My Pentair TR-60 Triton II that dates back to at least 1995 (I took ownership in 1997) has developed a pinhole leak in one of the bulkhead fittings.
Originally I thought the bulkhead fittings (where the multi-valve delivery and returns are connected) were integral to the tank. Then I discovered that the bulkhead thru-hull is actually a separate fitting, and so I could replace just the fitting.
I see stories about the difficulty of getting the inside-the-tank backside nut loose on the bulkhead. Pentair makes a wrench that costs $150 that would be essentially a one-time use tool. The fittings themselves are $44 each. I know I have at least one damaged lateral that I saw when I had a pool contractor changing the sand in the tank (he did not say anything about it and I didn't realize that should have been replaced). My pressure gauge is damaged by another pool helper dropping the filter basket wrench on it, but despite the shattered face plate, it still works.
Should I just give up on repairing this 20+ year old tank and buy a completely new drop-in TR-60? (Pentair representatives, y'all shush; I already know your answer).
Anyone have experience replacing the bulkhead fittings on a TR-60? I have a 5.5" jaw Channellock (actually named "the Bigazz" by the manufacturer) to get the external threaded union collar off, but I'm worried about that internal nut inside the tank if I choose to repair the existing tank. I'm not thrilled about buying a costly tool or trying to manipulate a 20 lb pipe wrench around all that delicate internal plastic.
With a new tank, my assumption is that I would simply remove the sand from the old tank (either to reuse or replace), swap in the new replacement tank, attach the two bulkhead connections, and be back in business. Other than loading pea gravel and/or sand, is there anything else I would need to do inside the new tank?
Also: their current TR-60 series Pentair offers a "Clear Pro" version. I have enjoyed crystal-clear water with my current tank (thanks to TFP and the SLAM methods). How does "Clear Pro" work? Is this another membrane or barrier that might need servicing or replacement in the future? I'm thinking I would stay with the simple, proven regular version, but also open to recommendations here.
Originally I thought the bulkhead fittings (where the multi-valve delivery and returns are connected) were integral to the tank. Then I discovered that the bulkhead thru-hull is actually a separate fitting, and so I could replace just the fitting.
I see stories about the difficulty of getting the inside-the-tank backside nut loose on the bulkhead. Pentair makes a wrench that costs $150 that would be essentially a one-time use tool. The fittings themselves are $44 each. I know I have at least one damaged lateral that I saw when I had a pool contractor changing the sand in the tank (he did not say anything about it and I didn't realize that should have been replaced). My pressure gauge is damaged by another pool helper dropping the filter basket wrench on it, but despite the shattered face plate, it still works.
Should I just give up on repairing this 20+ year old tank and buy a completely new drop-in TR-60? (Pentair representatives, y'all shush; I already know your answer).
Anyone have experience replacing the bulkhead fittings on a TR-60? I have a 5.5" jaw Channellock (actually named "the Bigazz" by the manufacturer) to get the external threaded union collar off, but I'm worried about that internal nut inside the tank if I choose to repair the existing tank. I'm not thrilled about buying a costly tool or trying to manipulate a 20 lb pipe wrench around all that delicate internal plastic.
With a new tank, my assumption is that I would simply remove the sand from the old tank (either to reuse or replace), swap in the new replacement tank, attach the two bulkhead connections, and be back in business. Other than loading pea gravel and/or sand, is there anything else I would need to do inside the new tank?
Also: their current TR-60 series Pentair offers a "Clear Pro" version. I have enjoyed crystal-clear water with my current tank (thanks to TFP and the SLAM methods). How does "Clear Pro" work? Is this another membrane or barrier that might need servicing or replacement in the future? I'm thinking I would stay with the simple, proven regular version, but also open to recommendations here.
