Pentair Mastertemp 400, 6 years old

Lummoxer

In The Industry
Jan 15, 2025
3
San Gabriel, CA
My heater routinely registers temperatures approx 10 degrees hotter than actual, and so high limit turns it off before I reach desired temp. This is not a thermistor issue, as I can swap in a brand new OEM thermistor and it might work for a minute or two, but then the temperature jumps back up and shuts off. Weird thing is, if I shut the heater off, switch the two wires on the thermistor (just trade them between the two posts), and fire it back up, the temp will usually be correct, and often will stay correct for ten minutes or so, before walking quickly up to a higher than limit number, and once again the heater shuts off. So, getting the heater up to about 90 degrees is fine, and if I do this wire switch trick 5 or 6 times, I can get it from 90 up to 100 where I want it (I get a few degrees with each wire switch), but am pretty sick of it.
It is not a thermal regulator issue because this behavior existed before I cracked the manifold (overtightened the thermistor when swapping it out), and the new OEM manifold replacement kit I installed came with all new everything, including thermal regulator and high limit switch, thermistor, etc., and the behavior was the same after that repair if I ran the motor at top speed (though a slightly reduced speed would sometimes help keep the temp accurate).
Crazy behavior, so I am guessing it is the control board? What else could it be? I hate swapping parts without knowing, but thinking about biting the bullet on the control board.
Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks,
Paul
 
Test the new thermal regulator and confirm it opens at 120F. We have seen new ones that are bad.
 
Connect a 10K resistor in place of the thermistor sensor. If it reads the temperature as 76F then its the sensor or internal flow, if not then its the board.



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Is the water temp good until the heater fires up?

If yes, it is probably a flow problem.
Good point, and excellent question. No, the water temp is usually not good prior to the heater firing up (90% of the time, it shows the artificially high temp right away, and if not, it does so within ten minutes). As soon as the screen lights up when I hit the spa on button, it shows a temp above the current water temperature.
Nor do I think it could be a plumbing/backflow configuration, as the heater worked correctly for the first 5 years.
The thing that makes me think it is something with the board is the fact that by switching the two thermistor terminals, the temperature corrects itself for a while. Not sure why that works, nor am I sure that has anything at all to do with the board, but at least I don't see it could be the thermal regulator (switching the thermistor wires would obviously not influence the thermal regulator in any way)
I ordered a board and am hoping it works out....not cheap.
Thank you so much for responding!
Paul
 
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As a service person, you should have 10K ohm resistors as part of your toolkit so that you can use them to test circuits that use 10K ohm thermistors for water temperature sensors.

Most Jandy, Hayward and Pentair thermistors are 10k ohm resistor thermistors that follow this chart.

As you can see, a 10k sensor should make a circuit board read the temp at 77 degrees F.

Note 1: Do not operate a heater with the 10k resistor in place.

Just use it to see if the board reads at 77 degrees with the heater not firing.

Note 2: Not all temp sensors are 10k.

For example, a Mastertemp stack flue temp sensor is not a 10k sensor.

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