New to TFP, SLAM problem with Cal-hypo cloudiness

[Poolboylolo]

Hi All! Background: we bought our home almost eight years ago with this small fiberglass pool and I feel like every year is a new surprise. I kept finding TFP when I put questions out there and bought the TF-100 right after we opened (late this year, June). After opening our safety cover after a slew of warm days, I knew what we'd find: (dark green). I've had good luck with shocking at the beginning of the season, vacuuming waste by removing the filter and refilling (we have a deep well, but the water is hard for sure). This year was similar. I typically use cal hypo 68% granules to shock and maintain. When my TF-100 kit arrived, I needed to increase my CYA and SLAM for CC >.5. I was able to check the boxes except the perfectly crystal clear aspect. I've had crystal clear and after screwing up by using clarifier last year, I can't get back to it. I buy two new cartridge filters every year and switch them out weekly.

Flash to my going on vacation, where I added two pounds of cal hypo prior, had someone check the pool, and yet in three days the pool was green upon our homecoming.

I've been slamming for 8 days from a starting FC of 0.5 (brushing, testing multiple times a day, water temp is around 81)but my pool is not crystal. On day 6 my OCLT was .5 but the pool wasn't clear so I added an ounce of cal hypo and was able to lose only .5 over the entire day in sun. I've been using the pool math calculator and measuring my granules to maintain. Day 7, the temps picked up to the 90s and my FC began to drop rapidly. The past two days have been a mix of torrential rain and 85 degrees plus (the two photos were only 30 minutes apart!) Not sure what to do...thank you!!
FC: 16
CYA: 30-40
CC: 0
ph: (was 7.4 at start of SLAM)
TA: 150
CH was 326...now 575!!







8,000 gallon fiberglass inground (circa '06?)
Pentair Clean and Clear Cartridge filter system
Upstate NY

 

[Bperry]

Hi All! Background: we bought our home almost eight years ago with this small fiberglass pool and I feel like every year is a new surprise. I kept finding TFP when I put questions out there and bought the TF-100 right after we opened (late this year, June). After opening our safety cover after a slew of warm days, I knew what we'd find: (dark green). I've had good luck with shocking at the beginning of the season, vacuuming waste by removing the filter and refilling (we have a deep well, but the water is hard for sure). This year was similar. I typically use cal hypo 68% granules to shock and maintain. When my TF-100 kit arrived, I needed to increase my CYA and SLAM for CC >.5. I was able to check the boxes except the perfectly crystal clear aspect. I've had crystal clear and after screwing up by using clarifier last year, I can't get back to it. I buy two new cartridge filters every year and switch them out weekly.

Flash to my going on vacation, where I added two pounds of cal hypo prior, had someone check the pool, and yet in three days the pool was green upon our homecoming.

I've been slamming for 8 days from a starting FC of 0.5 (brushing, testing multiple times a day, water temp is around 81)but my pool is not crystal. On day 6 my OCLT was .5 but the pool wasn't clear so I added an ounce of cal hypo and was able to lose only .5 over the entire day in sun. I've been using the pool math calculator and measuring my granules to maintain. Day 7, the temps picked up to the 90s and my FC began to drop rapidly. The past two days have been a mix of torrential rain and 85 degrees plus (the two photos were only 30 minutes apart!) Not sure what to do...thank you!!
FC: 16
CYA: 30-40
CC: 0
ph: (was 7.4 at start of SLAM)
TA: 150
CH was 326...now 575!!

View attachment 596639



View attachment 596632

8,000 gallon fiberglass inground (circa '06?)
Pentair Clean and Clear Cartridge filter system
Upstate NY

You should be slamming with liquid chlorine, not cal hypo. That stuff can make the water cloudy when used in large amounts like for a SLAM. It also increases uour calcium hardness as you’ve discovered.

 

[DrewLG]

Not sure what to do

Welcome to TFP!

