Plumbing improvements during VSP upgrade - looking for advice

[SirNoSplashing]

I am looking to upgrade my 1hp single speed. I am thinking of jumping to the Calimar 3HP, which could be overkill but I have a lot of pipe length and elevation change so better be safe than sorry. Given the price, its a no-brainer. Yes, this pump might be Crud but I am ok taking the chance on it. Onto the topic of plumbing, see attached picture. Ignore my unfinished landscaping!

The un-valved inlet is my skimmer, the valved inlet is the main drains in the deep end.
The red on/off valve at my outlet is the returns, the black valve feeds a waterfall, bubblers, or both depending on the position of the valve. Prefer not to touch these, this setup works for me.

1) First, I would be curious for input on how my installer did, and if there is anything I should generally change while I am installing the pump. I have done a lot of pvc plumbing, so reworking this would be easy for me (man's last words).
2) Given I have no union on the pump inlet, and the fittings stack against each other, I will have to cut back to the elbows coming out of the ground. I've got enough horizontal PVC just after those elbows. I am not sure there is an easy way to salvage anything. So, start fresh just after elbows - Agree with this approach? Any benefit to a Wye + 45 elbow vs a 90 elbow where the main drain and skimmer merge? overthinking it?
3) I plan on using these unions directly on the pump: Amazon.com Good option? Given the O-rings, do people skip teflon tape / thread sealant?
4) Any suggestion on how to handle the pump outlet? There is a union after the turn, I am not sure if these are standard and I can buy another union and re-use the half that remains on my piping? This would be easiest. If not, same scanario as the inlet, I just have to replumb everything up to the filter.
5) Any recommendations on where I could add a clamp-on style flow meter? I don't have a lot of straight runs in my piping. How critical is it that I have one? Seems like a nice-to-have with a VSP.

Thanks in advance, lots of questions there I know....

 

[HermanTX]

2) Given I have no union on the pump inlet, and the fittings stack against each other, I will have to cut back to the elbows coming out of the ground. I've got enough horizontal PVC just after those elbows. I am not sure there is an easy way to salvage anything. So, start fresh just after elbows - Agree with this approach? Any benefit to a Wye + 45 elbow vs a 90 elbow where the main drain and skimmer merge? overthinking it?

Good approach. You could replace the red handle valve with a standard diverter valve (like the black one. They have 2 way or 3 way type valves. You could replace the existing Tee with a 3 way valve.

3) I plan on using these unions directly on the pump: Amazon.com Good option? Given the O-rings, do people skip teflon tape / thread sealant?

Good plan. With oring seal there is no need to use teflon tape.

4) Any suggestion on how to handle the pump outlet? There is a union after the turn, I am not sure if these are standard and I can buy another union and re-use the half that remains on my piping? This would be easiest. If not, same scanario as the inlet, I just have to replumb everything up to the filter.

Put a union directly onto the pump. Remove the existing PVC union. Is that an anode? There are pluses and minuses to it. Most recommend it is not needed. You can remove it and make new pipe from pump outlet to filter inlet.

5) Any recommendations on where I could add a clamp-on style flow meter? I don't have a lot of straight runs in my piping. How critical is it that I have one? Seems like a nice-to-have with a VSP.

Not critical to have a flow meter. You can buy a Flo Vis inline flow meter. It is best to put after the filter.

 

[Newdude]

Yes, this pump might be Crud but I am ok taking the chance on it.

I think we have been seeing them used for 3 seasons now and more and more are getting them with the current costs of the flagships. There's only been a handful of reported problems and all but one was handled quickly IIRC.

How critical is it that I have one? Seems like a nice-to-have with a VSP.

Most people have no need for a flow meter. I can call the same metric multiple things and it all gets the job done.

With no flow meter, I know my SWG works at 700+ RPM and my skimming works at 1000+. That translates to flow / GPM but I don't need to know those #s if I speak RPMese.

Prefer not to touch these, this setup works for me.

I will only suggest considering installing quality diverter valves while you're out there, already cutting and gluing. Yes you're handy and can replace the ball valves as they break, but you know darn well it won't be a convenient time when they go. And they will go.

 

[SirNoSplashing]

Good approach. You could replace the red handle valve with a standard diverter valve (like the black one. They have 2 way or 3 way type valves. You could replace the existing Tee with a 3 way valve.

Good plan. With oring seal there is no need to use teflon tape.


Put a union directly onto the pump. Remove the existing PVC union. Is that an anode? There are pluses and minuses to it. Most recommend it is not needed. You can remove it and make new pipe from pump outlet to filter inlet.


Not critical to have a flow meter. You can buy a Flo Vis inline flow meter. It is best to put after the filter.

Thanks so much for the input! You gave me confidence in my plan. I guess that is an anode and I never researched them until now. I read that it is traditionally placed between the filter and the heater, not sure how critical that is - mine is obviously before the filter. If I remove it, that makes the plumbing all that easier.

I appreciate the feedback on diverter valves. Seems like adding 2-ways in place of the red valves makes sense. A 3-way at the pump inlet would be nice, though that leaves the option to (accidentally) fully close the inlet. I suppose it might be nice to have the option to only pull from the main drains, which today I don't have that option. Is there ever a case where pulling from only the main drains is preferred?

EDIT: could that be a water bond instead of an anode?

 

[Newdude]

Is there ever a case where pulling from only the main drains is preferred?

Draining below the skimmer like at closing
(Assuming you babysit the pump to ensure it doesn't lose prime

Shutting off the skimmers for vacations so they don't clog and starve the pump.

Sometimes it primes quicker from only the drain.


It's not critical but it does come in handy at times.

I guess that is an anode and I never researched them until now. I read that it is traditionally placed between the filter and the heater, not sure how critical that is

It's actual science misapplied to pools. It's for sea water, not pool water. And they bungled how they do it too, but that's a story for another day.

A 3-way at the pump inlet would be nice, though that leaves the option to (accidentally) fully close the inlet - right? I

In it's current setup, yes. So reroute them a little and T it.




I know. I know. More work. And I'm sorry about that. Lol. But 'nows the time'.

 

[SirNoSplashing]

It's actual science misapplied to pools. It's for sea water, not pool water. And they bungled how they do it too, but that's a story for another day.

Thank you for the replies and help. Also, I was editing my post while you were replying: Regarding that item, could it be a water bond instead of an anode? And if so, I assume I want to keep that in place?

 

[Newdude]

Regarding that item, could it be a water bond instead of an anode? And if so, I assume I want to keep that in place?

Yes. Upon further review it's a water bond so it stays.

 

[SirNoSplashing]

In it's current setup, yes. So reroute them a little and T it.

Another question if you are able to help - when cementing the diverter valves in place, any concerns with PVC cement going into the valve area? Do people usually remove the guts of the valve during gluing? I highly doubt they did when plumbing my setup. Just wondered what was common practice or if I am overthinking it.

 

[Newdude]

Do people usually remove the guts of the valve during gluing?

It's a good idea for us occasional gluers. You may even be able to wipe any drips out of the important areas for sealing.