Plan to fix PVC threaded joint leak

BullishBear

Well-known member
Sep 17, 2022
83
Austin Texas
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-9)
I got a slow drip leak at the threaded joint that connects the pump's outflow to filter's inflow. I removed the coupling to check and noticed a black tape that shabby runs over the part where both pipes touch each other. Probably its a workaround fix by previous owner, I guess, and wondering do I need to redo that OR use RectorSeal T+2 (OR Oakey Great White?) with a normal Teflon tape and get ride of this black tape (any idea, whats that?). Please suggest the best way to patch this up. Thanks!


1740275339698.jpeg
 
post a wider picture.

You want to start with a high temp union that screws into the pump with an o-ring and build from there.

CMP is one good brand.

1740275908895.png
 
post a wider picture.

You want to start with a high temp union that screws into the pump with an o-ring and build from there.

CMP is one good brand.

View attachment 629243
Appreciate the prompt response. Here is another picture, I don't have anything else for now. I will take note of this but can you please suggest a quick fix for now? Its leaking a lot and had to spend a lot of water last few days to keep up with optimum level.1740276101233.png
 
Appreciate the prompt response. Here is another picture, I don't have anything else for now. I will take note of this but can you please suggest a quick fix for now? Its leaking a lot and had to spend a lot of water last few days to keep up with optimum level.View attachment 629245
There’s no good way to temp fix it unless you can replace the o-ring. You can slather some sealant on it and see if it helps slow it down, but that’s the pressure side and sealant on the outside won’t help much.
 
There’s no good way to temp fix it unless you can replace the o-ring. You can slather some sealant on it and see if it helps slow it down, but that’s the pressure side and sealant on the outside won’t help much.
OK. There is no O-ring in there as of now. Its literally two pipes facing each other without anything in-between and there seem to be a black sticky tape running around over them to seal the tiny gap. I guess it was a workaround and then coupling secures the pipes to join together without any gaps, I guess.
 
Are you sure what you describe as black sticky tape is not a deteriorated O-ring?
 
OK. There is no O-ring in there as of now. Its literally two pipes facing each other without anything in-between and there seem to be a black sticky tape running around over them to seal the tiny gap. I guess it was a workaround and then coupling secures the pipes to join together without any gaps, I guess.
The fitting is designed for use with an o-ring. Are you sure it’s not there? McMaster-Carr has oring replacements if you can measure the size.
 
The fitting is designed for use with an o-ring. Are you sure it’s not there? McMaster-Carr has oring replacements if you can measure the size.
OK, I can measure the diameter and get a o-ring. Does the o-ring go inside the coupling's bottom which would then seal off the tiny space between the pipes when the coupling is threaded snug tight? Does it mean, I don't need to do any other steps (RectorSeal T+2?).
 

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Thank you @JamesW for all the snapshots, I'm able to understand now better. I will look for the part number to find the right size or will measure it out. Definitely need either a O-Ring or T-Gasket to seal this for good.
 
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The exact size of the joint seems to be 2 7/8”. I tore down the existing black tape (seems like a patch fix for missing o-ring/t-gasket). The coupling thread looks good visually. Heading to Home Depot to get a o-ring/t-gasket for the fix.
 

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