Pentair EasyTouch Electrical Confusion

[Enmity]

Hi All,

I am so very, very confused due to some of the manuals provided with the Pentair Easytouch and IntelliFlo pump. Some of the information seems to contradict itself speaking about individual circuits, and despite reading most of the threads on here(yay search), I'm lost!

I will be using the:

Pentair 520593 EasyTouch 4PSC-IC40 Single Body with SCG Integration and IC40 Cell

and the Intelliflo VS Pump.

I have the pump already... deciding where to buy the Easytouch with the SCG.

Here's my confusion.

I can't, for the life of me, understand how they really want my electrical run.

I have a 30 amp 240 circuit running to the equipment from my panel, which I will be changing to GFCI for protection (and code!).

I also have 2 20 amp circuits running to the area, that I planned on using for lighting and other non pool related issues, (and thus would have GFCI receptacles on the line to protect)

Am I completely off base by thinking that I'm supposed to run the 30 amp 220 into the Easytouch first.

Then into one of the provided relays for the filter pump, to my Intelliflo VS?

And the SWG? Connects to the plug on the lower left side, right? 220 needs no rewiring from what I understand?

Then plug my Pentair Color Led Intellibrite 5g (120v) into one of the aux circuits?

From looking at max loads, I believe 30 amps would be enough. I'm not planning on adding anything to the circuit. (no more equipment, if so I'd consider running 6 gauge and going up to 50 amps)

So, in summation...

1) 30 amps need to be GFCI from the house to Easytouch, right?

2) Run the pump off the Easytouch Relay? (which is included, I believe, into the Filter Pump relay) Not directly to the pump or from another circuit (which may prove to be a challenge).

3) I have enough with 30 amps for the 4 pieces of equipment?

4) Light goes in aux, I think I've gotten that much correct, right?

Thank you for the words of wisdom!

 

[danpik]

Does your 220 circuit have a neutral wire in it as well? With out it you can not set up a 120 circuit for lighting. The cable/conduit should have Black, Black (or red), White and Green wires.

 

[Hawk]

You do not use the pump relay in the panel. Wire from your 220 GFCI breaker directly to your pump. Then connect your RS communication cable up to the pump and run back into the Easy Touch and connect to the appropriate connector.

 

[Pool Clown]

You do not use the pump relay in the panel. Wire from your 220 GFCI breaker directly to your pump. Then connect your RS communication cable up to the pump and run back into the Easy Touch and connect to the appropriate connector.

But you would want to connect the ic40 and heater (if used) to the filter pump relay. You want those switched.

 

[Enmity]

Does your 220 circuit have a neutral wire in it as well? With out it you can not set up a 120 circuit for lighting. The cable/conduit should have Black, Black (or red), White and Green wires.

Yup ran an additional wire in the same raceway.

You do not use the pump relay in the panel. Wire from your 220 GFCI breaker directly to your pump. Then connect your RS communication cable up to the pump and run back into the Easy Touch and connect to the appropriate connector.

So i wire the circuit to the pump first, then continue on to the Easytouch to power both on the same circuit?

But you would want to connect the ic40 and heater (if used) to the filter pump relay. You want those switched.

Not directly through the IC 40 port or the transformer in the Easytouch, or the port is just for coms?

 

[Hawk]

You do not use the pump relay in the panel. Wire from your 220 GFCI breaker directly to your pump. Then connect your RS communication cable up to the pump and run back into the Easy Touch and connect to the appropriate connector.

So i wire the circuit to the pump first, then continue on to the Easytouch to power both on the same circuit?

No. The pump is powered directly from the GFCI breaker in the load center. The pump will have (should have) a communication cable that goes from the communication port on the pump to the Easy Touch panel (off hand I think this was labeled the "J20 Com-Port" on the back of the ET panel).
You power the Easy Touch panel itself from it's own breaker (120v or 220v) to the Easy Touch power transformer. That transformer can be wired either 120v or 220v. In my setup I used the 120v wiring for the Easy Touch transformer and powered it with it's own 120v GFCI breaker.

 

[Enmity]

So if I'm understanding this correctly...

30 amp GFCI 220 into the Easytouch Panel.

220 GFCI Breaker INSIDE the Easytouch Panel runs to the pump.

Other breakers for the light, Salt Chlorine Generator. (should also be GFCI?) (Can use 120 [due to having 2 hots, ground, and neutral])?

 

[Hawk]

So if I'm understanding this correctly...

30 amp GFCI 220 into the Easytouch Panel.

Can't answer as to if this enough for YOUR load center based on what you'll have connected.

220 GFCI Breaker INSIDE the Easytouch Panel runs to the pump.

Yes. But remember you have to hook up the RS Comm cable. Did your pump come with one?

Other breakers for the light, Salt Chlorine Generator. (should also be GFCI?) (Can use 120 [due to having 2 hots, ground, and neutral])?

Yes other breakers for whatever you're running. GFCI for any "water touching" items.
Can't answer to if your Chlorine Generator, lights, heater, or whatever, are 120v or 220v
Other answers in red bold above.

 

[Enmity]

Finally things make sense.

