Am I the only that thinks a 1HP pump for 30,000 gallons is a bit on the low side? I only mention it, because mihalakj filtering could be going slower than "normal"...therefore take a bit longer???
Pool Opened Green, turned white Cloudy will not clear
- Thread starter mihalakj
- Start date
Whew...I'll sleep better now. To be honest, sometimes I look at my signature just to remember what I'm running!
To help you keep the faith. The attached picture was my pool this past Wednesday, 5/29. 10:30AM, and that was after and hour of cleaning it.
I vacuumed, then filtered, and am still filtering. I also brushed the side walls, where the green film settled and discolored the liner. Then brushed lower on the walls as best I could, and brushed the bottom often, to stir things up and help the chlorine its job. Look at the chart below and realize that the pool didn't have decent clarity until this morning. Still not ready for use, although it's technically clean.
Test results:
Added
bleach
5/30 : 5/30 : 5/30 : 5/31
1:30PM 4:50PM 9PM 6:45AM
FC - 4 , 8 , 7 , 7
CC - .5 , .5 , <.5, <.5
TC - 4.5 , 8.5 , 7.5 , 7.5
PH - 7, 7
TA - 100
CYA - 0 , 15? , 15?
On 5/30, I did add stabilizer, but I'm still not even at 20. However, I first added some through the skimmer, so that could take a bit longer. The second half, I used a nylon stocking and hung it in front of the return. I like that option better, but was just rushing it. I only tested PH twice, TA once, and CYA 3 times. I'll create bubbles on the surface to raise PH. TA is fine, and I always battle with CYA, so I'll add that once things settle down. Lots of hot sun today, so I have to stay on it. I made sure I opened the pool when I had several free days to babysit it.
My point? Look at the that green picture and just know it will take time. I have almost 25% of the water volume that you have, so be patient.
I vacuumed, then filtered, and am still filtering. I also brushed the side walls, where the green film settled and discolored the liner. Then brushed lower on the walls as best I could, and brushed the bottom often, to stir things up and help the chlorine its job. Look at the chart below and realize that the pool didn't have decent clarity until this morning. Still not ready for use, although it's technically clean.
Test results:
Added
bleach
5/30 : 5/30 : 5/30 : 5/31
1:30PM 4:50PM 9PM 6:45AM
FC - 4 , 8 , 7 , 7
CC - .5 , .5 , <.5, <.5
TC - 4.5 , 8.5 , 7.5 , 7.5
PH - 7, 7
TA - 100
CYA - 0 , 15? , 15?
On 5/30, I did add stabilizer, but I'm still not even at 20. However, I first added some through the skimmer, so that could take a bit longer. The second half, I used a nylon stocking and hung it in front of the return. I like that option better, but was just rushing it. I only tested PH twice, TA once, and CYA 3 times. I'll create bubbles on the surface to raise PH. TA is fine, and I always battle with CYA, so I'll add that once things settle down. Lots of hot sun today, so I have to stay on it. I made sure I opened the pool when I had several free days to babysit it.
My point? Look at the that green picture and just know it will take time. I have almost 25% of the water volume that you have, so be patient.
Attachments
Start of OCLT numbers:
FC = 26.5
CC =.5
TC = 27
End of OCLT numbers:
FC = 31.5
ummm something is wrong here right? My FC can't go up can it? I didn't add anything to it since 5/27. I guess I do over again tonight/tomorrow?
Fail.
FC = 26.5
CC =.5
TC = 27
End of OCLT numbers:
FC = 31.5
ummm something is wrong here right? My FC can't go up can it? I didn't add anything to it since 5/27. I guess I do over again tonight/tomorrow?
Fail.
Testing error? Did you add chlorine before you started the test? Do you have any other source like tablets in a chlorinator?
You are not using your TF-100 kit yet, correct? Are you sure you're using the correct chemical to test? I only ask because in the TF-100 kit, the DPD Reagent and the Orthotolidine are in identical bottles. Using the DPD Reagent to test for chlorine reveals drastically different results, although usually on the low side. But, you could be reading a false result, due to using the incorrect chemical. This is called an ID10T error. Then you start making all kinds of mistakes. Ask me how I know???