From the title of your post, it's clear that you already know the cloudiness is from the cal-hypo. Why not use liquid chlorine instead? With your small pool, it won't take much; even in the summer you'll probably only need about a gallon a week.

 

[Poolboylolo]

Clearly I misinterpreted what to use for SLAM vs maintenance. I have been using the Pool Math calculator religiously and with the cal-hypo drop-down I (erroneously) assumed it was OK to use it for SLAM. I had purchased the cal-hypo at the beginning of the season before going through TFP, and for me, it was .23/oz so it was cost-savings. Four gallons of 12.5% "pool chlorine" is running $70+ on Amazon, the SLAM would have been pricey.

However, knowing that I have increased my calcium in an already challenging hard water region, how can I remedy the clarity issue? I have had to drain a significant amount of water in the past due to chlorine lock from the former owner using tablets, but I would like to avoid it. Further, how many oz of 10% liquid chlorine (this looks like what I can readily purchase at Walmart for a more reasonable price) equal a one pound bag of 68% hypo-cal?

 

[PoolStored]

However, knowing that I have increased my calcium in an already challenging hard water region, how can I remedy the clarity issue?

Follow the SLAM process and use liquid chlorine. Suspend the use of any product with calcium.

I have had to drain a significant amount of water in the past due to chlorine lock from the former owner using tablets, but I would like to avoid it.

No kidding!

Further, how many oz of 10% liquid chlorine (this looks like what I can readily purchase at Walmart for a more reasonable price) equal a one pound bag of 68% hypo-cal?

Use pool math, it will tell you how much chlorine to add to a target FC. I don't know your pool size, so use "effects of adding" in pool math.

You might also consider getting a salt water chlorine generator. Give the price of chlorine, gas and your time lugging jugs...the payback is positive.

 

[Poolboylolo]

Yes, I am definitely done with the hypo cal. Is there hope for water clarity by just continuing to SLAM with liquid chlorine or will I need to replace the water?

 

[PoolStored]

Yes, I am definitely done with the hypo cal. Is there hope for water clarity by just continuing to SLAM with liquid chlorine or will I need to replace the water?

Absolutely. Slam should clear it.

 

[Bperry]

. Four gallons of 12.5% "pool chlorine" is running $70+ on Amazon, the SLAM would have been pricey.

Try home depot, lowes, pinch-a-penny if those are close as well. It used to be $5/gallon but has gone up to around $8 the past couple years

 

[Mdragger88]

Four gallons of 12.5% "pool chlorine" is running $70+ on Amazon,

There’s your trouble-
Buy liquid chlorine locally- much cheaper & fresh.
Around $6 a gallon or so in many places.
ocean state job lot, ace hardware, walmart, lowes, Home Depot etc.
some local pool stores may even carry refillable 2.5 gal jugs. Call around.

 

[Poolboylolo]

Hi all, I've continued slamming and made the switch to liquid chlorine. I am on day 15 and have been allowing my kids to use the pool during the process. I have maintained 0 CCs but continue to see the drop of 2-4 in my FC (SLAM level 16) every 2-4 hours of testing the water. The cloudiness is getting better, but I can actually see small white particulate (assuming dead algae) floating throughout the water. My pressure has barely changed (it's been at 10) but I cleaned my cartridge filter after five days and put in my clean one. How long will it take so that I don't see the haze? I know I elevated the calcium levels to 575 but that doesn't seem egregious from what I am reading here. In addition, I read that I could let my FC drop below 10 and adjust the pH to determine if that is a component. I woke up today to an FC loss of 8 so I tested the pH and it was at least 8.2. While I have everyone here, I included photos of my shallow end (3 ft) and deep end (6ft) to show the cloudiness I included reference objects. Maybe you can tell me what the discoloration is on the stairs, too. The pool has been like that since we purchased the house, just wondering if I can do anything about it.

