Newbie: Should I clean SWG cell or not?

[BullishBear]

Please find attached the pictures taken today. I have got the property last October and been maintaining the pool. Haven't done SWG cell maintenance thus far and not sure how long before it was cleaned by the previous owners. To my surprise, it looks pretty OK compared to crazy photos I was able to look over web.
Questions:
1. Given the duration should I still clean the SWG cell with MA (1:4 with water) or let it run as is? I read some forum posts that acid cleaning may reduce the cell life and thus need to be done on demand basis. I have been running the pump only for 4 hours and the FC is 0.5-1 ppm which is well below the mark but I kept it to save energy bill and since we are not using the pool due to very cold weather last few weeks. I'm not sure whether SWG is producing low output because of cold water temperature or because it wasn't maintained for long duration. Thoughts?
2. When I removed and replaced the SWG, the pump started running dry for prolonged period and I had to prime the pump (3-4 iterations of topping the pump basket in Recirculate mode. Is this the only way to go or any nice hack people follow to avoid losing the prime when maintaining the SWG cell?
3. Side question: Is it OK to run the pump 4 hours every other day in the winter (when algae growth is slower) the pool is not being used?

 

[Texas Splash]

1. Given the duration should I still clean the SWG cell with MA

Nope. Don't mess with something that looks that clean. You are correct that MA treatments can impact the cell's service life, so if it's not caked-up wiht scale, it's fine.

2. When I removed and replaced the SWG, the pump started running dry for prolonged period and I had to prime the pump

That could be due to your plumbing set-up and/or elevation changes from pool to pump. Did you ensure the pump lid was on tightly? Was the O-ring under that clear lid lubed well with pool lube? All valves open as before?

3. Side question: Is it OK to run the pump 4 hours every other day in the winter (when algae growth is slower) the pool is not being used?

That's fine. Go with what appears reasonable for your area. Run the pump (and SWG) long enough to skim the water's surface, generate FC, and/or mix chemicals. Easy stuff. Enjoy the break in maintenance.

 

[Mdragger88]

You are running your fc too low & leaving an open invitation for algae. One warm day can turn your pool into a green monster with the track you’re on.
Always follow the FC/CYA Levels even in the winter if you don’t close the pool.
If you don’t want to run the pump & swg often to save energy that’s fine but use liquid chlorine to maintain your fc levels above minimum for your cya at all times or you will be spending the $ you saved on liquid chlorine for the SLAM Process.
This can be as simple as dosing to high target once a week due to the low temps & low fc loss. Whatever you do be sure to replenish fc before you broach minimum.
Also be sure you run the pump during freezing temps to avoid freeze damage.
Is your pump a single speed, 2 speed, or variable speed?

 

[BullishBear]

Nope. Don't mess with something that looks that clean. You are correct that MA treatments can impact the cell's service life, so if it's not caked-up wiht scale, it's fine.


That could be due to your plumbing set-up and/or elevation changes from pool to pump. Did you ensure the pump lid was on tightly? Was the O-ring under that clear lid lubed well with pool lube? All valves open as before?


That's fine. Go with what appears reasonable for your area. Run the pump (and SWG) long enough to skim the water's surface, generate FC, and/or mix chemicals. Easy stuff. Enjoy the break in maintenance.

Thank you for your response @Texas Splash !
Regarding SWG cell's state, I ran my pump for 12 hours yesterday night with 60% output. It still produced close to 0.5 ppm. Is this reasonable given the run time was at night and the pool did not have any FC to begin with? I'm trying to rule out any issues with SWG, how to figure it out?
Regarding pool lid, it was tightly closed without any air leaks. The O ring did not have any lube but no ruptures as well. Next time I clean pump basket or prime my pump will definitely apply the lube.

 

[BullishBear]

You are running your fc too low & leaving an open invitation for algae. One warm day can turn your pool into a green monster with the track you’re on.
Always follow the FC/CYA Levels even in the winter if you don’t close the pool.
If you don’t want to run the pump & swg often to save energy that’s fine but use liquid chlorine to maintain your fc levels above minimum for your cya at all times or you will be spending the $ you saved on liquid chlorine for the SLAM Process.
This can be as simple as dosing to high target once a week due to the low temps & low fc loss. Whatever you do be sure to replenish fc before you broach minimum.
Also be sure you run the pump during freezing temps to avoid freeze damage.
Is your pump a single speed, 2 speed, or variable speed?

Thank you for your response @Mdragger88 !
I totally understand now. I started seeing Green traces on the pool side walls! I'm going to pour Liquid Chlorine or general Bleach (which one is preferred?) tomorrow and run the system well as I'm expecting visitors this weekend. I will test the CYA levels first and use PoolMath to figure out the quantity.
Regarding Pump, it is a single speed 2.2 HP motor. And yes, the system has freeze protection setup and it worked well during the Christmas freeze.

 

[Mdragger88]

Liquid chlorine or plain unadulterated bleach (without scent, fabric protection, non splashless, no cloromax) is fine to use.
If you see visible algae you need to do the SLAM Process. A swg cannot overcome an algae problem.

 

[Texas Splash]

Regarding SWG cell's state, I ran my pump for 12 hours yesterday night with 60% output. It still produced close to 0.5 ppm. Is this reasonable given the run time was at night and the pool did not have any FC to begin with? I'm trying to rule out any issues with SWG, how to figure it out?

Since the pool had no FC to begin with, there be an excessive organic demand on the water and your SWG can't keep up - maybe. Before trying to troubleshoot your SWG, I would first increase the FC to about 7 ppm with liquid chlorine (or regular bleach), then perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. My water is still chilly, so yours might be as well, which helps to slow down organic growth. But still good to ensure you pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. If you pass to rule out organics, then you can go back and look at your CYA level (to protect FC from the sun) and/or troubleshoot the SWG's performance.

 

[BullishBear]

@Texas Splash @Mdragger88 I have started the process today, will keep y"all posted soon.

Quick question: At present, I see thin traces of Green Algae in some parts of the pool side wall, steps, between Spa to Pool spillover. The water is not green or cloudy but not sparkling clear either. I balanced pH first and then started semi-SLAM 4 hours back (i.e. 12 ppm instead of 24 given my CYA is 60 at present). Reason being, my nephews and in-laws are visiting us on Friday night for the long weekend. I understand, per SLAM article it's not an overnight process and it can take few days. Given the aforementioned state of my pool and the weekend plan, I want to mitigate as much as possible and as well as give get some time for them to enjoy the pool. I will do OCLT, CC, and visual inspection of algae before concluding the process. But is it OK for kids & adults to use the pool if my FC is maintained between 7-10 ppm even if OCLT/CC/Visual tests are not completely passed?
I just don't want to disappoint the kids but at the same time I don't want to risk their health, may be I'm over stretching or over stressing...

 

[Texas Splash]

But is it OK for kids & adults to use the pool if my FC is maintained between 7-10 ppm

With a CYA of 60, you can have swimmers in the water with an FC up to 24. But if you wish to delay the SLAM and keep the FC a bit lower for the weekend, you can resume the SLAM Process when you're ready. Just remember algae doesn't sleep, so the longer you wait the more it can multiply. Have a nice weekend.

 

[Newdude]

I just don't want to disappoint the kids but at the same time I don't want to risk their health,

Algae, while unsightly, is harmless. But it's the canary in the coal mine and if it's alive, so are the bacteria, viruses and pathogens if any are present.

But.

Once your FC is above minimum and up to or at SLAM FC, it's sanitary. The overwhelming majority of the dangerous stuff is killed very quickly. So feel free swimming between min and SLAM. The CYA buffers the harshness of the higher FC and nobody will ever know.

You also need to be able to see the bottom for swimmer rescue / swimmer safety. It doesn't have to be crystal clear but if you can see bottom, swim away.

 

[BullishBear]

Thank you for the response, fam!

@Texas Splash Sounds like a plan, will follow the same!
@Newdude Good to know the details and eases my mind. Yes, I definitely need to get rid of them in next few days.

@Texas Splash @Mdragger88 @Newdude I have attached the photos (taken 10 hours after adding LC) for your reference! As you can see, the traces of green patches (except for darker one on the wall of Spa/Spillover) are relatively light but I was able to see them develop in the last 10 of this new year i.e. after the freeze worn out. Before I started the process these were similar but little more darker. I scrubbed them a bit before taking the pictures.