I would recommend waiting for the TF-100 and go from there. Tell the wife and kids to hit the mall this weekend
I would recommend waiting for the TF-100 and go from there. Tell the wife and kids to hit the mall this weekend
I have the TF-100 kit. I don't have any inline chlorinators, pucks in the skimmers or have added any chemicals since 5/27.
I am guessing I must have mis-counted the drops on the inital reading. Pehaps I counted 63, but got mixed up and did it as "53". I did it twice both the night before and the morning after though, so i'm thinking I did it right.
Obviously, somethings wrong, so let me re-do the test.
The good news is the water is certainly fine to swim in since I can see the bottom. Pool is open for business as far as i'm concerned. It keeps getting clearer each morning... This, and the high FC level leads me to believe I have successfully executed the nuclear option against my pool by draining 1/2 of it.
I still want to do the test to confirm that though.
I am guessing I must have mis-counted the drops on the inital reading. Pehaps I counted 63, but got mixed up and did it as "53". I did it twice both the night before and the morning after though, so i'm thinking I did it right.
Obviously, somethings wrong, so let me re-do the test.
The good news is the water is certainly fine to swim in since I can see the bottom. Pool is open for business as far as i'm concerned. It keeps getting clearer each morning... This, and the high FC level leads me to believe I have successfully executed the nuclear option against my pool by draining 1/2 of it.
I still want to do the test to confirm that though.
In your own words, describe exactly what you are doing on the FC test from start to finish. I'm concerned about the FC going from 45 to 26 in a day or two. Just want to clarify that you are correct. For some reason, I ran a few tests and was putting 25 ml of water in the test tube instead of 10. Don't know why, but in my head it was right, until I double checked myself and realized I was an idiot...
Also, don't swim until your FC is below shock level for the amount of CYA you have in the pool.
Also, don't swim until your FC is below shock level for the amount of CYA you have in the pool.
Ok, i'm doing this from memory, but i'm following the instructions on the card sent with the kit.
1. rinse out chlorine only cylinder
2. plunge down past the elbow with my hand over the cylinder, open hand to let water flow in
3. Remove cylinder from water, pour out until 10mL
4. put in heaping stirrer spoonful of white granules in kit (don't remember the number right now)
5. Turns pink
6. put in drops of the largest bottle in the kit (don't remember the number right now because I don't have it in front of me)
7. Count the drops while swirling the solution until it turns clear. When it starts to lighten I slow down on the dropper and swirl it so I don't over add drops. I add 2 drops until its pretty darn close to clear but still a slight pinkish hue. I then put it on a white piece of paper and add drops one at a time and swirl. I also put a glass of water next to it to compare whats clear and whats still pink.
8. Once its clear, I take the # of drops and divide by 2. Thats my FC number.
1. rinse out chlorine only cylinder
2. plunge down past the elbow with my hand over the cylinder, open hand to let water flow in
3. Remove cylinder from water, pour out until 10mL
4. put in heaping stirrer spoonful of white granules in kit (don't remember the number right now)
5. Turns pink
6. put in drops of the largest bottle in the kit (don't remember the number right now because I don't have it in front of me)
7. Count the drops while swirling the solution until it turns clear. When it starts to lighten I slow down on the dropper and swirl it so I don't over add drops. I add 2 drops until its pretty darn close to clear but still a slight pinkish hue. I then put it on a white piece of paper and add drops one at a time and swirl. I also put a glass of water next to it to compare whats clear and whats still pink.
8. Once its clear, I take the # of drops and divide by 2. Thats my FC number.
joshs2000ss said:
haha i've done that. a reason why I had an algae outbreak last year and had no idea why until I reread the directions.
mihalakj, a speedstirrer is something nice to add on to your test kit. i didn't believe it until i finally bought one. so much easier and a lot less hassle of swirling it by hand.
I find that getting a cup full of water to use for all tests and taking it to a comfortable testing area is very convenient. Just use a pyrex measuring cup and pour your samples into vials as needed.mihalakj said:
At high FC levels you need to use more powder. Make sure you keep adding powder until the solution does not turn any darker shade of pink.
In the TF-100 kit the FAS-DPD titration reagent bottle is a rounded white bottle that looks like a saline nasal spray bottle marked R-0871. The largest bottle in the TF-100 is actually the CYA reagent which is R-0013.
Like Josh said, don't swim until you get at or below shock level. For 60 CYA thats 18ppm FC using the PoolCalculator.
joshs2000ss said: