Yes, you are correct. I failed to notice that you had said your system is off at night, but I did want you to have a meaningful result. Carry on. Nothing to see here...maxepr1 said:
Phosphates?
- Thread starter maxepr1
- Start date
Alright guys tested the water today,put bleach in 2 days ago to raise my FC TC up but CYA went way down so going to have to work on that now. Dosing pump has been running for 2 days also, still work in progress. Adjusted the ratio of MA to water up some more.
FC 7.9
TC 7.6
CC .3
PH 8.2
Hardness 367
TA 102
CYA 20
Salt 3500
FC 7.9
TC 7.6
CC .3
PH 8.2
Hardness 367
TA 102
CYA 20
Salt 3500
You need to bring the PH down. I would go ahead and lower it to 7.5 or 7.6 right away.
I'm not sure what test kit you are using, but if it is measuring CC by 0.1 or finer then you appear to have a mild problem with CC being too high. One of the finest unit you can measure of CC is fine, even 0.2 is fine if you measure by 0.1s, but 0.3 by 0.1s is marginally too much.
Your CYA level, assuming that number is reliable, is way too low for a SWG pool.
I'm not sure what test kit you are using, but if it is measuring CC by 0.1 or finer then you appear to have a mild problem with CC being too high. One of the finest unit you can measure of CC is fine, even 0.2 is fine if you measure by 0.1s, but 0.3 by 0.1s is marginally too much.
Your CYA level, assuming that number is reliable, is way too low for a SWG pool.
Thanks Jason, this reading is from the pool stores computer testing system. Ran out of CYA have to get more on Monday. PH is already gone in the pool. CYA number I'm shooting for is 60-80 right? I also think my TA is also to high correct? Can't decide on a test kit from TFT? Running low on reagents? Also I think they may be bad? Last years. I can test 3 times and get 3 different readings? Taylor, not a cheapo!
For the start of the pool season it is best to aim for a CYA of 70 to 80, then hope it doesn't drift down below 60 by the end of the season.
Lowering the PH will lower the TA a fair bit, perhaps enough, perhaps it will need more adjusting later. Either way TA is fine for now.
There are several different systems the pool store might have. As a general rule pool store test results are not reliable, but in practice some stores are great, and some are not so good. If they are dipping a test strip and putting that in an electronic reader then don't trust it at all. If they are using vials of liquid in a reader that is much better.
I recommend the TF100 from TFTestKits.net. The Taylor K-2006 is also good. They both use the same chemistry, which is the best currently available.
Lowering the PH will lower the TA a fair bit, perhaps enough, perhaps it will need more adjusting later. Either way TA is fine for now.
There are several different systems the pool store might have. As a general rule pool store test results are not reliable, but in practice some stores are great, and some are not so good. If they are dipping a test strip and putting that in an electronic reader then don't trust it at all. If they are using vials of liquid in a reader that is much better.
I recommend the TF100 from TFTestKits.net. The Taylor K-2006 is also good. They both use the same chemistry, which is the best currently available.
No Jason, premeasured vials. All that has to be done is add water. They use a lab dispenser to put a precise amount of water. Plus there are 2 employees that test. The guy that takes care of me has been the same for 4 years. No kids working here. Will take your advise on the test kit. Thanks
Max,
Before you add any more CYA, please do try to double check that CYA test result. Having CYA come down to 20 from the previous reading of 90 would indicate you replaced 70-80% of your pool water with zero CYA water, which I'm guessing is not the case
I say this, because I would hate to see you adding more CYA to your water, if the previous reading of 90 was in fact valid
Before you add any more CYA, please do try to double check that CYA test result. Having CYA come down to 20 from the previous reading of 90 would indicate you replaced 70-80% of your pool water with zero CYA water, which I'm guessing is not the case
I say this, because I would hate to see you adding more CYA to your water, if the previous reading of 90 was in fact valid
The test systems you see with pre-measured vials are almost always the WaterLink Express. They are quite good for the most part, though as with any system they are sensitive to operator error. The one test they commonly have problems with is the CYA test. They are not usually way off, but they don't have as much precision on the CYA test as they have on the other tests.
Just tested tell me what you think
FC 7.6
TC 7.8
CC 0.2
PH 7.6
CA 349
TA 69
CYA 55
Salt 3200
FC 7.6
TC 7.8
CC 0.2
PH 7.6
CA 349
TA 69
CYA 55
Salt 3200
Looking quite good. You still need to get the CYA level up a bit, I recommend aiming for 80. Other than that your levels look great.
Jason, my FC TC are ok to stay that high for the rest of the swim season? And should I go lower on the PH (7.0) before I start borates?
You will want to dial back the percentage setting on the SWG a little. I didn't mention that because that is an ongoing process. You need to adjust the percentage every week or two and also any time there is a major storm or extra people swimming. I would aim for an FC level of about 5 when measured in the early evening.
You don't need to adjust the PH before adding borates. You do want to adjust your TA before adding borates, but your TA is already fine.
You don't need to adjust the PH before adding borates. You do want to adjust your TA before adding borates, but your TA is already fine.
Hey Jason, over shot the CYA a little!
FC 6.4
TC 6.5
CC 0.1
PH 7.7
CH 500 Heavy Rain
TA 51
CYA 100
Salt 3500
Should I raise TA?
FC 6.4
TC 6.5
CC 0.1
PH 7.7
CH 500 Heavy Rain
TA 51
CYA 100
Salt 3500
Should I raise TA?
Sure, raising the TA is a good idea. Don't go higher than 70. I would aim for mid 60s.