Pool light troubleshooting

[monkeysocks]

Hi all,

My pool light comes on for a moment then the GFCI breaker triggers. I have lifted the pool light out of the pool and checked for and found no water in the housing. I disconnected the wires in the junction box and it still triggers the breaker without the light installed. I tested the light with another cord in a regular outlet and it illuminates and doesn't trigger anything

I'm thinking my next step is to replace the GFCI breaker, and if that doesn't work replace the power cable from the j box to the breaker. Am I on the right track?

Thanks!
Grant

 

[danpik]

It is possible the GFI is doing what it is supposed to do. It could be the wire from the GFI to the junction box is bad. It would be simple and fairly cheap to try a new GFI first.
Dan

 

[Meadow]

I'm thinking my next step is to replace the GFCI breaker, and if that doesn't work replace the power cable from the j box to the breaker. Am I on the right track?

That's what I would do if I don't have a multimeter! I am not disagreeing, GFCI can go bad. Just make sure there is no service outlet or other equipment tied with the GFCI other than your pool light.

 

[monkeysocks]

That's what I would do if I don't have a multimeter! I am not disagreeing, GFCI can go bad. Just make sure there is no service outlet or other equipment tied with the GFCI other than your pool light.

I have a multimeter, but I'm not sure how to use it to test GFCI. The only equipment on GFCI is the pool light, the other circuit breaker in the box is for the pool pump.

 

[Meadow]

I have a multimeter, but I'm not sure how to use it to test GFCI. The only equipment on GFCI is the pool light, the other circuit breaker in the box is for the pool pump.

ahhhh..., in that case put down the shotgun and use the multimeter instead.

Please don't get me wrong! What you need to test are the electrical wires from the load side of the GFCI to the j-box for any signs of ground leaks or shorts. This can be accomplish by a DVM set to measure resistance in Meg Ohm scale. There shouldn't be anything tied on either end of the electrical wires subject for test and do not touch the tip of the test leads while conducting this test. Use a pair of test clip if available. If all is good then you have reasons to believed the GFCI went south. If in doubt, please provide the model# of your multimeter.

Or... simple as can be, disconnect all the wires from the load side of the GFCI and see if symptoms persist.

 

[monkeysocks]

ahhhh..., in that case put down the shotgun and use the multimeter instead.

Please don't get me wrong! What you need to test are the electrical wires from the load side of the GFCI to the j-box for any signs of ground leaks or shorts. This can be accomplish by a DVM set to measure resistance in Meg Ohm scale. There shouldn't be anything tied on either end of the electrical wires subject for test and do not touch the tip of the test leads while conducting this test. Use a pair of test clip if available. If all is good then you have reasons to believed the GFCI went south. If in doubt, please provide the model# of your multimeter.

Or... simple as can be, disconnect all the wires from the load side of the GFCI and see if symptoms persist.

Thanks so much for your help, Meadow. My multimeter is an 'Innova 3310' without test clips, I can pick up a pair of clips if that's needed.

Will I need to disconnect the electric wire from the breaker side for the test?

 

[Meadow]

Thanks so much for your help, Meadow. My multimeter is an 'Innova 3310' without test clips, I can pick up a pair of clips if that's needed.

Will I need to disconnect the electric wire from the breaker side for the test?

Copy that! Thanks for the update on the multimeter. I would use the 20M range to begin with and no need to buy test clips, you should be good.

Yes, disconnect any wire(s) from the load side of the GFCI to narrow down troubleshooting. Do not disconnect the white neutral wire from the back of the GFCI going to the service neutral.
Then flip it back on and let us know if the symptoms persist before you test the electrical wires.

Btw, is it a single or 2 pole GFCI Breaker? We need to be on the same page and it would be nice if you can post a picture of the GFCI you're having problem with.

 

[monkeysocks]

Copy that! Thanks for the update on the multimeter. I would use the 20M range to begin with and no need to buy test clips, you should be good.

