Pool Opening Problems - Green w/ disappearing chlorine.

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azaffiro

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Jul 2, 2015
19
Chesterland, Ohio
So this year my pool is giving me trouble. 33000 gallons. Chlorine. DE filter. The pool temp is around 50 degrees.

I opened on Monday the 30th. It was pretty green. I added 5 bags of Chlorox Xtra Blue (left over from last year) and then remembered I should be stablizing it first, so I stopped. I had the water tested:


FC .28
TC 1.47
CC 1.18
PH 7.9
Hard 121
Alk 74
CYA 20
Copper 0
iron 0.2
Phos 1252

They had me raise the PH and lower the Alk. The following day (Tuesday) I added 10 bags of Chlorox Xtra Blue (left over from last year) and 10 bags of Turbo Shock. I didn't see any change so I had the water tested again yesterday (Wednesday):

FC .28
TC 1.47
CC 1.19
PH 7.5
Hard 119
Alk 117
CYA 24
Copper 0
Iron .2
Phos 506

I added another 10 bags of Turbo Shock last night and tested the chloring this morning. It was only 2.

I don't understand why the pool is still so green. I have been backwashing as much as possible, usually 2 or 3 times a day. I am used to killing the algea with chlorine and it all falling to the bottom then vacuuming it up to waste. That doesn't seem to be happening and my chlorine should be sky high, but it isn't. Even the pool store guy doesn'tknow what is going on.

Any suggestions? Thanks for all you help in advance!
 
How are you testing? You need one of the Recommended Test Kits.

Stop blindly adding solid chlorine ... they have horrible side-effects and could be making your problems worse.

You need to follow the SLAM Process process. But, might want to review some of the basics first:
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool

- - - Updated - - -

Turbo shock is cal-hypo and adding a lot of calcium which can cause cloudy water.
The Xtra Blue is dichlor and adding a lot of stabilizer (CYA) which thus requires higher chlorine levels ... and the "blue" means it is adding copper to your pool which can cause green hair and staining.

- - - Updated - - -

15 pounds of xtra blue added 30ppm of FC and 27ppm of CYA and likely tanked the pH. (so clearly the CYA test is wrong)
20 pounds of the turbe added 57ppm of FC and 37ppm of CH. (so clearly the CH test is wrong)

Depending on what they are using to test the water, your FC could be sky high and messing up their test or it all got consumed by something.

If you want to take control, stop going to the pool store and get a test kit.
 
Can you post a full test with your test kit? Is it a Taylor 2006c or a TF-100? Agree with Jason, stay out of the pool store and don't add copper to your pool!
 
The chart I linked above has the SLAM level for your CYA. Here is the calculator to figure out how much that is: PoolMath make sure your pool gallons are correct as well as the strength of the bleach/chlorine.

Could you fill out your signature with your pool and equipment info? Also, where is Chesterland? :)
 
So I started my SLAM yesterday late afternoon. I brought my PH up to 7.2 and added a ton of liquid chlorine. I got my FC to 25, but was out of chlorine. I bought more today. This morning my FC was 8. That is a huge drop, but the first time I have had any FC for any significant amount of time. I will keep this going and see whrer it take me. Thanks again for all the help!
 

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azaffiro said:
So I started my SLAM yesterday late afternoon. I brought my PH up to 7.2 and added a ton of liquid chlorine. I got my FC to 25, but was out of chlorine. I bought more today. This morning my FC was 8. That is a huge drop, but the first time I have had any FC for any significant amount of time. I will keep this going and see whrer it take me. Thanks again for all the help!
Click to expand...
If your CYA is still 70 then you need more chlorine. Shock level for CYA 70 = 28, not 25
 
LOL.

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel (or at the bottom of the pool). It is finally clearing up. SLAM is the solution. Hopefully just a few more days... On the bright side, my wife found 12.5% chlorine for $2.49/gallon. The pool store wants $4.50... She bought them all.

Should I stick wioth liquid vs powdered?
 
azaffiro said:
Should I stick wioth liquid vs powdered?
Click to expand...
Yes, the powered adds stuff you don't want to the water-

I'll give you the long story:

In it's natural state, chlorine is a gas. Many large commercial pools actually use gas injection systems to chlorinate their pools. Now, to change chlorine into something we can use at home it needs to be bound to something to turn it into a solid. The "somethings" that are commonly used are stabilizer (also known as CYA), calcium, lithium, or --- get this water. All of these add a little salt to your water, but they add something else.

Cal-Hypo add calcium

Tri-Chlor and Di-Chlor (tabs and most granules) add stabilizer

Lithium hypochlorite adds lithium

liquid chlorine adds - water.

All of these things can be bad for your pool (except the water) in large quantities. The stabilizer helps shield the chlorine from UV degradation, but at higher levels it also impairs the ability of chlorine to do it's work. The higher the stabilizer level you have the higher the amount of chlorine you need. Too much calcium and you start to get scaling on the walls and floors of your pool.
 
Great info. Thanks. I will use liquid whenever I can, aside from my pucks. I found a store (Marc's) that seasonally stocks 12.5% for $2.79. I bought all they had- 13 gallons.

So the pool looks a bit differnt now than it did a week ago. I am only losing a couple of ppm overnight. I will do OCLT probably tomorrow or Friday night. You have been a life saver. And I have learned a lot. Thank you so much!!

Here are some current pics... Pardon the mess, we are under construction (I just tore the fence out. We are adding 4 to 6 feet of concrete arounds the pool to increase the deck size.)
View attachment 76721View attachment 76722
 
azaffiro said:
Great info. Thanks. I will use liquid whenever I can, aside from my pucks.
Click to expand...

Pucks are okay in some instances, like if you are going to be on vacation. But you need to be aware that they are also adding more CYA to your pool.
 
Just keep in the back of your mind, each puck raises the CYA by 1ppm in your 33,000 gallon pool. 10 pucks, your CYA went up by 10. The higher teh CYA the higher you need to keep the FC.

We are not against them at all, as long as you understand what they bring to the party and what they leave behind when they are gone.

So:

TFPC tenet - Never put chemistry in your pool when you do not know the outcome
 
I understand. I used to have cya over 100 last year. I regularly drained and refilled to lower it even though they told me it was fine. I am starting to realize how I have been misled by my local pool store. I don't think they are bad people, but they seem to have a one-size-fits-all approach and they like to keep you ignorant. I much prefer knowledge and I have learned more on this site than I have with 10 years of dealing with them.

I have been investigating SWGs for the past couple of years. There is just so much out there that I am afraid to make a final decision. I have been leaning towards the Pentair IC60. Do you think that would be the right choice for me?
 
azaffiro said:
I understand. I used to have cya over 100 last year. I regularly drained and refilled to lower it even though they told me it was fine. I am starting to realize how I have been misled by my local pool store. I don't think they are bad people, but they seem to have a one-size-fits-all approach and they like to keep you ignorant. I much prefer knowledge and I have learned more on this site than I have with 10 years of dealing with them.

I have been investigating SWGs for the past couple of years. There is just so much out there that I am afraid to make a final decision. I have been leaning towards the Pentair IC60. Do you think that would be the right choice for me?
Click to expand...

Howdy from the other side of the city!

I switched to salt water last year and went with the IC60 and my only regret is not doing it sooner. During the hottest part of summer it kept my pool sanitary humming along at 40% for 12hrs. a day. There are many other options to choose from of course. My decision was based on my other equipment being Pentair and the thought that I may go automated some day.

Are you sure of your pool volume? What are the dimensions?
 

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