 

[Mdragger88]

Check your gauge- that it goes to zero when the pump is off. If it doesn’t it’s time to replace it.
If you get the chance (fc 10ppm or below) you can certainly adjust ph down.
Not sure how much that may have to do with the cloudiness as its likely the algae mostly to blame if you’re still having high overnight fc losses.
Keep at the
SLAM Process it does take time. Your shallow end looks quite promising!
As for the steps/stains there’s a few things here to try & help you identify what type they are so you can treat them appropriately after slam is done

Stains in Your Pool

The stained pool is beyond embarrassing. Our in-depth Guide to remove stains in your pool will help you to remove the stains and prevent them in the future.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Poolboylolo]

Thanks so much- yes the gauge returns to 0 immediately and I haven't had a problem this year with filtration (all bands around filters intact, cleaning out well). I adjusted the pH for 7.2 and attached photos are what I'm getting four hours later. I'm seeing more reflected light in the deep end (totally unscientific but I feel like that's when things start to improve). I definitely still see the small particulate floating, in fact I think you can make it out in the shallow image of the steps. I have been vacuuming through the filter during the SLAM but do see some debris through the return jets. Am I better off always vacuuming to waste? With the cartridge that is what I have always done in the past, but obviously there's water loss (and chemical waste) with that.

 

[Poolboylolo]

Also, after treating a pH of 8.2 to bring it to 7.2, it was clearly higher, as I have the following results. I can't really tell the difference between the 7.8 and 7.5.

Thanks so much- yes the gauge returns to 0 immediately and I haven't had a problem this year with filtration (all bands around filters intact, cleaning out well). I adjusted the pH for 7.2 and attached photos are what I'm getting four hours later. I'm seeing more reflected light in the deep end (totally unscientific but I feel like that's when things start to improve). I definitely still see the small particulate floating, in fact I think you can make it out in the shallow image of the steps. I have been vacuuming through the filter during the SLAM but do see some debris through the return jets. Am I better off always vacuuming to waste? With the cartridge that is what I have always done in the past, but obviously there's water loss (and chemical waste) with that.View attachment 598434View attachment 598435

 

[TinFoilHat]

I would call it 7.8.

 

[proavia]

Try using 4 drops of pH reagent instead of 5. Sometimes, that makes the colors easier to match (sometimes not).

 

[sande005]

I would guess it is at about 7.6 or 7.7. That test is hard to discern for all of us. Usual advice is that if you're in the 7's, you are OK. Your TA is pretty high, usually preferred to be in the 60-80 range. It will drive the pH up - hence why your acid add didn't drop pH as far as you planned. Retest TA and then use PoolMath to find how much acid is needed to drive the TA down. Go in steps, not all at once - it and pH go hand in hand, and you don't want to overshoot. Once TA is in range, give the pH a bit (overnight) to settle down, and retest both before you assume you've then got to move that also. Some sources point to TA/pH problems as contributing to cloudiness caused by Cal-hypo. So you may see clearing as you get the TA and pH in better balance.

 

[Poolboylolo]

Ok, my TA is down to 120. I use 31.45% muriatic acid, it would take 80oz to lower the TA 39ppm and knock my pH down by 2.4. Should I try smaller amounts so the pH doesn't dip so drastically?

 

[PoolStored]

Never try to lower TA in one fell swoop.

Do this:
When TA is above 80, then lower pH to 7.4 and let it rise back to 8.0. Continue to do this until TA <= 80.
When TA is between 60-80, STOP lowering pH below 7.8. Let the pH settle between 7.8 and 8.0. 7.8-8.0 is just fine for pH

 

[Poolboylolo]

Got it! I've read conflicting things about the TA- the directions in my kit even indicate that 100-120 is OK for a chlorine, non-SWG pool. I have also seen the 60-80 as you said, so I will go with that.

 

[PoolStored]

directions in my kit even indicate that 100-120 is OK for a chlorine, non-SWG pool.

Directions should say: 100-120 is OK for a chlorine, non-SWG pool that is chlorinated with acidic pucks.