My pentair heater was working fine the other day, now when turned on I get the code 128 r13. It is opperated through an Easy Touch board. I start the heater, fan turns on, heating light flashes then goes solid, smell the gas, never ignites, heating light flashes again. It tries this 3 times and turns off, and service heater light comes on. I'm handy, but know nothing about heaters, so I'll need it explained. Thank you in advance
Pentair mastertemp 250 error code 128 r13
- Thread starter Hawkeyedave6
- Start date
The codes are normal boot up codes.
Check out the following reference and then post back if you still need more help.
www.troublefreepool.com
I suspect that the igniter is the likely problem. Check the resistance of the igniter. Check for 120 volts going to the igniter.
You can check for water in the combustion chamber by removing one of the bottom manifold bolts to see if water comes out.
You can check the gas pressure at the inlet tap to make sure that it's in range before the heater tries to fire and as it tries to fire.
How old is the heater?
What is the manufacturing date from the sticker with the barcode?
What is the chemistry history of the pool?
Check out the following reference and then post back if you still need more help.
Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
I suspect that the igniter is the likely problem. Check the resistance of the igniter. Check for 120 volts going to the igniter.
You can check for water in the combustion chamber by removing one of the bottom manifold bolts to see if water comes out.
You can check the gas pressure at the inlet tap to make sure that it's in range before the heater tries to fire and as it tries to fire.
How old is the heater?
What is the manufacturing date from the sticker with the barcode?
What is the chemistry history of the pool?
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The codes are normal boot up codes.
Check out the following reference and then post back if you still need more help.
Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading
I suspect that the igniter is the likely problem. Check the resistance of the igniter. Check for 120 volts going to the igniter.
You can check for water in the combustion chamber by removing one of the bottom manifold bolts to see if water comes out.
You can check the gas pressure at the inlet tap to make sure that it's in range before the heater tries to fire and as it tries to fire.
How old is the heater?
What is the manufacturing date from the sticker with the barcode?
What is the chemistry history of the pool?
Manufacturers date 5/18/2012The codes are normal boot up codes.
Check out the following reference and then post back if you still need more help.
Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading
I suspect that the igniter is the likely problem. Check the resistance of the igniter. Check for 120 volts going to the igniter.
You can check for water in the combustion chamber by removing one of the bottom manifold bolts to see if water comes out.
You can check the gas pressure at the inlet tap to make sure that it's in range before the heater tries to fire and as it tries to fire.
How old is the heater?
What is the manufacturing date from the sticker with the barcode?
What is the chemistry history of the pool?
It's a salt water pool. All levels are within range. Only issue I've had is that my pump on low reads 900 psi, set at 2000 rpm, and high 1600 psi set at 3000 rpm. I'll need to look up how to do the other possible issues and reach back out. Thank you for your patience.
Sorry 9 psi and 16 psi. Okay, the igniter was cracked. I replaced it and the heater now fires up, runs for about 1-2 min and shuts down. Service light comes on as does HLS light. Heater continues to restart and shut down. Replace HLS?
Check the thermal regulator.
Make sure that you have enough flow to the heater.
If the thermal regulator and flow are good, check the internal bypass.
You can see the internal bypass by looking in the inlet to see the spring and you can see the plunger disc by looking in the hole where the thermal regulator goes.
The disc is on the top of the wall.
You can remove the HLS to see if it looks ok. Check it with an ohmmeter and put it in hot water to see what temperature it opens at. It should open at 135° F.
Make sure that you have enough flow to the heater.
If the thermal regulator and flow are good, check the internal bypass.
You can see the internal bypass by looking in the inlet to see the spring and you can see the plunger disc by looking in the hole where the thermal regulator goes.
The disc is on the top of the wall.
You can remove the HLS to see if it looks ok. Check it with an ohmmeter and put it in hot water to see what temperature it opens at. It should open at 135° F.
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