Pool is cloudy and showing algae

RhondaW

Active member
Sep 8, 2022
27
Mesa, AZ
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Reading yesterday were:

FC - 6.5
CC - 0
TA - 130
Ph - 8.2
CYA - 100

I put in muratic acid 58 oz and liquid chlorine bleach 86oz per the pool math recommendations. Today it’s cloudy and still showing algae.
I know I need to empty my water but waiting till the end of the season as it’s too hot to be doing that right now

Suggestions??
 
Your FC is way too low for such a high CYA. If you choose to keep your CYA that high then you'll need to keep your FC around 10-20 at all times. FC/CYA Levels

To rid yourself of the algae you'll need to perform the SLAM Process, which at your CYA level means targeting 40 ppm and maintaining it there until you pass all three completion criteria. You'll probably need to get some more FAS-DPD reagents as you'll be testing several times per day and burning through them quite quickly.
 
I know that. I said I need to drain it but not doing it right now. I need suggestions other then draining my pool.
Almost 7000 posts helping others with pools. 1000s of hours learning from others and threads in this forum.

I have never seen a pool recovered, through any method, SLAM or otherwise, clear a pool with a CYA of 100.

Less than a handful with CYA of 80. Some with CYA of 70. 60 seems to be the reasonable threshold, from both a cost and time perspective.

You do not need to drain your pool to correct your issue (which, you are correct, you should not do). Please see "No Drain Water Exchange" in this article. Use this method to replace at least 40% of your water, without draining.

 
With a CH over 875 and a CYA of over100, a full drain/refill this fall is needed. As you areaware, draining is this 100+ (117 today) isn't good for the pool plaster.

For now, lower the pH to 7.2 and let it rise to 8.0 before adding acid again. This will help lower your high TA. Shoot for a TA of 60-70. Having a lower TA will help slow your pH rise.
Remember, pH testis invalid when FC > 10 - unless you are using a good digital pH meter.

With a CYA of 100, minimum FC is 8, target FC is 11-13 and SLAM FC is 39.

Consider a no drain water exchange
Specifically section 3.5

Check with the City of Mesa for the months they use to set sewer rates based on water usage. It used to be 2-3 months water usage in the spring sometime.
 
It’s cheaper to do a partial drain and refill than to try and battle this.
Draining - even a partial drain - isn't recommended when the outdoor temps are high. OP is presently seeing temps well over100 right now. Forecast to continue well into September.

A no drain water exchange is a much better option than a drain/refill this time of year in Arizona (and lots of other places).
 
Draining - even a partial drain - isn't recommended when the outdoor temps are high. OP is presently seeing temps well over100 right now. Forecast to continue well into September.

A no drain water exchange is a much better option than a drain/refill this time of year in Arizona (and lots of other places).
You’re right. I should have been more clear. I oversimplified.
 
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Draining - even a partial drain - isn't recommended when the outdoor temps are high. OP is presently seeing temps well over100 right now. Forecast to continue well into September.

A no drain water exchange is a much better option than a drain/refill this time of year in Arizona (and lots of other places).
Ok so I read the no drain water exchange and I’m confused. Still fairly new to all this less than a year of doing it myself. I do not have a deep end as stated in the post. My pool is about 5 ft all the way around. I do have a small submersible pump (1800 gallons per hr). Can anyone dumb it down for this single Mama?!
 

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Do you have a main drain in the bottom of the pool? You may see two of them.
That's where you place the sump pump.

The fill hose gets placed in the skimmer or on the top of the first step (weight it down if on the step).

In theory, this places the sump pump (water exiting the pool) at the opposite end of the pool from the fill hose (water entering the pool).
Since the existing pool water is heavier (CH, CYA and some salt) than the new water, its best to have the sump pump at the deepest point and the fill hose nearer the water surface and far from the sump pump.

You have to measure the rate of water entering the pool from the fill hose and attempt to match the sump pump flow to that. It takes some experimenting to get it close.

I think @mknauss might be able to better explain it....
 
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Only caveat to what Gene said is water temperature. I suspect your fill water and pool water temperatures are pretty close to the same. So doing it as Gene stated will work.
 
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