I'm running 30 AMP 240 (sometimes I refer to it as 220) to the Panel.

I did receive a cord with the pump. I know that plugs into the specific area for the Intelliflo, to control the pump.

I'll have breakers in the sub panel out to the other items. Seems like I have a plan now.

Thank you!

 

[Hawk]

Not sure if you have a heater, but if you do you can use the pump relay for it. That way you can utilize it and not one of your aux relays.

I'll keep an eye out on this thread if you have any other questions. I just recently did my own install for my Easy Touch panel along with a new VF pump so I've been where you are. The load center manual is not bad, but the programming manual sucks big time.

 

[Enmity]

Yea... The programming will be a beast I hear.

No heater on the pool, but open to adding one later, possibly.

Thanks again!

 

[diyindux]

You don't need to run the heater off a relay. Actually, I wouldn't recommend it. Power the heater off a breaker, then run a pair of wires from the EasyTouch heater control terminals to the fireman's switch in the heater. They recommend 18 gauge min. wire (I used the excess wire I cut off one of the pool lights). Set the heater temp to be much higher than you will want the water temp to be (or to it's max), then set the EasyTouch heater temp to what you want. When the pump comes on, it will check the water temp and if it is low, it will kick on the heater. As mentioned above, make sure that the IC40 transformer is powered off the filter pump relay. Otherwise, the IC40 cell will always be on. The VS pump has it's own internal power switching, but the EasyTouch still switches the relay when the pump is turned on. Ask me how I know!

 

[Hawk]

You don't need to run the heater off a relay. Actually, I wouldn't recommend it. Power the heater off a breaker, then run a pair of wires from the EasyTouch heater control terminals to the fireman's switch in the heater. They recommend 18 gauge min. wire (I used the excess wire I cut off one of the pool lights). Set the heater temp to be much higher than you will want the water temp to be (or to it's max), then set the EasyTouch heater temp to what you want. When the pump comes on, it will check the water temp and if it is low, it will kick on the heater. As mentioned above, make sure that the IC40 transformer is powered off the filter pump relay. Otherwise, the IC40 cell will always be on. The VS pump has it's own internal power switching, but the EasyTouch still switches the relay when the pump is turned on. Ask me how I know!

Since the he does not have a heater, it makes perfect sense to power the cell from the pump relay as you mention. Page 24 of the Easy Touch Load Center manual gives specific information on how to wire the cell using the pump relay.

As for the heater, I can only answer for my system and I ran it off the pump relay (I do not have a cell). I do have a pair of wires running from my Easy Touch (J19 Heater on the PC board) to the control board of the (Mini Max) heater. With the heater powered by the Easy Touch pump relay I no longer have to use any switches on the heater control board. Everything is done by and within the Easy Touch. When the pool pump starts up, the Easy Touch will turn on the (pump) relay which then energizes the Mini Max heater board. Then when the Easy Touch calls for heat (for either pool or spa), based on the temp set in the Easy Touch program, it switches on the thermostat through the two wire hook up (connected to J19 Heater on the ET PC board) to fire the heater . When the pool or spa reaches the max heat temp set in the Easy Touch it then shuts the heat off (not the whole unit, just the call for heat). By wiring like this, it no longer makes a difference where the heater thermostat knobs themselves are adjusted to or the ON/OFF switch on the heater. All heating temps are now fired, on or off, based on the temp sensor for the Easy Touch.

Just to preempt any reply that this is incorrect or not the proper way to hook up, I received this information directly from Pentair support themselves. It works every time and perfectly. I no longer have to touch my heater for anything.

 

[diyindux]

I wonder why they had you wire it that way. The fireman's switch completely kills the heater, so it comes on and off when called for by the EasyTouch. I never touch the heater controls. All adjustments are made at the EasyTouch. It runs on a schedule under the auto setting, and if you want heat when the pump isn't running you just press the filter pump button on the EasyTouch. That kicks everything on until you press it again to turn off. It will the. Shut off the heater and run the pump on a delay to allow the heat exchanger to cool before turning off the pump. While it is on, you can increase or decrease the temperature by using the arrows below the display that are used to navigate the menus when programming.

 

[Hawk]

I wonder why they had you wire it that way. The fireman's switch completely kills the heater, so it comes on and off when called for by the EasyTouch. I never touch the heater controls. All adjustments are made at the EasyTouch. It runs on a schedule under the auto setting, and if you want heat when the pump isn't running you just press the filter pump button on the EasyTouch. That kicks everything on until you press it again to turn off. It will the. Shut off the heater and run the pump on a delay to allow the heat exchanger to cool before turning off the pump. While it is on, you can increase or decrease the temperature by using the arrows below the display that are used to navigate the menus when programming.

A couple questions based on the above reply:

Why buy and install a firemans switch if the pump relay does the same thing?

Why run a "schedule" to run the heater?