Yes, disconnect any wire(s) from the load side of the GFCI to narrow down troubleshooting. Do not disconnect the white neutral wire from the back of the GFCI going to the service neutral.
Then flip it back on and let us know if the symptoms persist before you test the electrical wires.

Btw, is it a single or 2 pole GFCI Breaker? We need to be on the same page and it would be nice if you can post a picture of the GFCI you're having problem with.

Here's a pic of the panel.

I'm thinking I turn off the subpanel via the main breakers, then disconnect the positive from the pool light breaker.. and somehow test it? I work in IT nuy these real life physics leave me so boggled at times.

 

[monkeysocks]

Copy that! Thanks for the update on the multimeter. I would use the 20M range to begin with and no need to buy test clips, you should be good.

Yes, disconnect any wire(s) from the load side of the GFCI to narrow down troubleshooting. Do not disconnect the white neutral wire from the back of the GFCI going to the service neutral.
Then flip it back on and let us know if the symptoms persist before you test the electrical wires.

Btw, is it a single or 2 pole GFCI Breaker? We need to be on the same page and it would be nice if you can post a picture of the GFCI you're having problem with.

View attachment 79553

Here's a pic of the panel.

I'm thinking I turn off the subpanel via the main breakers, then disconnect the positive from the pool light breaker.. and somehow test it? I work in IT but these real life physics leave me so boggled at times.

- - - Updated - - -

I tried fixing a typo which lead to a double post. LOL, sorry

 

[PoolGate]

Do you have a GFI outlet or is that GFI breaker what you were talking about (or both)? Both the outlets and the breakers go bad and need to be replaced from time to time. Why not test at the light J-box?

 

[monkeysocks]

Do you have a GFI outlet or is that GFI breaker what you were talking about (or both)? Both the outlets and the breakers go bad and need to be replaced from time to time. Why not test at the light J-box?

Just a GFI breaker, there's no outlet. There is also light switch in the house, directly behind the breaker that can be used to turn the light on and off.

 

[PoolGate]

Just a GFI breaker, there's no outlet. There is also light switch in the house, directly behind the breaker that can be used to turn the light on and off.

Ah ok then I would test at that switch. It should always be getting power as long as the breaker is on.

You could also replace the switch with something like this then you have a builtin test light.

Leviton 1201-PLC 15 Amp, 120 Volt, Toggle Pilot Light, Illuminated ON, Req. Neutral Single-Pole AC Quiet Switch, Industrial Grade, Self Grounding, Clear - Wall Light Switches - Amazon.com

 

[Meadow]

That is a single pole 20A GFCI Breaker made by GE > https://hdsupplysolutions.com/shop/p/ge-20-amp-single-pole-gfci-breaker-p360263

Silly me, I keep forgetting I'm not inter-acting with our techs.

OP,... whatever you do, safety must come first! In your case, Yes...you need to disconnect the incoming AC power to the sub.
The following instructions are based upon the statements from your previous posts. Call in an electrician if you're not confident working around with electricity!

1. Open the front panel and take pictures for your own reference before disconnecting wires.
2. Disconnect the load wires from the GFCI as shown in the below pic (red arrow) and isolate the wires with electrical tape. Again, DO NOT disturb the white wire from the back of the GFCI going to the service Neutral.
3. Temporarily put back the front panel in place
4. With the GFCI turned off, go ahead and turn on the incoming AC power to the sub-pnl
5. Now, turn on the GFCI.
If it does tripped at no load, replace the GFCI breaker. Problem solved!
Otherwise, the problem is in the wiring from the sub-pnl to the light sw and/or to the j-box. Depends on your level of comfort with electricity, you may want to engage an electrician.





- - - Updated - - -

Oopssss...sorry PoolGate, not trying to double dip. I typed too slow in the background (pick and peck).

 

[monkeysocks]

Thanks Meadow and PoolGate! With those instructions I'm confident I can test the breaker.

 

[Meadow]

You're welcome! Please review the Manufacturer's literature here and keep it handy for reference.