Followup questions:
1. I added 2 gals of LC and , as predicted Poolmath, the FC was bumped from 0.5 ppm to 12 ppm just one hour after addition (at around 9 pm ct).
2. I tested FC today morning around 7:30 pm ct and it was 11.5 ppm! I just lost under 1 ppm even with these visual algae presence, any thoughts? FYI, I set the knob to OFF in my Hayward Acquarite panel so I presume SWG is not producing/adding additional chlorine so no additional contribution overnight.
3. I had my pump running all along and per SLAM article I should be running continuously. Given I may have to pause SLAM for weekend usage and then continue what is the best advice for the weekend at least, should the pump keep running or I can give it some break when pausing SLAM?
4. I didn't scrub off the walls yesterday, I did today morning. How often should I do this and without doing this will it delay the breakdown process? Its tiresome scrubbing off walls and floors under water.

 

[Mdragger88]

Scrub/brush/vac as often as you can - daily is recommended during SLAM Process because it breaks up the biofilms that algae form to protect themselves against chlorine, this allows the chlorine to kill the algae more effectively.
That pool looks super cool ! But all those rocks provide plenty of nooks & crannies for algae to hide that need scrubbin’.
After slam is complete (you have passed ALL 3 end of slam criteria) you should aim to scrub those spots quite regularly.
I agree that it can be a pain to try to brush those areas from outside of the pool - that’s why I do my brushing whilst also enjoying the pool - I just use the brush head without the pole or a dish brush (for specialty spots). It takes the chore out of it. You can have the kids help too!
Be sure to run your water features for a couple hours a day during slam so they all get flushed with slam level fc. That shallow cove area looks like it’s circulation would suffer greatly without the waterfall going. Perhaps you could direct another jet towards it to assist with circulation when the waterfall is off.

 

[BullishBear]

Apologies for the delayed update! I wanted to thank y"all for guiding me! We were able to enjoy the Pool right on time and I have successfully completed the SLAM process. Following are the test results taken earlier today. I need to reduce pH and bump up Salt. Otherwise all good!

 

[Newdude]

We were able to enjoy the Pool right on time and I have successfully completed the SLAM process.

WELL done !!!

I need to reduce pH

Any 7 is equally OK. And SWG pools generally prefer the high end of the scale, so it may sit at 7.9 for some time. Mine wants to be 8 with no ill affects so I adjust at 8.2.

 

[Mdragger88]

Lookin good
Your fc is right at target but don’t be afraid to run it a scootch above to give yourself a buffer for environmental circumstances (higher uv day, higher bather load etc.) so you don’t ever broach minimum.
I personally like shooting for 10% of cya, its easy to remember & gives a good buffer between me & minimum.
Also, As the weather warms & uv exposure increases you will likely need to increase cya reaching around 80 in the dog days of the Texas summer to prevent fc loss.

 

[Saturn94]

…I personally like shooting for 10% of cya, its easy to remember & gives a good buffer between me & minimum…

This!!

 

[BullishBear]

@Newdude Noted! Just curious, how do you determine 8.2 pH? I use Taylor K-2006 and the scale ends at 8. I also do acid demand test which takes pH to 7.6-7.7. How can I reverse engineer this insight to figure out the actual pH?

 

[BullishBear]

@Mdragger88 Thank you Sir! Noted, I will bump my SWG output and/or increase pump run time in coming weeks to make sure I always have good buffer on top of the target. And yes, I need to add CYA but I'm still figuring out the subtle leak situation, as soon as that is done I will bump CYA (as it's least favorite chemical to manage!).

 

[Newdude]

Just curious, how do you determine 8.2 pH? I use Taylor K-2006 and the scale ends at 8.

The TF100 comparator block does 8.2. The colors are the same with both using phenol red. (Disregard the yellow water on the right side.)

I also do acid demand test which takes pH to 7.6-7.7. How can I reverse engineer this insight to figure out the actual pH?

I have never done the acid demand test and just use poolmath, but I don't think you can reverse engineer PH.

 

[BullishBear]

@Newdude Thanks for clarifying!