Why would you "want heat if the pump isn't running"? I know that you can press the "pump" button and it will turn on the relay, but keep in mind, the heater will not heat without water flow anyways. I just don't see the point in pressing the button without the pump running. I think that you might have a typo above or left some words out in regards to running the heater with the pump off? I know in a SINGLE SPEED PUMP pressing this button will start the pump and do a cool down program if the heater is on, but remember we are talking about a VS or VF pump here and not a single speed. Pressing this button with a VF or VS pump does nothing because that relay is not used for those pumps. Either way, as far as cool down, Pentair heaters do not require a cool down time. If you have a heater (and VS or VF pump) that needs a cool down, you can program a cool down in the pump program.

 

[diyindux]

A couple questions based on the above reply:

Why buy and install a firemans switch if the pump relay does the same thing?

Why run a "schedule" to run the heater?

Why would you "want heat if the pump isn't running"? I know that you can press the "pump" button and it will turn on the relay, but keep in mind, the heater will not heat without water flow anyways. I just don't see the point in pressing the button without the pump running. I think that you might have a typo above or left some words out in regards to running the heater with the pump off? I know in a SINGLE SPEED PUMP pressing this button will start the pump and do a cool down program if the heater is on, but remember we are talking about a VS or VF pump here and not a single speed. Pressing this button with a VF or VS pump does nothing because that relay is not used for those pumps. Either way, as far as cool down, Pentair heaters do not require a cool down time. If you have a heater (and VS or VF pump) that needs a cool down, you can program a cool down in the pump program.

This seems to be getting a little heated, but I'll respond anyway.

In most heaters, the "Fireman's switch" is a circuit in the heater that allows the heater to be shut off instantly in an emergency. Because of how the circuit functions, it also allows for remote control. That is why the EasyTouch controller manual includes the following section:

Connecting the Heater Thermostat
The following installation instructions are for gas heaters and heat pumps with low voltage
thermostats.
To connect the heater thermostat cable plug to the motherboard:
1. Run a two-conductor cable from the heater thermostat area to the low voltage raceway to
the motherboard in the EasyTouch load center.
2. Strip the conductors ¼ in. Insert the wires into the GAS HEATER two-screw terminals (J19)
on the motherboard. For wiring details, refer to “EasyTouch System Wiring Diagram,” on
page 23.
3. At the heater, connect the wires in accordance with heater manufacturer’s instructions. For
older heaters without instructions for remote operation, connect the wires to the Fireman’s
switch connections in series with the thermostat, pressure switch, and other safety
switches.
4. Do NOT disconnect or wire around the thermostat, pressure switch, high limit switch, or
other safety devices.
5. Select the pool or spa thermostat and toggle the heater to that setting.
6. Turn the thermostat for the selected setting to maximum.

Perhaps your heater doesn't include such a circuit.

Regarding the schedule, the heater isn't on a schedule, the filter pump is. And if while the pump is running the water temperature is below the set temp, then the controller fires up the heater.

As for heat when the pump isn't running, if I want to swim at night after the filter pump has run for the day and feel like having the heat on if needed, I just have to push the button for the filter pump. That turns on the pump, salt cell and if needed, the heater. If the filter pump button is not starting up your pump, then something is wrong. The filter pump button controls the filter pump relay and sends a signal to the VS pump to turn on.

With the cool-down, I have a Sta-Rite heater which is a Pentair and although it doesn't call for a cool-down period I feel better using that feature rather than shutting down the flow immediately and letting the water in the hot exchanger coil sit there.

 

[Hawk]

Heated? Not by a long shot. If my reply came across that way, then I apologize. After all, the discussion teaches us and others that theres always more than one way to skin a cat.

 

[CraigMW]

So if I'm understanding this correctly...

30 amp GFCI 220 into the Easytouch Panel.

220 GFCI Breaker INSIDE the Easytouch Panel runs to the pump.

Other breakers for the light, Salt Chlorine Generator. (should also be GFCI?) (Can use 120 [due to having 2 hots, ground, and neutral])?

If you use GFCI breakers INSIDE the EasyTouch panel, then you can power it from a standard 30A 220V breaker. Having the feed to the panel be GFCI protected will not add any additional protection so long as each circuit is protected by working GFCI breakers in the EasyTouch panel. This is the way I have set my EasyTouch 8 up. I was also confused as to why it is necessary to hook up the pump to a 20A 220V GFCI breaker inside the ET8 panel, but have it wired directly and not to my IntelliFlo pump, as the installation manual indicated that was the way to go. If one has a single speed pump, then the ET8 controls it through the pump relay. However, since the ET8 communicates with the IntelliFlo via its RS485 communications cable, it should be directly wired to the breaker, and not switched by the relay. Instead, I have my heater and IntelliChlor switched by that pump relay.

 

[FTC3]

You power the Easy Touch panel itself from it's own breaker (120v or 220v) to the Easy Touch power transformer. That transformer can be wired either 120v or 220v. In my setup I used the 120v wiring for the Easy Touch transformer and powered it with it's own 120v GFCI breaker.

Is there any reason to wire the ET transformer for 120 vs 220 other than to save the breaker space in the panel?

 

[jerryt]

Is there any reason to wire the ET transformer for 120 vs 220 other than to save the breaker space in the panel?

You have the option of 120 or 240, choose the option which suits you the best.