Pentair pump - crack in basket

[thptrek]

With the cold weather here in Texas it looks like a have small crack in the pool pump basket. I was wondering if I could use a glue or expoxy to fill the crack. I am hoping that I could give a try. If yes, does anyone recommend an epoxy for this job?

If I can't do I just need to replace that whole intake piece? This pump is used for our water features and is not our main pump.

 

[cowboycasey]

It looks like this would do the trick... I would do what one of the reviewers did on his filter, use some kind of reinforcement with it... If this does not work you would need to buy the volute Pentair Pump Parts - INYOPools.com

you would do layers

epoxy in the crack and put together like glue
then epoxy inside and outside along the crack
fiberglass tape
then more epoxy over the tape

let dry 7 days pray and turn on the pump

https://smile.amazon.com/PC-Products-Adhesive-Two-Part-Marine-160114/dp/B008DZJJGU

like this

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Nansheng Fiberglass Cloth Mesh Tape, Weave Reinforced E-Glass Fiber Fabric for Winding Seams Boat Repairing Molding (1" x 98ft): Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

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[Dirk]

That crack is in a good spot, and a bad spot.

The bad: that ridge needs to be smooth and flat and level because your pump lid's o-ring seals to it. Even dirt or small debris can defeat an o-ring under pressure (or suction in this case). A ridge or bump left behind from the repair could compromise the seal. I'm not sure what Casey was suggesting in terms of the fiberglass, but it shouldn't run over the top of that surface. It needs to end up flat and smooth. You might be able to grind it down flat after everything dries.

The good: if your repair doesn't work, it'll be easy to spot. You'll see the air bubbles in the pump's clear lid...

Hope it works!

 

[cowboycasey]

Use the fiberglass on the inside along the crack over epoxy and then more epoxy over the fiberglass, it will strengthen the repair and seal it better.. I wish you could use it on the outside also but I think it may interfere with the lid clamping down, also because the lid clamps down it may fail immediately That epoxy has a 1750 PSI rating so hopefully it holds

@Dirk You are correct, where it seals on the top should be completely flat, if some epoxy comes out you will need to wipe it off so that surface is completely flat

 

[thptrek]

Great ideas and worth a try. I have Dremel so I can make sure the top surface is flat for the gasket to seal. I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

[wireform]

Great ideas and worth a try. I have Dremel so I can make sure the top surface is flat for the gasket to seal. I'll let you know how it turns out.

I wouldn't use a dremmel on the top. Use a ultra smooth small wooden block with fine sand paper to blend the repaired area with the rest of the top sealing surfaces. The dremmel will create a slight dip and not seal.

 

[Dirk]

What wireworm said. ^^^^^

 

[thptrek]

Gotcha, I understand.

 

[cowboycasey]

Just wrote on another thread, if all else fails a ratchet strap will keep the lid closed until you can order a volute

 

[thptrek]

The epoxy was partially successful. The pump will prime and circulate water through the system but I have a lot of air coming in so it is noisy and I'm getting a full flow through the system. I'm going to try to see where the air may be coming from. I'm pretty sure that it from that crack on the top. The gasket may not be making a full seal.

I'll try a little more epoxy on that crack and I'll also look at the ratchet strap to try to apply some pressure on that gasket.

 

[Dirk]

Might be time for a new volute. Fixing it was always kind of a long shot.

(Like that Casey? My word-o-the-day?)

 

[thptrek]

Well, it was a good try but I'm still getting air being pulled in through that basket cover. Going to have to replace that volute. When I order the volute do I need to also replace any seals or such? I would like to order everything I need all at once.

I'm thinking I will need part #14 Seal Plate O ring, #15 Pump Adapter O ring, #16 Diffuser Seal O ring, and #22 pump seal. Does that sound right or do I not need to replace these parts when doing the new volute?

 

[cowboycasey]

I would get new seal kit and SCS seals

 

[Dirk]

Well, up until a few days ago, I didn't even know what a volute was! If you and Casey are not clear on the process and parts, maybe @mas985 can help. He da pump guy.

 

[cowboycasey]

No need for 15 unless it is bad, wont hurt to replace both, one on the front of the pump and 1 on top for the union..

There is a seal kit that will replace all of them but it will come with a crappy #22, that is where you want the salt or SCS seal

 

[mas985]

I don't think the correct terminology is being used here. The pump housing or sometimes called the wet end is made up of several sections, the volute being just one of them. The pump basket is not part of the volute although it is connected to it and sits right in front of the volute. The volute is where the impeller is housed and directs the water flow from the impeller vanes to the pump outlet. On some pumps, you can just replace the pump basket but I don't believe you can with that one. Unfortunately, you may find that the cost of the new housing & seal kit is close to that of a new pump.

 

[Dirk]

Casey made me say it.

 

[Dirk]

Depending on model and year, Inyo shows that as all one piece, which they're calling volute (maybe it is, when the basket housing is part of the volute?). They want $300 for it...

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I just took a guess at the model. Call Inyo direct with your part number to make sure you get the right part. They might be able to help you with the seal kits, too.

 

[mas985]

Technically, they are not using the correct term although they are free to call it whatever they want to. This is what the volute looks like:



The pump basket is not part of the volute.

 

[thptrek]

It really is the pump basket but on this pump the volute and pump basket are all one piece. Think I'll look at pricing a new pump too. It's old and noisy.