Opening Pool as a First-Timer

[bgoz98]

Out pool was new last summer, so pool company opened it for us. This season, I am tackling it myself. Want to verify some steps and details with the experts:

1. Refilled water to the appropriate level and removed all plugs, etc. Water is crystal clear (guessing this may be due to following the TFP method all last season)!
2. Have netted out all the large debris and I am running the robot for the small stuff currently.
3. Added some liquid chlorine to get to a minimum-ish pool math level and started the pump to get circulation (in recirculation setting).
4. I cleaned out my DE filter today and have to wait until tomorrow to get new DE from the local pool store. Will add tomorrow and then change setting to filter. Do I need to leave the pressure release valve open until water comes out? Or is this step for a different situation?
5. At that point it will be 24-30 hours of the pump running on recirculate setting and I will do my first water test.
6. I am a little confused on the next steps:
- In which order do I react/correct CYA, CC, FC, TA, PH, Salt level, etc?
- At what point in the process do I add salt? (based on the pool math level and I know to add slowly to avoid adding too much)
- After adding salt, how long do I wait to turn on the SWG?

Thanks for advance for the guidance!

 

[Texas Splash]

In which order do I react/correct CYA, CC, FC, TA, PH, Salt level, etc?

Best that you post your numbers here tomorrow so we can help prioritize them for you. The order can vary a bit depending.

 

[Texas Splash]

After adding salt, how long do I wait to turn on the SWG?

You can add salt any time as long as you know you aren't going to go too high. Be sure to test first. If you are simply low on salt but the SWG operates, you can run the SWG like normal now. But if your salt level is below the recommended level for your SWG or it shows an error for salt, let the salt mix for 24 hrs before turning the cell on.

 

[bgoz98]

Got the filter going at lunch today and here are the initial sample results:

FC 2.0
TA 210
CYA 30
PH 7.8
CH 275
Salt 2200

What should I tackle first/in what order? Thanks!

 

[Texas Splash]

I would add some liquid chlorine to get it up to about 5-6 ppm, then also add some salt. I suspect you should have a salt level ~ 3,000 ppm?

The TA is elevated, but you have time to work on that. When the pH hits 8.0, use enough acid in one application to lower the pH to about 7.2. Each time you do that the TA will slowly fall.

 

[Texas Splash]

By the way, since you have a salt pool, we normally recommend a CYA of about 70, but in your area 60 is probably a good starting point. But before you add any stabilizer, consider doing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test if you haven't done one yet after opening. You want to be 100% sure you don't have a heavy organic issue that might require a SLAM Process. If you are sure you have no algae to worry about, then go ahead and increase the CYA to 60. You can add more later if needed.

 

[bgoz98]

By the way, since you have a salt pool, we normally recommend a CYA of about 70, but in your area 60 is probably a good starting point. But before you add any stabilizer, consider doing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test if you haven't done one yet after opening. You want to be 100% sure you don't have a heavy organic issue that might require a SLAM Process. If you are sure you have no algae to worry about, then go ahead and increase the CYA to 60. You can add more later if needed.

Thank you for all of the help. Is algae always visible (plus forgot to mention CC was zero)? If it is better to do the OCLT to be 100%, I will take that step. I understand the value of confirming that before getting CYA up and having to SLAM.

 

[Texas Splash]

Is algae always visible

No it is not. It can be a surprise. Sometimes you notice it when the filter pressure rises really fast. When in doubt, it's good to to the OCLT. If you increase the CYA now and find out later you have to do a SLAM, it will require a higher chlorine level.

 

[bgoz98]

Cleared the OCLT this morning, so will start working on CYA to 60. Is one brand of stabilizer better than others? I have pool stores near me ($$$) and also Walmart/Rural King ($). Willing to pay more if there is a benefit, but wanted to be sure. Also, added salt around noon yesterday and tested this morning (3,000). Am I ok to start my SWC or do I need to wait the full 24 hours for mixing? Thanks!

 

[PoolStored]

Is one brand of stabilizer better than others? I have pool stores near me ($$$) and also Walmart/Rural King ($). Willing to pay more if there is a benefit, but wanted to be sure.

Nope. Only difference I've seen here is how well they dissolve. No functional difference. Buy cheapest 100% CYA.

Also, added salt around noon yesterday and tested this morning (3,000). Am I ok to start my SWC or do I need to wait the full 24 hours for mixing? Thanks!

Wait the 24 hours. Pump on.

 

[bgoz98]

Need some additional advice that is a little off topic. We will be going on vacation and will be away from the house/pool for roughly 2 weeks. What is the best strategy to keep the water somewhat balanced? I am planning on keeping the cover closed the whole time, which (I think) will eliminate the sun's effect on the FC. Assuming that is correct, should I run my salt cell on a minimum level (say 10-20%) or just turn it off entirely? Does the pool cover being closed/having no swimmers also keep the PH at an acceptable level? Any strategy advice here is appreciated.

 

[JodieM]

I keep my pool cover on while I am away on vacation. I have a CYA of 70 and keep my chlorine at 7. Whatever % output that is needed to maintain 7 is where I leave my salt cell. For me this week it’s 50%.
I also reduce my PH to 7.2 before I leave, because with salt cells, the PH generally rises.

 

[PoolStored]

For the week or a few days before you go, leave the cover on, and dial in your SWCG to maintain your FC. When you leave, turn it up 5-10%.

Even if your pH rises, it won't be an issue for a couple weeks...

 

[mknauss]

If covered, much more likely the pH will be lower.

 

[bgoz98]

@mknauss @PoolStored Ok, so I have been doing the recommended testing for while I am gone. I knew I likely needed to run my salt cell at 10% or 20% with the pump running 24/7 (don't want to change the pump run frequency at this point in time). My baseline has been about 4.5 FC. With the cover closed and the SWG on 10%, I lost about .5 FC over a 12 hour period (at night). I'm guessing this means at 20%, I would likely gain around .5 FC over that same period? I don't have the option to go in between those two percentages (that I am aware of). I am going to test the impact at 10% after another 6 hours today, but if it is the same yield, I assume I am better off going with 20% and coming back to elevated levels than the opposite?

Should I turn the cell off for the next 6 hours to let the sun reduce the FC and then go with 20%?

 

[mknauss]

I would set the IC to 20% as you state. No need to let the FC fall. More is fine. You are correct, without automation the IC settings are 2% increments to 10%, then 20%, then 20% increments above that.