No Chlorine Generation When Solar Heat On

Thanks for the video, that was helpful. The only thing I can think of is that the SWG flow switch needs more flow rate than what you are getting on solar even though it looks like it is sufficient and the same as without solar. Because the filter pressure rises, flow rate is actually decreasing and it could be just on the edge of working. However, the flow switch should really engage with that much flow rate. Possible problem with the flow switch.

Did this issue start with the installation of the solar system or was it working at some point?

Are there two check valves after the filter? What is that second fitting?
 
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I cleaned it about 2 weeks ago. It is 10PSI on a fresh cleaning and charge with solar off. So it looks like it's gone up about 2PSI since then. But I had the same problem even on a fresh cleaning.

I figured it's on the borderline of adequate and inadequate flow. Why first thing I thought of was if increasing the 1.5" piping to 2" on the return which passes through the salt cell would help with flow rate and possibly put it just over the border of working with solar. There's got to be a couple small tweaks I can make. I was hoping buying a costly new pump was not the solution.

I saw a method for getting out glued PVC that I was going to try so I wouldn't have to replace all the 3-ways and valve body. I could then fully hard plumb the return. I'd then also need to find a 2" return adapter as well since this one is 1.5".

I think the pump is only 1.5" as well, so wasn't sure if changing the rest to 2" would even do anything.
 
Sorry, I added a couple of questions after you posted. Changing to 2" with that little section of piping isn't really going to do much.

Did this issue start with the installation of the solar system or was it working at some point?

Are there two check valves after the filter? What is that second fitting?
 
NP.

So I bought this house 2 years ago with the pool already here. Previous owner had this setup already but I added the SWG last year. I never turned the heat on until this year (I thought it was on but the valve was always in bypass). So when I opened this year, and after quite a bit troubleshooting and comparing scenarios, I got to where we are now.

First is a check valve and the second one (furthest from the filter) is a Zinc Anode to protect the rest of the equipment from salt corrosion.
 
One thing you can try is to bypass a small amount of water around the panels. You can do this manually (turn off actuator) first to try it and then if it works, you can change the cams in the actuator.
 
So to move the actuator, turn the switch on the bottom to the middle position. Unscrew the knob on the top of the handle a little bit, push down on the handle and turn the valve. Forgot to mention that you can also use the toggle switch to move the actuator and then stop it.

Once you have a position that works, you set the cams inside the actuator so it stops at that position.

 
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Awesome! What is the filter pressure? You don't want it to drop too low. Just make sure there is no air coming out of the returns.
 

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So I gave it about an hour and checked again, was inadequate flow. Moved it very slightly until it started generating. Almost halfway! Attached pic is where it is now.. Pressure is 15psi. There is no air on the return at all and still feels strong.
 

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Normally pressure would go down with an increase in bypass. Without bypass, is the filter pressure still 14 PSI?
 
Yes that's exactly what happens. I just bumped the filter and it dropped to 12psi and I was able to lesson the bypass a hair,but it's still close to half bypass. Full bypass and fresh DE in filter and it's 10psi.
 
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