Pool Closed

[kcindc]

Yes, a deep clean wouldn't hurt. This point it take patience for your filter to filter out all of the dead algae. Have you tried using DE? This should speed up the final phase of your SLAM. Pool School - Add DE to a Sand Filter

Make sure that you are not backwashing until your pressure has risen 25% above the clean pressure. Sand filter work best when they are a little dirty, so backwashing too soon is not good.

When adding DE, try to it right after you have backwashed. You want to add just enough DE to raise your pressure by 1 PSI. Try 1/2 cup at first as you don't want to do too much.

Add the DE after every backwash.

Take photos at the same time each day to help you track your progress. Photos of the stairs (if they are in the pool) are helpful in measuring clarity improvement.

 

[Jayrice1]

Psi starts at 12 at backlash when I gets to 15

 

[Pool Amateur]

I am going to mention something that is more food for thought than a recommendation to run out and do it. Since you have not opened your pool in 10 years there are a few elements of a sand filter that can go bad from time. The 1st is the spider gasket and the second are the laterals. Most people on TFP think sand does not go bad I am in that camp also. If you do a deep clean you can see the upper part of the laterals, mine had broke at the top so sand really was not coming through the returns too much, you could also remove the lower to inspect but I would think if lowers were damaged we would see sand in the pool from the returns and when you opened for deep clean sand level would be down. As for spider gasket, the most common sign of it going bad is leaking from the waste port, however I bad spider and only a section separating filter from recycling was bad, so it may be worth an inspection. Another way that is relatively cheap to see if filter is not at peak performance and also help an undersized filter clearing up a mess is a Slimebag. Rather than buying one from the company here are 2 threads about DIY slimebags you can do yourself for about $20. Slime bags for 1/10th the cost, and Trying out the SlimeBag. Here is a URL for Amazon. Not sure of the plumbing size of your filter but for an above ground pool do not need an adapter can clamp it onto hose. Here is how Slimebag company says to do it. If you do use them and it works I would look a little deeper into filter as above.

 

[Jayrice1]

Thanks for all your help the filter is brand new. I deep cleaned the filter the pool is now crystal clear.
What test do I need to do to prepare for being unavailable.

 

[Pool Amateur]

Fantastic, since water is clear, do an OCLT need to loose less than 1.0 of FC and CC not be more than .5 ppm. Then you are done and can enjoy pool let FC drift down to proper level as per the Chlorine/CYA Chart, I do not remember CYA but think it is CYA= 30 ppm in your pool at present so target is betwwen 4-6. I would put chlorine in the AM up to 6 ppm and check and adjust in PM. As time goes on you will see a pattern and will not have to test as much (but only for a day or 2) and just add. Also if you pass do full test and post if anything out of balance you will balance. I am thinking ph primarily.

If I remember you are going away for 2-3 days. Right before you leave bring FC up to Slam, put a few 3" pucks in the floater and you are set. If you can cover with opaque cover it will help FC loss be even less, but if you do not still should be OK. As soon as you get back check FC if below 2 bring FC back up to Slam and do an OCLT till you pass and all will be good. If FC is above 2 when you get back just bring back up to 6. Then Check CYA to be sure it is still 30, it may have gone up tp 40 from the pucks. If at CYA is 40 ppm you new target will be between 5-7 ppms.

 

[zea3]

Only use pucks if you are planning to have the pump running while you are away. Letting pucks sit in one place days on end can damage the liner. It can run a few hours a day on a timer, or it can run 24/7 while you are away.

 

[Pool Amateur]

Great post zea3, I was assuming she had a timer and should have mentioned that.

 

[Jayrice1]

Vacation over time to close pool I ordered the magic jack blue stuff for the Iron stains in the pool what else do I need to purchase for the iron before closing the pool

 

[kcindc]

What state do you live in? While swim season is over, we recommend on waiting for the water to get to 60 degrees before you close your pool. If you close too soon or open too late, you will open to a green swamp and will need to SLAM. If you close after the water is consistently below 60 degrees and open before it reaches 60, you will more than likely avoid a swamp and open to crystal clear water.

Here is a pool school article to read: Pool School - Closing (Winterizing) Your Above Ground Pool

 

[Pool Amateur]

I would read some of Swampwoman's threads, and follow directions carefully for iron removal and what to use. I have never done it myself, but from what I read cooler water is a much better time to do it as you have to have your FC down pretty low, then slowly bring it back up, if FC brought up too fast stains may return, if water turns a greenish yellow may be able to filter out some iron with methods in some of swampwoman threads. I think link above covers closing pretty well.

 

[Jayrice1]

Finally got pool cleaner now I found water draining out but I can't find the whole. Any suggestions

 

[Pool Amateur]

when you say

Finally got pool cleaner

I assume you mean stains removed. During that process anything that might have caused a puncture? You may also do well to start a new tread as this is old. Where and how did you find water draining? did it go to a certain level and stop? Locating the leak is the hard part, may not be a hole in liner but at a inlet or outlet or pump or hose. So any addition info to give clues would be helpful.If you start a new thread post a link here.

 

[Jayrice1]

The whole is in the liner on wall. I found it

 

[Pool Amateur]

Very easy to patch with a patch kit even if underwater. Do a search for tips on how to do a DIY repair.