No Flow Light Stuck in Solid Red

Bfeltman755

New member
May 18, 2021
3
Fallbrook
I was looking for guidence before I purchase a $400 new PCB main board from my Hayward Aquarite 900 system. I have owned the home for 9 months now so that is about the extend of my pool knowledge and the solid No Flow light has been stuck on for about 4 weeks now. In that 4 weeks I have had 2 pool experts verify the circulation is good and all my pumps and filter are working great. My filter was cleaned 2 weeks ago. I also purchased a brand new salt cell (old one was 6 years old) and working in fair condition. I bought a brand new flow switch and arrows are in the correct direction. I even replaced the Thermister on the main board. I don't see any clear issues with the board like old marks, damage or other odd things. Also the Aquarite 900 does have a green power light and it reads 0 for the salt level. I can send specific pictures if that helps. It would help if I also mentioned the 2 pool professionals were looking at an issue with my pump which they fixed and looked at other things but I thought the No Flow light was related to that so I did not mention that to them :/ Appreciate any support.
 
Thank you RJ. I did take the flow switch out and try to trick the board by manually touching the metal part to the sensor and the no flow did not change at all. I just bought the flow switch so that would mean my old switch and the new one I just bought dont work. Are flow switches typically crappy? I will also try your 2nd suggestion. I'm thinking if I do the 2nd suggestion and the light stays solid red the board must have a problem? Appreciate your time my man!
 
Check the phone jack connector -- I just got a new Calimar SWCG that's very similar (may even be made by the same manufacturer as the Aquarite), and it would only detect flow if I pushed the flow switch plug in, red light coming back on if I let the plug pull back out slightly (but still fully plugged). It looked like the center pins (the ones that are actually used) in the jack on the control unit were a bit lower than the outer ones. I ended up bending a safety pin and carefully working it under/behind the pins in the jack and they popped back up; no problems since.

You can stick a screwdriver in the jack (gently) to see if making contact with the center pins works; it's just a low voltage switching circuit there.
 
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