it consists of a button press. However, do you think this kit will be capable of performing the required testing?

--Tom

 

[Katodude]

Also when filling the pool use some of the techniques mentioned here to get an accurate read on pool size. It will make your startup and maintenance much better.

- - - Updated - - -

Keep lots of acid around. The new pools tend to have their PH climb quite a bit. Also get a good brush. In the first 7 days brushing is critical.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Would you agree that I should probably keep around baking soda, muriatic acid, borax, & calcium chloride to deal with changing chemistry the first two weeks?

Before you go buying things like baking soda and borax....did you ever need them before?? I doubt you'll need them at this point.

Please test your fill water to determine its base TA, CH and pH. Then you'll have a better idea of what you may need. If you lived in the west with their high calcium, you'd never need to add that! But testing your CH in the fill water will tell you exactly where you stand and if you'll need to add. Most likely you will.

You will need muriatic acid as curing plaster always makes the pH rise, and you'll want to keep that controlled. Do *not* use pHdown products as they contain sulphates which are real bad for curing plaster and SWG.
Maddie

 

[tkrotchko]

I generally use several of them , so that sounds like good advice to continue with that. Once I get it balanced in the spring, after startup, my chemistry is stable through closing in early november.

And it sounds like the primary thing I'll need is lots of acid. as both of you have pointed out. Thanks for that advice.

--Tom