Added 3 jugs of bleach and we’re at 17.5fc! It’s a little cloudy right now.
Our pool is green and pool store says to replace sand
- Thread starter Smileysjs
- Start date
keep going, you've got this!! You are well on your way to a TFP.
Last night around 7:30 the tc was 17.5. I added a jug of pool essentials 10% liquid chlorine. This morning it’s at 11. So I added another jug of liquid chlorine. It’s not clear but looking lighter than yesterday. You can see the pool robot cord. The pressure gauge is broken. But I can eyeball the return. I backwashed it and it took a good minute before anything came out. Just a little bit of milky looking water came out then turned clear.
- Jul 9, 2016
- 227
- Pool Size
- 24000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
Have you ordered a new gauge yet? I usually get the glycerin filled ones, the needle jumps less on those. I've bought them on Amazon, Lowes, and TFTestkits.net. You will want to get one that read from 0-30 or 0-60. The higher pressure ones are much harder to read and less accurate on pools. I prefer the 0-30 one myself.
Last edited:
- Jul 9, 2016
- 227
- Pool Size
- 24000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
Oh, and pay attention to whether you need a bottom mount gauge or a back mount gauge. And don't forget to use teflon tape.
You are making good progress. Keep checking FC every few hours and topping off as needed. You can get pressure gauges at most hardware stores. Your filter uses a 1/4" back mount pressure gauge. You don't need an oil filled gauge unless you just want one.
If you are able to vacuum the pool in the morning, one thing you can do is bump the chlorine back up to slam level in the evening, let the pump run 30 minutes and then shut the pump off. That will allow the fine algae debris to settle on the pool floor and you can slowly vacuum it up. Backwash after vacuuming if return flow is reduced. Then start filtering again and bring the FC back to slam level. The more debris you get out the faster the water will clear.
If work prevents you from trying this just keep slamming as usual.
If you are able to vacuum the pool in the morning, one thing you can do is bump the chlorine back up to slam level in the evening, let the pump run 30 minutes and then shut the pump off. That will allow the fine algae debris to settle on the pool floor and you can slowly vacuum it up. Backwash after vacuuming if return flow is reduced. Then start filtering again and bring the FC back to slam level. The more debris you get out the faster the water will clear.
If work prevents you from trying this just keep slamming as usual.
Still isn’t clear . Here’s the results:
15.5tc
Ta:150
Ph:7.8
Cya: 45
Found a leak in the pipes. It’s right where it meets another pipe. Would silicone be the best option for that? I’ve been checking pool every 1-2 hours. I’ve been keeping it at or above 16. Backwashed it. I also turned off the pool and vacuumed. I’ve been picking up bugs and dirty sand.
15.5tc
Ta:150
Ph:7.8
Cya: 45
Found a leak in the pipes. It’s right where it meets another pipe. Would silicone be the best option for that? I’ve been checking pool every 1-2 hours. I’ve been keeping it at or above 16. Backwashed it. I also turned off the pool and vacuumed. I’ve been picking up bugs and dirty sand.
- Jul 9, 2016
- 227
- Pool Size
- 24000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
We would rather see your FC (free chlorine) and CC (combined/chloramines) than see a TC (total chlorine). Your chlorine additions should always be based on FC not TC.
Also, don't even test pH when your FC levels are at 10 or greater. The pH test does not give valid results at that high of a chlorine level.
Also, don't even test pH when your FC levels are at 10 or greater. The pH test does not give valid results at that high of a chlorine level.
When I’ve been doing the chlorine test it’s the above number with 0 combined chlorine. It says to add both to get tc.
- Jul 9, 2016
- 227
- Pool Size
- 24000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
Is it a suction side leak or a pressure side leak?
Suction side will pull air into your pump and cause you to possibly lose prime.
Pressure side will cause you to loose pool water.
Silicone sealant will help a suction side leak but not a pressure side leak. If you have a pressure side leak you need to cut out the leaking joint and replace it.
- Jul 9, 2016
- 227
- Pool Size
- 24000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
Ok, true, but when you post "15.5tc" we don't know if that is 15.5FC + 0CC or 11.5FC + 4CC. Just post 15.5 FC.
Did you see my edit about the pH?
The last couple days I’ve only checked the fc and so I wondered if there was a change in the other levels that I should be worried about.
- Jul 9, 2016
- 227
- Pool Size
- 24000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
Can you see the bottom of the deepest part of the pool? If so, it is safe to swim in, if not for safety reasons (drowning recovery), it would be best to wait a while longer.
From your picture, that is a suction side leak, which is pulling air into your pump and decreasing pump/filter effectiveness. Your pool water level is probable at the same level as your pump which is enabling you to maintain prime. You can try to seal that with silicone sealant or even gorilla tape.
It also looks like that union fitting may be cross threaded into your pump. I would probably try disconnecting that union and unscrewing the part that is in the pump. Then wrap a really good layer of Teflon thread tape around the threads and re-install it properly. Then re-connect the union together and see if that fixes your leak.
- Jul 9, 2016
- 227
- Pool Size
- 24000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
Yes, and that is perfectly fine to do. You really only need to check the CC at the end of your slam because that is one of the criteria to end because it shows if your chlorine is actively working on something.
- Jul 9, 2016
- 227
- Pool Size
- 24000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
If someone were on the bottom and in distress, you would be able to see them well enough to retrieve them and render first aid? If you are only seeing the robot as a murky shadow moving along the bottom, then you should probably wait.
You can see the floor and it’s becoming more clearer. I’ve been running the vacuum and it’s only been picking up dirty sand. Last night around 8:30 I tested the fc and it was 20fc. I left it like that and didn’t add anything. This morning I just tested it and it’s at 18fc. When do I stop slamming?
Attachments
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,802
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
The SLAM Process is complete when the water is crystal clear, CC show 0.5 or less, and you pass the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Hang in there! Getting close.