Oversalted. Baby switched my scale from lbs to kg while I wasn't looking. Problem?

[feuGene]

I was weighing salt to add to my pool last night and after a few batches of measurements I noticed that the scale was set to kilograms rather than pounds.

I know the first addition was in pounds, and I know my toddler was playing near there when I stepped away to dump the salt in the pool, and I know he loves to push buttons.

I'm not sure how many measurements were in kilograms. I thought none, but after brushing in the pile last night, and then running the pump all night, I measured this morning and it was at 4400. Even re-did the test just to be sure. I was targeting 3800. Manufacturer's recommendation is 3400.

Do I really need to drain 14% of the water, as suggested by PoolMath? I just put $100 worth of salt, CYA and calcium chloride in there, after we got a solid 8-10 inches of rain, for which I had to draw down my water level twice in 24 hours.

FC=0.2, CC=0, pH=7.4, TA=70, CH=425, NaCL=4400. CYA was at 50 yesterday, but I've since added 104 oz of liquid stabilizer, which per PoolMath should put me just a hair above 70, but I'm out of the CYA test reagent for the moment.

I did put my SWG on "boost mode" just now, after reading that FC level. Will that help consume the salt more quickly?

 

[BasicTek]

Most SWG's will run with more salt than the recommended range. Is there an upper threshold where your SWG will have a problem? If you haven't reached that and the salty tasting water doesn't bother you then it will splash out eventually...

Boost mode will not consume the salt BTW. Only draining/splashout (aka loss of water) will reduce the salt

EDIT: I looked up the IC40 and found 3600 - 4500 ppm (ideal 3600 ppm) on page 16, so you should be fine.

 

[feuGene]

Thanks for taking the time to look that up. Interestingly, in my manual (which I received from the sellers when I bought this house in June), it says 3000-4500 (idea 3400). I wonder if they changed their recommendation over time or what.

Also in my manual it said, "High salt concentration above 4500 ppm may cause excessive corrosion or deterioration to pool equipment and surrounding surfaces in and around the pool." So I'm glad I'm under that number... But then it goes on to explain how to calculate the Saturation Index. According to PoolMath I'm at -0.41 (assuming my CYA addition put me at my target of 70). So, not at the -0.6 problem threshold, but with "Potential to become corrosive to plaster" (PoolMath) and outside of the manual's statement that "A well balanced bool water will have [an SI] between -0.3 and 0.3." Will have to put more thought into how I can get that index up more...

Thanks again.

Most SWG's will run with more salt than the recommended range. Is there an upper threshold where your SWG will have a problem? If you haven't reached that and the salty tasting water doesn't bother you then it will splash out eventually...

Boost mode will not consume the salt BTW. Only draining/splashout (aka loss of water) will reduce the salt

I looked up the IC40 and found 3600 - 4500 ppm (ideal 3600 ppm) on page 16, so you should be fine.

 

[mknauss]

You should use CSI - it is calculated in PoolMath.

Your elevated salt should not be an issue. You get rain in Florida. So you will have some water changeout. You might be able to taste the salt --

Take care.

 

[BasicTek]

FC=0.2

I missed this earlier as I was responding to your questions, but that's way below minimum, have your FC come up to at least 3 target should be 5 per the CYA chart

I'd verify the pool math CSI and PH has the most direct relationship so letting your PH settle at 7.6 would raise your CSI .2 as your CH already looks good. The SWG should cause your PH to rise regularly anyway.

 

[domct203]

With a SWG it is desirable to have a slightly negative CSI to help prevent scale on the SWG cell. I would tweak pH to see if you can get to -0.3 and call it a day.